CB Home Brew 836%
- Thread starter MCR
- Start date
very cool lookin bike!
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
Very clean scoot, sir. I can dig it.
Cafe Redneck
Been Around the Block
Sweet bike!!! you should post the complete build.
MCR
"Don't wait for your ship to come in" Sheene
Cheers Tim, spot on....the oil lines run from the shallow sump / pump direct to the CR oil cooler and back to the tank. The reason I've used the lines in this way instead of from the filter housing to cooler and back, which is neater (some would say) is to increase the oil volume via the lines / cooler instead of increasing the tank size...and to cool the oil of course.
If you take a look at the walk about video it shows the lines, cooler routing more clearly. You will see that due to the pressure build up in the tank, Ive fitted a pressure equalising catch tank with drain off tap.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnrjUw_ObRE
If you take a look at the walk about video it shows the lines, cooler routing more clearly. You will see that due to the pressure build up in the tank, Ive fitted a pressure equalising catch tank with drain off tap.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnrjUw_ObRE
MCR
"Don't wait for your ship to come in" Sheene
No, pressure is fine...aprox 10LB per 10k RPM and resting at 20LB at tickover. With a good return flow.
The small tank would be a problem with pressure build up if I hadnt come up with the pressure catch tank.
What particular problems would you have invisaged?
The small tank would be a problem with pressure build up if I hadnt come up with the pressure catch tank.
What particular problems would you have invisaged?
MatthiasSalzburg
Been Around the Block
Amazing build. Thanks for sharing.
MCR
"Don't wait for your ship to come in" Sheene
Cafe Redneck,
You asked for it. What follows is a summary of the build as I have not compiled all the pics, receipts and generally not got my shit together enough to record all the work I've done...it's hard enough getting the pass from her indoors to work in my Man Cave at the best of times, let alone record what I'm doing. You know what it's like, you site back and decide on a plan, execute it, fuck it up, do it again and then sit back with a tin or two...thats the way I work anyway.
I am sure to have forgoten snippets of info, I need questions to prompt my ageing swead:
Ok, this is the bottom end rebuilt with new chains and paintwork, also fitted oil guage from Carpy:
New 836cc pistons, pins and reamed oilways:
Top end rebuilt with new valves and flowed ports (not polished bad bad to polish ports) pots painted and baked in the oven, don't tell the wife:
Pistons were a steel from a company in Japan £80.00GBP and V Good quality:
Forks trail mounted - CB750FD forks / Norton Roadholder springs:
Rear end and tank mocked up, although shocks will later be changed for CB900FD type to give plus 35mm extra ride ht. Battery tray buttoned up and painted, cut the light side mount off as it looked shit:
Engine mounted and wiring mocked up. Carbs rebuilt and decked out with cones from Steal Dragon. Acer coils were a git to mount. Option one oil tank and lines fitted along with some knackered old wheels to guage lines etc:
More will follow, need another tin and photobucket needs re-loading.
You asked for it. What follows is a summary of the build as I have not compiled all the pics, receipts and generally not got my shit together enough to record all the work I've done...it's hard enough getting the pass from her indoors to work in my Man Cave at the best of times, let alone record what I'm doing. You know what it's like, you site back and decide on a plan, execute it, fuck it up, do it again and then sit back with a tin or two...thats the way I work anyway.
I am sure to have forgoten snippets of info, I need questions to prompt my ageing swead:
Ok, this is the bottom end rebuilt with new chains and paintwork, also fitted oil guage from Carpy:
New 836cc pistons, pins and reamed oilways:
Top end rebuilt with new valves and flowed ports (not polished bad bad to polish ports) pots painted and baked in the oven, don't tell the wife:
Pistons were a steel from a company in Japan £80.00GBP and V Good quality:
Forks trail mounted - CB750FD forks / Norton Roadholder springs:
Rear end and tank mocked up, although shocks will later be changed for CB900FD type to give plus 35mm extra ride ht. Battery tray buttoned up and painted, cut the light side mount off as it looked shit:
Engine mounted and wiring mocked up. Carbs rebuilt and decked out with cones from Steal Dragon. Acer coils were a git to mount. Option one oil tank and lines fitted along with some knackered old wheels to guage lines etc:
More will follow, need another tin and photobucket needs re-loading.
