Eastwood Welders

J-Rod10

Active Member
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Got a chance to play with the PrimeWeld today.

Superior to Eastwood in every way. The pulse is super nice on aluminum. Can keep tungsten sharp with it, rather than it balling up. Start and stop amps are nice, along with being able to set the time it stays at the start amperage. Say I'm welding at 40 amps, I can start at 10 amps, and keep it there for five seconds before bumping up to 40.

Flex head CK torch is very nice.
 

SONICJK

Reminds me of...me No, I'm sure of it. I hate him
J-Rod10 said:
And, after four faithful years, my Tig200 AC/DC has shit the bed. Like it just lost all power. It'll arc, but won't create a puddle in anything. Weird.

Going to give the Primeweld 225X a go. As little as I use it, I can't hardly justify a $2K+ Miller.

https://primeweld.com/products/primeweld-tig225x-225-amp-igbt-ac-dc-tig-stick-welder-with-pulse-ck17-flex-torch-and-cable-3-year-warranty
I'd bet you it's the same caps that went bad in mine.
Since you already replaced it it can't hurt to tinker with it.
Pull the boards out and look at all the caps and solder joints. Likely you'll see an exploded cap or a burned joint.
 

J-Rod10

Active Member
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SONIC. said:
I'd bet you it's the same caps that went bad in mine.
Since you already replaced it it can't hurt to tinker with it.
Pull the boards out and look at all the caps and solder joints. Likely you'll see an exploded cap or a burned joint.
Will do. I e-mailed Eastwood, asked if they repaired them, or had certified repair centers. They e-mailed me back earlier this week, said if I could find out the issue, they'd sell me the parts.
 

J-Rod10

Active Member
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And, I just remembered how much I hate electronics.


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

J-Rod10

Active Member
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Quick glance. That doesn't seem to look right.

Any idea, Sonic, if that is right, or not?


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

teazer

Active Member
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I have one and now you have me wandering what all that stuff does.

What is the advantage of using a foot pedal rather than the trigger on the gun and if it;s start current, why does that matter? I'm a newbie to TIG and I sure don't know how to get the best out of the equipment.
 

J-Rod10

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
teazer said:
I have one and now you have me wandering what all that stuff does.

What is the advantage of using a foot pedal rather than the trigger on the gun and if it;s start current, why does that matter? I'm a newbie to TIG and I sure don't know how to get the best out of the equipment.
What welder do you have? The Eastwood?
 

teazer

Active Member
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Yes. Eastwood TIG200 and as a beginner to TIG I have enough trouble holding the torch and the filler rod without trying to get my feet in on the act. I assume that when I pull the trigger, I get pre-flow and then full current but I have no idea if I should start with a lower current off the pedal to strike and arc or just go for it.

I need to go to welding school but my welding school doesn't have any TIG classes coming up.
 

J-Rod10

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
teazer said:
Yes. Eastwood TIG200 and as a beginner to TIG I have enough trouble holding the torch and the filler rod without trying to get my feet in on the act. I assume that when I pull the trigger, I get pre-flow and then full current but I have no idea if I should start with a lower current off the pedal to strike and arc or just go for it.

I need to go to welding school but my welding school doesn't have any TIG classes coming up.
Foot pedal or finger trigger is a matter of preference I suppose. I like the pedal. On the Eastwood, yeah, you get preflow, and full power, if you pop the pedal or trigger all the way. You can feather the pedal, or trigger, though. The ability to set lower start amps is handy on thin stuff.

Something my new setup has the Eastwood doesn't is 2T, and 4T. 2T, you use the pedal or trigger as normal. Push when you want to go, keep pushing until you're done. The 4T setting is a little more complex as you have control over the stages of the welding cycle and when each stage begins and ends. To operate, simply press and hold the torch switch. The preflow and start current should initiate. During this time, you are still holding the switch. When a puddle begins to develop, you can release the switch and the torch automatically begins the preset upslope cycle until it reaches full operating amperage. To terminate the weld, simply touch and hold the switch again and the torch will begin the downslope cyle and continue to the end current phase. To terminate the arc, simply release the torch switch and the arc will end and the post flow cooling of the torch and weld will begin.
 

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