CB350 Steampunk Frankenstein Cafe thing called Isabel

on the back of good decisions idea, a porthole with a glass or lexan, like a divers helmet would look the biz on the sprocket cover.
 
Wood or leather grips.
Leather seat for sure.
Copper bell? Wood rims?!
And springs, springs everywhere!

Links of builds from a nearby bicycle shop:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3606/4558696198_6aa74d9b78_o.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5106/5635457017_a4a6382e09_o.jpg
 
jay_kent said:
Going to vintage up the electricals with cloth housings?

Yep, when I find some! Any ideas for places to purchase such things?

sinbad85 said:
the new tank emblems.........did u make them on an english wheel?

English Wheel? I'll have to google that... I used my girlfriends towball (not a euphemism ;)) and a hammer. Did I mention all the wrong tools I have for this job?

n0regret5 said:
btw I hope you don't mind but I'm gonna post this thread over on customfighters, they'd love it.

By all means, please do!

CrescentSon said:
For the steel bits I'd do a patination on them

That's brilliant! Thanks mate, I've been clear-coating the rusty bits I've done, but obviously that kills the feel. Are you saying boiling a rusty pieve of metal in tea will halt the oxidisation and make the rust a permanent non-corrosive finish? I always wondered how they did that. Will definitely look into this more...

Bozz said:
Also, the fork lowers look like they need something. One of the few places where the same finish extends across a joint.

Very, very good point, I didn't even notice that! I like the idea of extra leather in places too. This might be the place for it. Cheers!

jay_kent said:
on the back of good decisions idea, a porthole with a glass or lexan, like a divers helmet would look the biz on the sprocket cover.

Gold! I love it. I'll definitely look into giving that a try.
 
makegooddecisions said:
1) Copper oil and gas lines. Do it. I am on my build.

Brilliant! I'd love it. But that would involve modifying the petcock and carbs to suit some kind of screw up arrangement would it not? Does fuel react with copper at all? Given you want to keep it a secret, feel free to PM me with your adice3 in this one. I love the idea, just not sure how to go about achieving it!

makegooddecisions said:
3) Cut away material on your sprocket cover so you can see the sprocket turning.

See above. Great idea!

makegooddecisions said:
4) Anodized chain and sprockets. I'm not sure if copper is available, but gold should be easy enough.

Heh, I have a gold 520 chain and new sprockets in the draw ready to go on as soon as I get my rear bearing retainer collar delivered...

makegooddecisions said:
5) If you have the funds, get a dry clutch. It's exposed, and sounds great too.

Somewhat beyond my technical and budgetry contraints ATM... but worth keeping in mind.

makegooddecisions said:
6) Get one of those old style megaphone horns.

Definitely on the to do list.

makegooddecisions said:

That is just beautiful. I think I'm going to have to give up now... mine will never look that great. That is awesome. You're right, I NEED copper tubing... any advice on how to do this from anyone would make me a very happy man!
 
Noddy78 said:
Yeah, I see your point as far as the more modern stuff goes. The indicators are definitely due to be replaced, I just haven't found a suitable candidate yet, though I like the copper tube and LED idea. Another fellow over at Hondatwins mocked up a concept for indicators for me that I'm very fond of, I just need to find the right bits.

fc4d7ee6.jpg

Curious, those look like towel bar holders or faucet parts? Again, I've got to say it, this build looks amazing, you've got me going steampunk google mad, and although 90% of the motorcycles I don't really like, your's I LOVE, already way better than your inspiration pic! I hope you aren't planing on doing your tank / fenders like the inspiration, looks ugly to me. But, it's your bike, obviously do what you want, but if you don't mind ideas, my 2 cents, copper tank, old english leather bobber seat, maybe some old shotgun style engraving on the cases with pheasants and shit! :) Oh and maybe a big old phonograph horn sticking out the back! Can't wait to see more of this build, keep up the great work!
 
I certainly don't mind anyone's 2c! Christ, I'm on a budget, send me all the 2c you have! ;)

The tank and fenders are planning to stay as per the latest pics. Roughly polished steel and clear-coated. The concept pic was just a mock up of a more 'brushed' metal finish I was envisaging, but once I took to the tank with an angle grinder (aha! the RIGHT tool!) I liked the slightly more polished/aeronautical look. So that's how it's staying.

There's definitely more leather to come...
 
