Am I the Pontius Pilate of this CX500?

Thanks fellas!
If it is a little HRD, then it's a subconscious channel....because until I read it in your post I had not heard of Howard Raymond Davies and his motorceecles.
 
Vincent......hmmm...Van Gogh...Price....Minelli....Vaughn....Barbarino....hmmmm....No. Failed modern and ancient history.
 
Radiator cleaned, fins straightened, painted and mounted.

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New hoses

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A fitting with a threaded orifice for a temperature sensor switch for the fan. 190 F / 88 C normally off.

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Fitted in conduit between thermostat and radiator. Tank checked and is clear.

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Not much of a fabricator, so a Cafe Racer Kits radiator cover to dress it up.

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Then started with the electrics. The physical stuff anyway.
Coils back on.

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Spark units under the seat tray.

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A pair of motogadget pin rear turn signals.

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Mofset regulator and M-unit

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an observation

by putting your fan switch AFTER the thermostat you will be delaying the fan from starting with the thermostat only partly open

depriving the engine of the fan in the case of the thermostat sticking partly open or closed

put it in the lower hose (basically where honda has it in the 650 (bottom of the rad)

it should be within the engine circulating system prior to the thermostat

IMO
 
Thanks for the tip. Always welcome.
I'll have to work our where to put it.
Not much room in the lower hose for the fitting I have.
 
have a rad shop solder in a bushing that the switch can screw into in the bottom tank just like honda does in the 650

get a brass drain plug for the rad and tap it for the sensor

tig a bushing into the chrome water pipe and screw the sensor into the chrome water pipe near the rad end

put it in the lower rad hose
 
Basically, fit thermo switch to 'return' side of water flow, it's going to be hotter than 'feed' side. There are smaller ones available but you would have to wire it through a relay to operate fan. Unfortunately it's just too long ago I worked on CX on 'daily' basis
 
650s have the switch right in the bottom of the rad and are bullet proof the switch runs the fan directly and the switch lasts forever as does the fan
 
Carburetor time.

This is just not possible for a first timer without some help. One could say that such a task requires some collaboration.
Mine came in the form of Larry Cargill's book. Cheers mate. And a few others along the way.........

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2 days worth of ultrasonic cleaning and they come up spiff!

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Whilst the ultrasonic was hard at work, I followed some forum advice and softened the otherwise sound intake rubbers. Cheers CX gurus CXPHREAK and murrayf, beezerboy and others too many to mention all.

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Some light sanding...

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...a bit of steel wool....

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...and careful use of very fine drill bits.

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Overflow tubes condition? Check.

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Everything cleaned, prepped, and in order to elude confusion.

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Some spares from a trusted source. Cheers CX guru JC.

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Locking heamostats very handy for separating washers and handling choke spring.

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The slow jets on these are sometimes pressed in. These were screw in type. Lucky me!

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Copper grease on stainless allen head screws. Good tip. Cheers izak from CXforum.

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Assembled and looking nice, inside and out.

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Some Ducati 996 velocity stacks with home made aluminium mounts, which I hope to clean up and retain with grub screws. The filter will be some fine paper or sponge filter in a mesh "cage" held by the rubber shoe.

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I posted this video on the Video forum, but I though I'd post it here also.
I'm making a youtube series on my CX500 build. Every once in a while (not often) I like what I put together.
This is one of them......and best thing, you will not hear my voice once!
Cheers

https://youtu.be/h5OOFtwEOzU
 
Slipstream Cycle Works rear sets installed today.

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Cable a little short. May need to adjust torque arm.

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I also fitted the number plate bracket, rear light and small LED plate lights - all from Cafe Racer Kits.

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I'm slowly fitting all electrical components, then I'l start getting my head around the wiring diagram to incorporate the following...

Battery
M-unit
Starter
Ignition
Charging
Clutch, neutral, brake light switches
Electric fan and control switch
Electronic tacho and speedo (reed sensor)
Oil pressure (electric) and water temp gauges
Lights, indicators horn and controls
Idiot lights
USB charger
With M-unit, no flasher relays, and only need small fuses for the very thin wires, like controls I'm using.

Hope I covered everything........
 
Started to put controls on this weekend. I'm using Motogadget toys...I had a deprived childhood. Opening the little boxes is like Christmas.

Throttle tube first. The Motogadget grips are mounted on a left hand threaded aluminium ring that retains to the bar with 6 grub screws. Getting this ring centred is tricky, but it has a trick.

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The button controls (3 on each side) comes wired, which is threaded through a 5mm hole in the bar and out the end of the bar tube. The other wires coming out the end of the tube are from the bar end turn signals.

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Brake lever assembly with a 17mm master cylinder for the big GSXR brakes. Need to conjure up a bracket and mounting point for the reservoir on the bar.

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Left side. Can't find the lever. It will turn up eventually.

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Motogadget Miniscope for the speedo, odometer, trip counter and tacho. Idiot lights for turn signals, hi beam, battery charge state, and water temp warning. I'll end up with both a warning light and a temp gauge. Planning on putting a T to the thermostat and connecting 2 senders.

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Light mounted, and the mounting point for the twin Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns suddenly appeared to me...the extra hole on the light bracket - one on each side.

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As I mount all the goodies, I'm starting to make a mental "wiring diagram" and it's becoming more simplified....well....in my head at least. I think never having done electrical work before and looking at a wiring diagram is very daunting. I found it best to not think about it until actually doing it.
Well, this is all theoretical and full of conjecture. I'll see how it goes when I have some wire in one hand, a soldering iron in the other, and a home made diagram in front of me.

Oh...and I bent the torque arm as suggested by a CX500forum member, to line up with the actuating cable on the Slipstream cycles rear sets. I'm still waiting for Jarrod from Slipstream Cycles to reply to my emails regarding the mounting of the rear brake light switch. I think I can likely come up with a solution, but it would be prudent to wait to gain from his know how. I'm sure he'll respond sooner or later.

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Are those bar ends direction indicators? I made something similar for the T305 I rebuilt. Even though they work and light up they are not as bright as I would like as I used too high a resistor for them to be really bright. I made them for 13v as That was whgat I measured at battery, but, forgot to take headlight into account. I'll get it right next time ;)
 
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