Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
This is on a 74 cb360 (not running yet). I've replaced all the bulbs to LED, including the headlights. The alternator is probably is working/going to work. but I've a different thinking. I'm thinking of getting rid of the entire charging system. Below is my assessment and assumptions:
Not ride for more than 200 miles in a day - a total ride time of 4 hours. Estimating maximum electric power consumption with the headlights on is 250W (12.5V@20A). Is 20A power consumption a decent estimate or I'm way under in my estimate?
So a total of 1kWhr for riding 4 hours. My plan is to get a 1kWhr pack and run it and see how far I can ride.
Has anyone tried this? You may ask why do this complicated thing - I ask why not.
I like your why not attitude. It is cool to see others doing things out of the mainstream/out of the box. My vote would be try it and see. I saw a guy last summer riding with no tank, and a backpack of fuel so you are WAY safer than that guy!
I like your why not attitude. It is cool to see others doing things out of the mainstream/out of the box. My vote would be try it and see. I saw a guy last summer riding with no tank, and a backpack of fuel so you are WAY safer than that guy!
That's kinda where I was headed. Most folks want to reduce the weight and size to something that will still function. I've not heard too many peeps want to increase.
Why not? Because sitting in traffic worrying about the battery going dead sucks? Because those fancy lightweight lithium cells can be damaged by discharging them too far? Because kickstarting the bike in the street after you shut it off to conserve battery life at the train crossing isn't the same thrill it used to be? Because if you get the math wrong before your ride the fix isn't just bump starting it? In general cuz it's nice to have a reliable ignition system that doesn't depend on calculating power draws?
What part of eliminating a charging system and going to total loss is complicated? Pull the rotor, pull the stator, put LEDs in the headlight and brake light. Guess what size battery you need then go ride it and see when it stalls. So what will you do with the rest of your Saturday? I'm not trying to flame, I truly don't see it.
I'm assuming you aren't replacing the rotor with a weight, that would add some work I suppose. If you're leaving the rotor in place it's even simpler. Cut a wire or two and you're done. I had a total loss 750 GT one afternoon. All I needed to do to get there was break a ground wire. I've forgotten how far it went but I don't really see the thrill in having a bike that couldn't burn through a tank of gas without stopping to charge the battery. On the other hand, I had an 851 that went the other direction and didn't know when to stop charging it's fancy lithium cells. Same end result but the 851 leaked a lot more smoke after it stopped running. And cost a shitload more to fix, but that's a different thread.
FWIW - the Ducati in my avatar didn't require a battery to run, the only critical thing the battery powered was the brakelight. That makes a boatload more sense to me than making a streetbike a total loss system and leaving the ignition as part of that.
I also think asking why is a completely legit question. "Why not" is a cop out. I would think it's pretty obvious why someone would want a battery that wasn't going to go dead just from riding the bike. I'm truly curious as to what you see as an advantage to doing this, and I'm really not just typing all this to flame you.
For a drag bike, sure get rid of it.
For a street bike it's just a dumb idea.
You're likely going to add weight and put a limit on your riding for no gain other than spending more money on batteries.
There is literally no upside.
For a race bike, a batteryless self generating ignition is fine. I had those on several of my race bikes. For others I eliminate the charging system and go total loss, but they have no lights and the battery lasts almost a day or say 4 races at 20 minutes each. I have a drag race bike that uses a very compact RC Lithium battery but it only has to go for about 10 seconds at a time.
Back in the seventies, I built a Triumph twin and fitted that with a Lucas K2F magneto for a fatter spark and a Lucas Alternator plus capacitor (no battery) for lights and horn. That way, if I had a charging issue, the ignition still worked. That same ancient Alternator is what Cycle -X use on their Honda 750 conversion.
In other words, there are lots of different ways to solve a problem. It's just that total loss on a street bike doesn't appear to be a very efficient or suitable solution to whatever problem is being solved.
The lightest and probably most reliable system is probably an HPI or similar small rotor self generating ignition with charge coils. Cheapest is stock. Use a Lithium battery for a small weight reduction and upgrade the regulator/rectifier to something that will work with the Lithium battery. Fitr a Dyna ignition and coils and they will give a great spark but draw more current. Lots of way to skin that proverbial cat, but a large battery pack would be last on my list.
Sonrier knows more that most about electrics and especially CB360. He designs and sells parts to upgrade electrics. Ask him what he would do, and then do that.
Thank you DD, Sonic, teazer. I understand and agree with all of your points and I'm convinced that best solution is to keep, and upgrade the stator.
I really appreciate, respect and agree with what's been said. I just want to try this out, just for my understanding on whether it is possible and see how much energy does a cb360 need to run for 200 miles.
Easy enough to try out, unplug the stator and drive till it stops lol.
The problem is the uncertainty, if you stop a but longer at lights one day from the next the range will be different, more RPM's one day then another more difference etc.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
This is a nice way of saying you don't understand what we are talking about 