At first I thougt whatever, to each their own, I guess. Then after going through the pictures, I went from whatever to THIS IS FLIPPEN AWESOME!!! Can't wait to see more.
 
i have been seriously thinking about an over the top steampunk based on an early single shaft drive bmw. after carbon is done of course(the distant future) glad to see im not the only one intrigued by the possabilities of this genre.
 
the vast majority of the steampunk bikes on google (the russian ones, Mikheal Smolyanov) are NOT real, they are digital creations. that makes this one way better.
 
Great job. Just a random thought, but how about some sort of leather gaiters on the front forks...obviously it would be a stretch to make leather accordion boots/gaiters, but something to tone down those "modern" looking forks.

Looking forward to seeing how this evolves...
 
Noddy78 said:
That's brilliant! Thanks mate, I've been clear-coating the rusty bits I've done, but obviously that kills the feel. Are you saying boiling a rusty piece of metal in tea will halt the oxidization and make the rust a permanent non-corrosive finish? I always wondered how they did that. Will definitely look into this more...

There is a bit more to it than that, but yeah. The traditions and methods involved span over a thousand years, so there are many methods. Most involve inducing rust in a controlled manner, followed by halting and stabilizing the rust, and there is usually a top coating for extra measure. Most commonly that is a wax of some kind.

For your purposes either start with natural rust or induce the rust with hydrochloric acid, boil in tea. I would still clear coat just to be thorough. Just clearing rust won't create a maintainable patina. The oxidization is still happening under the clear. It will eventually slough off. The tea halts that reaction with the tannins. Modern rust converters are mostly industrial grade tannic acid.

There are more complex ways to get different colors. If you feel a little braver and want a nice chocolate brown the favored method at followingtheironbrush.org is as follows.

Vinegar 250 ml
Water 125 ml
Salt 5 grams
Copper Sulfate 1.5 grams
and 5 grams of liver of sulfur. ( Potassium polysulfide )

Clean the steel with a bit of alcohol (medical not consumable ;) ) and dry. The oil on your hands can affect the evenness of the rust, so glove up. Brush on the recipe above, and hang the part in a open air environment (outside cause liver sulfur smells like rotting eggs). Allow to hang 24 hrs, an brush on a second coat and give it another 24 hrs. Repeat until you're happy with the color. Each day you can maintain the evenness of the rust by LIGHTLY brushing with a toothbrush if desired. When you have what you want boil the piece in a neutralizing bath (baking soda and h20) for several minutes. You can also add a tea boil prior to the soda bath to alter the color further.

Different steels will react differently, so experiment a bit. This would be marginally ineffective on chrome I would think. There are countless methods out there as well so look around a bit. Have fun, and play safe.

-Daniel
 
While on the topic of patina, we saw this little beauty cruising on the desert playa at Burning man a couple of years ago.

snail_art_car_sallaway_700-copy1.jpg


Here's the link to the patina phase of the project but the build log is amazing unto itself.

Here's a link to a Sculpt Nouveau's youtube channel. This company supplies kits to patina metal and the videos are basically how to use their products. They are a special effects company that does movie props. So if you're into that kinda thing here's their other side Brick in the Yard

http://youtu.be/4Hz4JxxNEVw

As for cloth covered wire here's a couple of options
http://youngchoppers.com/parts_eyr_clothwire.shtml
http://www.magnetoparts.com/wire.htm
http://www.riwire.com/Catalogs/sup/pages/wire.htm
 
Wow!
Yet again I get a crazy idea for my next build and find done here better than I could ever imagine! Keep up the good work, can't wait to see this one progress.
 
Noddy78 said:
Thanks for the kind words lads. I managed to get my custom switches made up today...

g35mY.jpg

farking woah. detaildetaildetail.
amazing!
 
simply superb, you have gone into some amazing detail.
you have defiantly inspired me for my next project, great to see something different.
will keep my eyes peeled for progress..
 
I don't need to say anything, all the comments above speak for themselves.
Im stoked for how this is gonna turn out!
 
i really dig the old register keys as switch heads....i wouldnt have thought of that. have you thought about a small copper knife switch and victorian doorbell button for switches and a hidden keyless "on" switch like digitalguarddog? im using a single circuit push button key fob for my newest project. have you thought about making a tank? ive been thinking about two riveted copper tanks (cylinders) with a sightglass on one (and crossover) to look like a period steam water tank, on either side of the frame toprail, which i plan to replace with a curved piece holed to look like a i-beam. as for rims, look at some old locomotive wheels, there are rims around that with some rivits and paint would look a lot like those...would be cool
 
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