Candy red flake Sporty Tins

[3DogNate]

Here is a tank and fender set I did for my buddy Kieran's Sportster chop.

 

[SONICJK]

Holy tires batman!
Paint looks good

 

[3DogNate]

Holy tires batman!
Paint looks good

Yeah, this thing has serious wheels and tires... Motor is gonna pull near 120hp too... I also designed and me and a buddy machined the triple trees for the front end... GSXR forks and a Fat Boy wheel needed a wider fork spacing. "Built... Not Bought!"

 

[3DogNate]

My buddy declared his bike finished today... (Minus temp headers while waiting for his real exhaust to be fabricated)

 

[o1marc]

Yeah, this thing has serious wheels and tires... Motor is gonna pull near 120hp too... I also designed and me and a buddy machined the triple trees for the front end... GSXR forks and a Fat Boy wheel needed a wider fork spacing. "Built... Not Bought!"

How big is the motor? I'd like to see the dyno sheet before I believe you'll ever get 120hp out of that motor.

 

[3DogNate]

More like 110-115ish... It'll get on the Dyno for a tune when the permanent exhaust arrives. The shop that did the motor work is pretty well known for consistently hitting that mark. If the guy doing the carb tuning does his job well it should be about as much as can be squeezed out if a sporty motor without going to major extremes.

I'll pick his brain for details... A lot of $ in that top end...

 

[o1marc]

What size motor are you running? Check out this forum and you'll see no one is getting 120 out of one. 110 is realistic if you have a 1250 with work. I'd like to see 120 out my aluminum twin carb Sputhe 1327 but won't be realistically disappointed if it doesn't.
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12

 

[bradj]

Haha yea to get big hp you gotta pay a guy to take out the head gaskets and keep the motor for a year plus. god damit o1marc your a empty pair of boots

paint looks rad as always

 

[LazloH]

plenty of people out there with dynos to prove 110-120 with the 1250 big bore kit and work.

I think they run head gaskets too.

 

[o1marc]

Haha yea to get big hp you gotta pay a guy to take out the head gaskets and keep the motor for a year plus. god damit o1marc your a empty pair of boots

paint looks rad as always

I love your clueless replies. I can't still come up with a reason for your personal attacks on me, insane jealousy. You really don't have a clue to what you are talking about. BTW, how is your bike coming? Oh ya, you gave up , quitter. ;D

 

[3DogNate]

plenty of people out there with dynos to prove 110-120 with the 1250 big bore kit and work.

I think they run head gaskets too.

His cylinders, pistons, rods, valves, cams are all aftermarket performance parts and the heads are ported properly... He's running a gasket as well I think he even had to modify the engine case to accommodate the new top end schtuff.

 

[LazloH]

dont worry Nate.. 01marc is just jealous cause his engine makes 0 HP right now.

 

[bradj]

Yea but its worth 180 thousand dollars

 

[3DogNate]

Y'all are killin' me...

 

[irk miller]

That paint job is badass and has to be worth at least 20hp.

 

[JRK5892]

that sucker came out sick, i do have to say, 120hp is a bit out there. I build HD motors and with those short pipes there is flat out no way, unless he is running a 30shot... really bad ass bike for sure but man pushing 120hp out of a sporty motor is really really hard to do, exp with the crank work that is req to handle it... where did he have the forks re valved for the new weight? i would love to run a set of GSXR forks on a new dyna (they are both 49mm) but all my suspesion guru buddies tell me it would be a deathtrap without re valving them... i dont have much exp with inverted forks other than seal/spring swaps, so i am not sure... really love the fatboy wheels man, they look beefy as shit on there. very good looking build, super clean, but i think you are gettin fed a bit of a story on the motor, granted that does not take away from the build, but i have built some pretty wild sporty 1200c motors in the past and 110 is amazing hp numbers out of them, granted if he does it right and has someone like WFO larry do the valves, ports and then brass guides and the whole shabang, axel cylinders he may have that chance to see around upper teens on TQ. even on the monster 11:1 compression builds they see around 112hp, still killer numbers but not the unicorn 120 that everyone wants to see now. most builds take them from 80-88 he would have to swap cases and everything to get over that... being that those are factory heads/jugs no way he can get the bore he needs out of it... even using buell heads would give him more than working the stock heads on that bike. just some ideas for him, a 2-1 would be a must! he needs to let that motor scavenge to pull the pressure he needs. please do not let this sound like i am taking away from the build, cause i would rip it in a heartbeat, but seems like a bit of a fishing story is being added to the excitement of completing the build. if he does have a motor builder that can do that out of stock blocks though i have customers that would be very intrested in sending motors out for work and dyno ... would love to know abotu the front suspension i have a GSXR front end in the shop that came off a st bob when he could not find a shop to valve it for under $500, racetech offered but it was just out of his $$$ so he had me swap him back to stock and left me the front end!