MCR
"Don't wait for your ship to come in" Sheene
Ok Chaps and Chapets,
I thought the only way I would be able to logically and methodically list my bike build history would be to list out the spec and add pics / details as I go:
Flowed F1 head with replacement valves & springs: Standard F1 cam as the F2 cam would'nt work with the new flat profile pistons. By the way compression measures in at 148psi per pot, cold..still running in. Obligatory consumables replaced such as cam and primary chains, clutch and seals.
Modified oil ways - CR race oil cooler - hand built oil tank - Antig catch / breather tank with drain tap - braded lines:
Keihin CR29 race carburetors: Initially rebuilt the original carbs (K6) and fitted alu bell mouths from Steal Draggon, decided on race carbs to tap into the higher cc's. and reliability. Comes with choke but never use it, they run very rich primary system, just hold the throttle open to 2K for 2 mins before she ticks over at 1.5K.
Pazon electronic ignition & Accel 3-ohms High performance coils. : She starts first kick every time and doesn't miss a beat. Standard NGK-DR8ES plugs (not R type). Ram air filters...keeps the shit out and over run popping to a minnimum.
Venhill quick action throttle. (home made cables) 975mm nipple ctr to ctr.: Was using Bonnie (74) type but carbs bogged down and when hot the CR's tend to be slow to close off, so quick action twin pull was needed.
Yoshimura replica exhaust - by 'CARPY' - USA: Fantastic sound with very good breathability, perfect with the overbore and carbs. Watch out for the weld quality, I had to reinforce a weld seem on the collector...good value though.
Modified swing arm, sort of: The frame is an F1 1976, the swing arm for this model is designed with a different offset to accept the rear disc hub i.e. narrower. The drum brake hub fitted, being wider, needed a corresponding swing arm so I used one from a K5/6. no mods required, just fitted new bushes and seals. Unnessesary brackets cut off prior to painting.
Twin disc modification: CB500F1 discs / CB900FD forks / cb750F callipers - machined right hand disc base to accept speedo rotor and machined up calliper spacer brackets. Lockwired and fitted Goodridge race brake lines and CB400 master cyl.
Modified rear brake hub: Brass vented & meshed, pull rod inverted.
Norton roadholder external fork springs: Reduced in length by 75mm and held in place over stanchions by hand machined alu cups. Fork oil volume and viscocity reduced. Alu fork brace, modified to fit over spring cups.
CB750FD rear shocks: Needed an extra 35mm ride ht.
CB750A / DID aluminium & stainless rebuilt wheels - 17" & 19": Had to have alu wheels to compliment tanks. New bearings and SS spokes, tyres from the US as I wanted the 'Spifires', perfect wall ht for rear.
Tarozzi rear sets : Modified spacing and home made linkage...rubbers wear out quickly though, probably make and fit alu knurled over sleaves.
Dresda (ex race) petrol tank - Tunnel modified by another (my alu welding is crap) two 80mm frame support arms welded to support tank 2/3rds down support tube and rubber clad tube welded in to support end of tank. Home made tank strap - my old 70's jeans belt, didnt fit me anyway (obviously shrunk).
Single Brit pet cock mounted to rear ctr, with glass high flow filter.
Tried a set of adjustable ace bars but settled on a steeper angle static set which are also narrower.
Home made seat base: Purchased with a project but modified mounting plate and painted graphite silver alu and fitted rear light and home made plate brkt.
Home made wiring loom: Utilising original regulator and rectifier. Battery is under seat mounted and is only for sparks and lights. Removed starter motor to keep battery size down. Under tank ign switch and HD toggle kill switch. I am thinking of fitting a Boyer Power Box, no need for reg', rec' or battery then.
Rebuilt the clocks: Used black skulls faces overlays. Turns out that the tacho was off a 550F1..bollocks, apparently I was doing 9,000rpm at 60mph. Changed it over for a K7 tacho and speedo after striping them and refurbing. Modified clocks brkt i.e. 40 degree bend and reduced metal content.
Norton alu mudguard: Modified and mounted to CB fork mounts.
Lengthened side stand: Found, modified and fitted.
Manx race screen by Unity Equipe: Modified it with race fairing clips for quick release, night riding. Have fitted an original 69 Bonnie headlamp also, with ameter.
Will add a video of the late night first start up soon, boy did I look nervous and boy did she sound sweet....leaked oil from alternator case though.
Sory about spelling, cant find checker.
"A purposeful street Cafe Racer, built to emulate 60's and 70's performance bikes, absolutely no bling, just raw aluminium and power".
