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Sounds right, then I get confused lol. Your bypassing the switch at the lever, but not sure if that creates another problem. Your bike can turn over and not have spark also....I had that for a bit.
I had a help topic at ngw...this is from that..titled electrical question for spark...
Unless something indicates that there may be a problem with the diode I wouldn't worry about testing it (not that it is particularly difficult to do).
For the engine to start normally you need to have the right handlebar switch assembly plugged in for the kill switch and start button and the left one for the starter override switch and the diode plugged in (plus the solenoid, keyswitch &c). The instruments (or at least the indicator lights that sit between them) would be useful too."
Maybe read through that and see if it helps....I started off pretty rough...
The "Starter Disconnect Switch" is your clutch switch and needs to be closed (short together until you get connectors on them to hook to the clutch switch). The Start/Stop switch (red three-position switch on top of the right handlebar control) needs to be ON (center position) for the ignition to fire. The starter will crank, but the ignition won't fire. Also, either the bike needs to be in neutral or the neutral switch lead grounded (Neutral light on) to crank unless the clutch switch is made up. This is to keep you from starting in gear with the clutch out and the bike taking off - it happens!
BTW, I know of no transistors outside of the regulator and no relays outside of the aux lighting circuit on GL1000. And none of these really have anything to do with cranking or firing the plugs.
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