 

[3DogNate]

that sucker came out sick, i do have to say, 120hp is a bit out there. I build HD motors and with those short pipes there is flat out no way, unless he is running a 30shot... really bad ass bike for sure but man pushing 120hp out of a sporty motor is really really hard to do, exp with the crank work that is req to handle it... where did he have the forks re valved for the new weight? i would love to run a set of GSXR forks on a new dyna (they are both 49mm) but all my suspesion guru buddies tell me it would be a deathtrap without re valving them... i dont have much exp with inverted forks other than seal/spring swaps, so i am not sure... really love the fatboy wheels man, they look beefy as shit on there. very good looking build, super clean, but i think you are gettin fed a bit of a story on the motor, granted that does not take away from the build, but i have built some pretty wild sporty 1200c motors in the past and 110 is amazing hp numbers out of them, granted if he does it right and has someone like WFO larry do the valves, ports and then brass guides and the whole shabang, axel cylinders he may have that chance to see around upper teens on TQ. even on the monster 11:1 compression builds they see around 112hp, still killer numbers but not the unicorn 120 that everyone wants to see now. most builds take them from 80-88 he would have to swap cases and everything to get over that... being that those are factory heads/jugs no way he can get the bore he needs out of it... even using buell heads would give him more than working the stock heads on that bike. just some ideas for him, a 2-1 would be a must! he needs to let that motor scavenge to pull the pressure he needs. please do not let this sound like i am taking away from the build, cause i would rip it in a heartbeat, but seems like a bit of a fishing story is being added to the excitement of completing the build. if he does have a motor builder that can do that out of stock blocks though i have customers that would be very intrested in sending motors out for work and dyno ... would love to know abotu the front suspension i have a GSXR front end in the shop that came off a st bob when he could not find a shop to valve it for under $500, racetech offered but it was just out of his $$$ so he had me swap him back to stock and left me the front end!

He's hoping to to break 110 on the Dyno. It is a 1250 kit on there... I know he spent a small fortune on the top end. It will get on the Dyno in the not too distant future. He is getting a custom stainless exhaust made for it... That's taking a while to get scheduled up. Dyno after that, I'll get the numbers... (Near 120 was my words btw his were the more realistic 110ish)

The GSXR front end is working out great for him. He just did his first 500 miles this weekend. Those forks are handling the weight like a champ, not squishy... The custom triple clamps we made for it made for spot on fitting of the fat boy wheel.

 

[JRK5892]

1250 even with 11:1 is going to be really tough to get near that 110, but hell it is just a number, what matters is the seat of the pants, that sucker is narrower and lighter than most HD, so just breaking into the 100 area is going to make that thing so much fun to ride... i tiptoe the 100/100 marker on my bike... and i took it all the way down to the crank... i would HIGHLY SUGEST that if he has not done his crank he tears it back down and does it, i ahve seen so many cranks go out of phase it would blow your mind! also he will need to upgrade to a Timpkin bearing, unless he is show of that 110 marker than he can get away with a lefty bearing and save about $100

Key is to find a good tuner, IMO Valley racing is the best in the busn so we drive 2 hours to them every time...

on mine i went from a 88 to a 95", Welded & trued crank, lefty bearing, Heads by WFOLarry, andrews 37 cams, Andrew's 30T power pulley, 70t rear pulley, barnett clutch spring, tapered pushrods, flat top pistons, 25* injectors, Ported and polished throttle body, lockhart oil cooler, 98HP and 103TQ

even the last 107 was built with accel jugs saw 110/122 and that built was loaded

the 124 in my buddies street glide does run off bottle... but here is an idea what it takes to break into the 120/30's then with bottle the 155's... A custom 2-1 has been built since them so it has to go back for dyno again... this build is about as good as it gets as far as HD motors go, Nails reliable, top dollar items... just an awesome motor
Engine:

