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I don't know how you feel about it but you could always cut the filters lightly shorter and re-glue the end cap back onto the filters to kind of angle them out of the way of the frame. I know it sounds like a ghetto chop idea but if done cleanly and I'm sure you could with the skills that you have shown so far i think you could make it look pretty good.
good idea but it wouldn't help on the CB200. There is literally about 3/4 inch space between the carb inlet and the middle frame support. There is just not enough room for this 45 degree angle to clear it because the frame piece is right there. I almost need a 60-90 degree angled POD filter to make it work, or else some sort of "s" shaped adaptor to go between the POD and the carb so that it can take an immediate jog to the side to clear the frame.
Uni pod filters fit because they are somewhat flexible but they will rub against the frame. Otherwise you could use maybe some radiator hose and make an airbox. And the hard way would be to cut and reinforce the frame to make room for kn filters.
Uni pod filters fit because they are somewhat flexible but they will rub against the frame. Otherwise you could use maybe some radiator hose and make an airbox. And the hard way would be to cut and reinforce the frame to make room for kn filters.
thought about cutting into the frame but decided against. Might have to check out some radiator tubing to see if that will work. As far as the UNI filters, I would assume you have to go with the angled ones?
Yes I believe that's the one. I am running stock filters and I believe that's the correct size to fit them. So if you are running stock filters as well they should fit.
uhhh, so after 6 months of waiting and waiting for my frame to be finished, I finally got it back. Please refer to the pictures on page 6. Anyways, the rear wheel hits the fender that was welded on so it was sent back to fabricator. Says its supposed to be done soon. In the meantime, I took a picture of all the parts laying around in my garage for this build and my cb360.
I had a tough time getting some POD filters to clear the center frame support. I tried K&N 20 degree angled PODs and I also tried Briggs Animal Air filters with 20 degree angles. Neither would clear it. Then I picked up some UNI filters with 20 degree angles and they sorta work. You can wedge them in there and the filters are bent. It works, but just not to my satisfaction. I don't like the idea that the filters are wedged in. So-- I picked up some 1 1/4" diameter stainless steel tube and cut two 3 inch segments. Then I went on ebay and purchased a foot of high temp black silicone turbo intake tubing and cut two 3 inch segments. The stainless tube fits right inside the silicone tube. I left about 1/2" of silicone tubing hanging past the stainless on one end- which leaves the other end having stainless hanging out 1/2" past silicone. Confused yet? Well, that leaves stainless tubing on one end that I can clamp down the UNI filter onto and it leaves silicone tubing on the other end that I could slide over the carb intake and clamp down. Voila- 3" extended UNI pod filters that clear the center brace.
I also did the wiring. I was having a lot of problems with the headlight cutting in and out and random lights not working. Turns out the starter button had a short in it. I am using kick only so I basically removed the entire starting system including button on the right controls. Now the headlight will be on all the time once you turn the key over. I also started hiding the wiring underneath the seat pan in a nice little hidden tray. Used a 3/4" rubber grommet to route the main harness up inside the tray. Am getting ready to order a ballistic 4 cell battery pack and hopefully will start this bad boy up in the next few weeks.
Also dealt with rear wheel clearance issue. The original fender pan that my welder made only gave me 1/2" of wheel clearance. I sent it back for re-working. Upon return, I still only had about 1 3/4" clearance. With the shocks on firmest settings, it would probably be OK but I wasn't willing to accept that. I dissassembled the shocks and used some 3/4" long aluminum stand-offs to act as a shock limiter. Now my shocks will completely bottom out at about 1 1/2" travel , still leaving some room for about 1/4" clearance.
I have not started the bike yet so I don't know how it will run. I am using stock pipes. I am thinking that the jetting won't be too far off because using that extra 3 inches of extended tubing between carb and POD is going to restrict things a bit.
long overdue update here:
Bike is nearly finished. Just need to mount up some turn signals in the rear and wire the rear tail lights. Otherwise its done. Oh, and I have to either glue some foam seat padding on, otherwise I might decide to lay up a fiberglass seat pan and have it covered. Have not decided yet.
It runs pretty well- I need to tweak the carbs a little here or there but otherwise it runs nicely. I am probably going to sell it. Any takers? Once it is completely finished, I will get some better quality images and will formally post for sale here.
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