Electrical diagram proofread??

Bucky685

Been Around the Block
Electrical isn't my strong suit. I drew up my wiring diagram for my '74 CB360
I tried to be as detail as possible. I am thinking i'll prob. use 12 ga. wire.
Any suggestion or changes are greatly appreciated!!

I am switching over to EMGO Universale Coils from DCC. I have no idea if those are wired correctly. There is a Positive/Negative terminal and plug wire connection.
Do I still need the stock condensor with these coils?

-GoodRidge Hydraulic brake switch
 

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Yes you'll still need the condensor, but the diagram for the coils is incorrect. The black/white wires goes to positive and the yellow and blue wires go to negative. The coil primaries are not grounded.

For your toggle, I recommend an SPST switch, not SPDT (and the switch doesn't need to be grounded).

And it's a bit trivial, but the alternator wire colors are white, pink, yellow, and green/red, with the last wire being for neutral and not going to the R/R.

Other than that, it looks pretty good to me.
 
Sonreir said:
Yes you'll still need the condensor, but the diagram for the coils is incorrect. The black/white wires goes to positive and the yellow and blue wires go to negative. The coil primaries are not grounded.

For your toggle, I recommend an SPST switch, not SPDT (and the switch doesn't need to be grounded).

And it's a bit trivial, but the alternator wire colors are white, pink, yellow, and green/red, with the last wire being for neutral and not going to the R/R.

Other than that, it looks pretty good to me.

Here is a revised diagram. I think i understood it correctly?
 

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Better, but the neutral wire from the alternator is the ground side of the indicator bulb (no switch needed as the switch is built into the engine already). If you're running without a neutral indicator light, you can ignore it.

Also, for our R/R unit, your best bet is to splice the white and yellow alternator wires together before being connected to the R/R.
 
12 ga wire is excessive. 16 ga is fine for most things, and it's what the original wiring harness used. I like to use 12 ga for headlights and horn, as those are higher current draws, and using more robust wire reduces voltage drop a bit.

And, yeah, the coils are wired wrong.
 
No neutral light. Good call on the 16 ga. vs 12 ga.

How's this look.
 

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I don't much care for your "high beam only" approach. You MUST have high and low beam. Motorcycle headlights often have a relatively short life due to vibration. What do you do if your light goes out? Instead of just switching to the other beam, you are plunged into darkness. You could crash and die as a result.

Do you have to have safety inspection where you are? If so, you will need high and low beam, as well as a brake light switch on the rear brake as well as the front.

Your brake light is an important safety feature. Make it work for both brakes.
 
I don't see a horn either nor a kill switch unless that is what he is planning on using with that "toggle" switch.

But as stated above if you have to inspect the bike make sure this stuff is going to pass. I have a book for where I live that explains what will and what won't pass and strangely since my bike was made in 1974 I don't need a kill switch.
 
Good catch on the horn. I wouldn't want to ride a bike that doesn't have a horn. It's an important safety feature. I usually install one of those Stebel air horns with the built-in air centrifugal air pump. I use a relay to power it, because it's too much current to run through a horn button. They are fuckin' LOUD!

Many states, (like my state of PA,) don't require turn signals. Of course, if a bike has turn signals, they have to work.
 
Alright revised it a bit.

I found a different switch that can do hi/off/lo in one switch (SPDT). (correct me if this isn't the proper switch to use for this application)
I never use the horn that is on my other motorcycle anyway, so I ommited that. I know some people like them. (personal preference). Again personal prefernce, I never use my rear brake without my front brake, so that is my reasoning behind that. Again personal preference.
 

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You may never use your horn, but if it is required by law for safety inspection, you will have to have one.

You may say you never use your rear brake without the front, but that is probably not really true. What about wet slippery streets? You use your front brake when it might mean crashing? What about sitting at a light? Do you hold your front brake the whole time you are sitting there? (I often do, but not always.) If there are no cars behind you, you DEFINITELY want your brake light illuminated, even if you are just sitting there with your foot on the rear brake.

Again, state law requires the brake light to operate with either brake.

Things like neutral indicator lights are definitely superfluous. Horns and brake lights are required.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
You may never use your horn, but if it is required by law for safety inspection, you will have to have one.

You may say you never use your rear brake without the front, but that is probably not really true. What about wet slippery streets? You use your front brake when it might mean crashing? What about sitting at a light? Do you hold your front brake the whole time you are sitting there? (I often do, but not always.) If there are no cars behind you, you DEFINITELY want your brake light illuminated, even if you are just sitting there with your foot on the rear brake.

Again, state law requires the brake light to operate with either brake.

Things like neutral indicator lights are definitely superfluous. Horns and brake lights are required.

Safety is something I shouldn't of overlooked. I want to do it right. I don't need a cobbled together death trap. (At least I'll have working brake lights and a horn)
A horn is required but we don't have any inspections.
Rear brake switch is a smart idea to have since I'm doing it. Doesn't add much wiring and I can use the stock one.


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Bucky685 said:
Safety is something I shouldn't of overlooked. I want to do it right. I don't need a cobbled together death trap. (At least I'll have working brake lights and a horn)
A horn is required but we don't have any inspections.
Rear brake switch is a smart idea to have since I'm doing it. Doesn't add much wiring and I can use the stock one.


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The fact that you are willing to overlook some very KEY safety issues is concerning to me. Horns are easy to hide and so is the wiring for them.

But its your bike
 
firebane said:
The fact that you are willing to overlook some very KEY safety issues is concerning to me. Horns are easy to hide and so is the wiring for them.

But its your bike
I am going to put a horn and rear brake switch on the bike. I wrote my last post wrong.
Sorry for the confusion.
I'm going to update my schematic tomorrow to reflect it and post it up.
Again I do want a safe bike.


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Bucky685 said:
I am going to put a horn and rear brake switch on the bike. I wrote my last post wrong.
Sorry for the confusion.
I'm going to update my schematic tomorrow to reflect it and post it up.
Again I do want a safe bike.


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On behalf of all "proper" riders out there.. Thank you.
 
Alrighty. I think I got my wiring diagram finalized...Finially.

Here is the key switch i'm planning on using. It has a off/Ignition no lights/ignition with lights.
http://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-Security-Ignition-Switches/dp/B000GZKTA0/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A3TGC5XRRCX4P2
 

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