S&S 124" cylinders
S&S Crank
SE 110" heads milled .050 and ported by Larrys Motorcycle Machine = 11:1 compression
Cases bored and clearanced by Larrys Motorcycle Machine (Stock cases matching numbers)
T-Man 662-2 gear drive cams
S&S Cam gears
SE billet roller rockers
SE tapered adjustable pushrods
SE rocker supports
SE Billet cam plate
Zippers 60mm Throttle body
Zippers NADS nitrous backing plate adds a very safe 20hp automatically through the ECU at a predetermined RPM and MPH...NO USER ERROR
Zippers Thundermax ECU
SE compensator
SE automatic chain adjuster
AIM lockup clutch with 480lb spring

just one other aspect... i would highly sugest that he at least call racetech... or better yet Howard at Motorcyclemetal.com
Howard is my go to for brake/suspension questions, he is flat out the best in the busn. He will be able to cover the dangers of that front end without re working the internals... again i do not want this to seem as i am taking anything away for the bike build at all, cause i really dig it... but a simple 5 min conversation will not hurt him at all. Howard is a good guy and really knows his shit... if you have a min check out his site, he has some bad ass next level shit on there

 

[fury413rb]

1250 even with 11:1 is going to be really tough to get near that 110, but hell it is just a number, what matters is the seat of the pants, that sucker is narrower and lighter than most HD, so just breaking into the 100 area is going to make that thing so much fun to ride... i tiptoe the 100/100 marker on my bike... and i took it all the way down to the crank... i would HIGHLY SUGEST that if he has not done his crank he tears it back down and does it, i ahve seen so many cranks go out of phase it would blow your mind! also he will need to upgrade to a Timpkin bearing, unless he is show of that 110 marker than he can get away with a lefty bearing and save about $100

Key is to find a good tuner, IMO Valley racing is the best in the busn so we drive 2 hours to them every time...

on mine i went from a 88 to a 95", Welded & trued crank, lefty bearing, Heads by WFOLarry, andrews 37 cams, Andrew's 30T power pulley, 70t rear pulley, barnett clutch spring, tapered pushrods, flat top pistons, 25* injectors, Ported and polished throttle body, lockhart oil cooler, 98HP and 103TQ

even the last 107 was built with accel jugs saw 110/122 and that built was loaded

the 124 in my buddies street glide does run off bottle... but here is an idea what it takes to break into the 120/30's then with bottle the 155's... A custom 2-1 has been built since them so it has to go back for dyno again... this build is about as good as it gets as far as HD motors go, Nails reliable, top dollar items... just an awesome motor
Engine:

S&S 124" cylinders
S&S Crank
SE 110" heads milled .050 and ported by Larrys Motorcycle Machine = 11:1 compression
Cases bored and clearanced by Larrys Motorcycle Machine (Stock cases matching numbers)
T-Man 662-2 gear drive cams
S&S Cam gears
SE billet roller rockers
SE tapered adjustable pushrods
SE rocker supports
SE Billet cam plate
Zippers 60mm Throttle body
Zippers NADS nitrous backing plate adds a very safe 20hp automatically through the ECU at a predetermined RPM and MPH...NO USER ERROR
Zippers Thundermax ECU
SE compensator
SE automatic chain adjuster
AIM lockup clutch with 480lb spring

just one other aspect... i would highly sugest that he at least call racetech... or better yet Howard at Motorcyclemetal.com
Howard is my go to for brake/suspension questions, he is flat out the best in the busn. He will be able to cover the dangers of that front end without re working the internals... again i do not want this to seem as i am taking anything away for the bike build at all, cause i really dig it... but a simple 5 min conversation will not hurt him at all. Howard is a good guy and really knows his shit... if you have a min check out his site, he has some bad ass next level shit on there

sounds like a cool build at 124" and thats a long way from the 1250cc the op mentioned. 2,032cc ftw

 

[High On Octane]

I really like the build and paint, but I just don't understand this fad of big fat obese tires, especially on the front. I guess it'd be fine for a bar hopper, but I would think that it'd ride like crap in the twisties. That fat of a tire on the front is going to make for some slow turning.