CB350 Cam chain tensioner

El_capitan

El_capitan

Go Packers!
Has anyone ever tried these? I'm in need of a replacement soon. I'm. Weighing my options..

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=251107806767&index=4&nav=WATCHING&nid=75668613822
 
I would highly recommend the KA tensioner from bore tech. It's a single peice unit that replaces all the pulley shit. All you need to reuse is the metal pin insert. Less to go wrong. That's what I'm using on every one of my 350's.
 
I've been looking at that KA setup as well.. Do you have to change the camchain as well? How long do those KA units last?
 
The KA's are apparently pretty bullet proof from what I hear. You don't NEED to change the chain but I would put on a new heavy duty one....wait I do always put on a heavy duty one. lol.
 
legendary_rider said:
I would highly recommend the KA tensioner from bore tech. It's a single peice unit that replaces all the pulley shit. All you need to reuse is the metal pin insert. Less to go wrong. That's what I'm using on every one of my 350's.
Click to expand...

Don't mean to threadjack :D. I'm shopping for new tensioner wheels as well and the KA tensioner looks like a better option. I was wondering about what is reused. I've misplaced one of the two plastic pieces (#10 on fiche) that is used in combination with the metal pin insert (#8+9) I assume you are talking about. Any insight on this?

Fiche- http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb350-super-sport-350-k2-usa_model431/partslist/E++06.html#results
 
legendary_rider said:
All you have to reuse is the fat metal pin that goes in the KA tensioner hole. All the rest I threw away.
Click to expand...

Not to bring this back from the dead, but do you know if all you need is the fat metal pin? Do you also need the little retainer pieces for each end of the fat pin? I ask because I lost one of those damn things... :mad:
 
Crap. Yeah you need those. You can get them from "bikebandit" though or order from dealer. They're not cheap for what they are. Something like $12 a piece. All you should need is the fat pin and those 2 rubber thingies. I actually opened a couple motors that were running without them but figured better safe than sorry. Honda must have put them in there for a reason.
 
legendary_rider said:
Crap. Yeah you need those. You can get them from "bikebandit" though or order from dealer. They're not cheap for what they are. Something like $12 a piece. All you should need is the fat pin and those 2 rubber thingies. I actually opened a couple motors that were running without them but figured better safe than sorry. Honda must have put them in there for a reason.
Click to expand...

You know now that you mention it, I am not certain both were there when i opening it up. I had just assumed they were, but that is very possible. I'm being lazy - have the part number or a link handy where I can pick one up? Thanks.
 
personally I wasn't too impressed with Ka, seemed to wear quicker than expected.
Good for a race motor operating at 10~12,000rpm, not so good for street (get about 2-1/2 seasons on race 350)
 
crazypj said:
personally I wasn't too impressed with Ka, seemed to wear quicker than expected.
Good for a race motor operating at 10~12,000rpm, not so good for street (get about 2-1/2 seasons on race 350)
Click to expand...

Really? So you think its not the way to go for a strictly street-driven machine?
 
The original design is fine to normal redline, the rubber breaks up when you have load reversals from 10k +
I would get the rollers
 
crazypj said:
The original design is fine to normal redline, the rubber breaks up when you have load reversals from 10k +
I would get the rollers
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. What are your thoughts on this replacement roller set? http://www.ebay.com/itm/TENSIONER-SET-for-CB350-CL350-SL350-CAM-CHAIN-TENSIONER-PA6G-polyamide-CNC-/251150316102?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a79b9b246
 
I thought someone on here was making them as well?
Looks like the 'sprocket' one has needle roller bearing in it, if the plain one has needles as well it will easily outlast the originals plus have less friction than slipper tensioner.
I would go for it if I had any 350's (been looking for a way to convert 360's to roller tensioner)
 
crazypj said:
I thought someone on here was making them as well?
Looks like the 'sprocket' one has needle roller bearing in it, if the plain one has needles as well it will easily outlast the originals plus have less friction than slipper tensioner.
I would go for it if I had any 350's (been looking for a way to convert 360's to roller tensioner)
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat here. Got an SL350 that I can find the lower roller for, but the upper has been a pain. I guess I should look at the dealer? Or is the guy that makes them still around?
 
This is the seller from Poland that made the polyamide roller wheels but he hasn't had any for sale recently. I have a pair and they're excellent quality although I haven't used them yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TENSIONER-SET-CB750-K0-K8-F0-F1-CAM-CHAIN-TENSIONER-PA6G-polyamide-CNC-/251212237391
 
crazypj said:
I thought someone on here was making them as well?
Looks like the 'sprocket' one has needle roller bearing in it, if the plain one has needles as well it will easily outlast the originals plus have less friction than slipper tensioner.
I would go for it if I had any 350's (been looking for a way to convert 360's to roller tensioner)
Click to expand...

And I'm trying to convert a couple of small race CBs from rollers to slipper for better cam control. Rollers are great for the street but not so good on the race track. I had two break up going down the main straight at Phillip Island causing engine stoppage and very bent valves and snapped rocker arms.

For the street I'd like to try those new plastic rollers or just fit stock OEM rubber rollers.
 
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