I thought the only way I would be able to logically and methodically list my bike build history would be to list out the spec and add pics / details as I go:
Flowed F1 head with replacement valves & springs: Standard F1 cam as the F2 cam would'nt work with the new flat profile pistons. By the way compression measures in at 148psi per pot, cold..still running in. Obligatory consumables replaced such as cam and primary chains, clutch and seals.
Modified oil ways - CR race oil cooler - hand built oil tank - Antig catch / breather tank with drain tap - braded lines:
Keihin CR29 race carburetors: Initially rebuilt the original carbs (K6) and fitted alu bell mouths from Steal Draggon, decided on race carbs to tap into the higher cc's. and reliability. Comes with choke but never use it, they run very rich primary system, just hold the throttle open to 2K for 2 mins before she ticks over at 1.5K.
Pazon electronic ignition & Accel 3-ohms High performance coils. : She starts first kick every time and doesn't miss a beat. Standard NGK-DR8ES plugs (not R type). Ram air filters...keeps the shit out and over run popping to a minnimum.
Venhill quick action throttle. (home made cables) 975mm nipple ctr to ctr.: Was using Bonnie (74) type but carbs bogged down and when hot the CR's tend to be slow to close off, so quick action twin pull was needed.
Yoshimura replica exhaust - by 'CARPY' - USA: Fantastic sound with very good breathability, perfect with the overbore and carbs. Watch out for the weld quality, I had to reinforce a weld seem on the collector...good value though.
Modified swing arm, sort of: The frame is an F1 1976, the swing arm for this model is designed with a different offset to accept the rear disc hub i.e. narrower. The drum brake hub fitted, being wider, needed a corresponding swing arm so I used one from a K5/6. no mods required, just fitted new bushes and seals. Unnessesary brackets cut off prior to painting.
Twin disc modification: CB500F1 discs / CB900FD forks / cb750F callipers - machined right hand disc base to accept speedo rotor and machined up calliper spacer brackets. Lockwired and fitted Goodridge race brake lines and CB400 master cyl.
Modified rear brake hub: Brass vented & meshed, pull rod inverted.
Norton roadholder external fork springs: Reduced in length by 75mm and held in place over stanchions by hand machined alu cups. Fork oil volume and viscocity reduced. Alu fork brace, modified to fit over spring cups.
CB750FD rear shocks: Needed an extra 35mm ride ht.
CB750A / DID aluminium & stainless rebuilt wheels - 17" & 19": Had to have alu wheels to compliment tanks. New bearings and SS spokes, tyres from the US as I wanted the 'Spifires', perfect wall ht for rear.
Tarozzi rear sets : Modified spacing and home made linkage...rubbers wear out quickly though, probably make and fit alu knurled over sleaves.
Dresda (ex race) petrol tank - Tunnel modified by another (my alu welding is crap) two 80mm frame support arms welded to support tank 2/3rds down support tube and rubber clad tube welded in to support end of tank. Home made tank strap - my old 70's jeans belt, didnt fit me anyway (obviously shrunk).
Single Brit pet cock mounted to rear ctr, with glass high flow filter.
Tried a set of adjustable ace bars but settled on a steeper angle static set which are also narrower.
Home made seat base: Purchased with a project but modified mounting plate and painted graphite silver alu and fitted rear light and home made plate brkt.
Home made wiring loom: Utilising original regulator and rectifier. Battery is under seat mounted and is only for sparks and lights. Removed starter motor to keep battery size down. Under tank ign switch and HD toggle kill switch. I am thinking of fitting a Boyer Power Box, no need for reg', rec' or battery then.
Rebuilt the clocks: Used black skulls faces overlays. Turns out that the tacho was off a 550F1..bollocks, apparently I was doing 9,000rpm at 60mph. Changed it over for a K7 tacho and speedo after striping them and refurbing. Modified clocks brkt i.e. 40 degree bend and reduced metal content.
Norton alu mudguard: Modified and mounted to CB fork mounts.
Lengthened side stand: Found, modified and fitted.
Manx race screen by Unity Equipe: Modified it with race fairing clips for quick release, night riding. Have fitted an original 69 Bonnie headlamp also, with ameter.
Will add a video of the late night first start up soon, boy did I look nervous and boy did she sound sweet....leaked oil from alternator case though.
Sory about spelling, cant find checker.
"A purposeful street Cafe Racer, built to emulate 60's and 70's performance bikes, absolutely no bling, just raw aluminium and power".
