1983 Honda 750 Nighthawk

As I live and breathe. Rhonda, the old harlot. Miss that bike - if my shit gets together sometime soon then maybe I'll be swinging a leg over another CB750 in the not too distant.
 
There are mate, but you're gonna have to dig thru the thread to find them. Made the pan from steel (I think, might have been aluminium), but had it professionally upholstered. I'll see if I have any photos of the underside - to be honest can't remember if it was glued or riveted.
 
Jimbonaut said:
There are mate, but you're gonna have to dig thru the thread to find them. Made the pan from steel (I think, might have been aluminium), but had it professionally upholstered. I'll see if I have any photos of the underside - to be honest can't remember if it was glued or riveted.
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Went through and found it. Somewhere on page 34-36 ... unfortunately only a couple pics. With a diff type tank you didnt need the front piece I made and looks like you simply didnt spend too much time on it.

What did you do to fasten it to the frame? The flatbar you welded near the hoop is your rear support, I assume.
 
Haha well that’s certainly one way to put it I guess. Spent plenty of time on it, at least all the time it needed anyway. Nope, not the same tank. Guess I’m not your guy


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Jimbonaut said:
Haha well that’s certainly one way to put it I guess. Spent plenty of time on it, at least all the time it needed anyway. Nope, not the same tank. Guess I’m not your guy


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Click to expand...

lol, i didn't mean it that way, i just meant in terms of other aspects of that build that got more pictures shared compared to only 2 for the seat pan.
My 18 gauge took a while to bend properly, so i can imagine 16 gauge definitely took some time.
 
I riveted a tongue to the front of the pan to secure it, and - once the seat had been upholstered - installed 2 rivnuts at the back so I could bolt into the pan through the flatbar support across the hoop.
 
Jimbonaut said:
I riveted a tongue to the front of the pan to secure it, and - once the seat had been upholstered - installed 2 rivnuts at the back so I could bolt into the pan through the flatbar support across the hoop.
Click to expand...

Nice. I got in touch with the guy you used. They sure do some awesome upholstery work. Too bad they're all the way in Montreal so shipping back and forth might be pricey.

If I could to this again, I think aluminum would have been best, using something like dimple dies to add rigidity and done.

Buuuuuut I'm too far in it with the steel pan now lol
 
Thoughts on running these bolts? I'd like to run stainless, but they do have a significantly lower tensile strenght than some of their other non-stainless offerings (70,000 vs 170,000).
That said, Google shows me shear strength is about 50% of tensile strength ..... so 35,000 psi PER BOLT still seems plenty enough for this application

Where i'm a bit unclear, is that this is such a long bolt, it could experience shear forces on BOTH sides of the hub, potentially slightly different forces as well, since no brake caliper is 100% identical in performance.

The bolts i need are 125mm, so i'm leaning toward 130mm, cut down to 125mm, to ensure i have max thread engagement. The 120mm would leave about 4.5 mm of threads

130mm is just over 5" so it's definitely a long bolt.
bolts.JPG
 
more than adequate. these bolts will mostly see shear forces.
 
So I decided to build a little "frame" to stiffen this up, and the end result is a sturdy and possibly the most over complicated sest pan lol.

To be fair, it didnt take me that long, was fun to build, and will be 100% hidden so wont take away from the looks. It did add an additional 1.5lbs though.

The thin stuff is a bit tricky to weld with a stick welder. It was good practice for me!

Again ... for anyone reading this in the future: just do a 16 gauge pan or fiberglas and be done with it.


20200610_211155.jpg


20200613_194310.jpg
 
I hope you don't end up feeling that substantial frame when you're an hour in the saddle?
Maybe a few beads rolled into the 18gauge would've stiffened it up enough? It worked on my 3mm alluminium seat pan I knocked up.
 
Yup, that thing is built to last for sure. And the bends in that pan look great mate, nicely done.
 
Maritime said:
Use a layer of rhe floor mat puzzle foam cut and fit all around that frame and you should be fine.
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Yup. This is exactly what my base layer is. Those floor puzzles mats my tenant threw out. Once those are in place the frame is "level" as it is the same height as those mats. Then proper foam on top and you ain't gonna know what's underneath
 
NoRiders said:
I hope you don't end up feeling that substantial frame when you're an hour in the saddle?
Maybe a few beads rolled into the 18gauge would've stiffened it up enough? It worked on my 3mm alluminium seat pan I knocked up.
Click to expand...

Definitely. I just did not have a way to do that or know anyone locally that does.
 
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