Guzzi Cali Cafe - Build Thread

Bevelheadmhr said:
like this
Yes, ok, but I'd say lose the Ducati SL tail piece.


Bevelheadmhr said:
BTW, I have this in my shed, a couple of my mates have supercharged road bikes, it will fit between the cylinders and would be driven from the front. Only problem I see is moving the alternater..

I may go mad, I try to make something like this, but maybe that's for another project..

Yes...yes...YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
By the way, the engine in your second photo is fuel injected as well. This will not be cheap...
 
I wouldn't use injection if I went ahead with the blower.. far too complex for me. What I'd do is run one carb (S&S Super E or a Mikuni HSR 42 probably), before the blower. Its much easier, and blowers run much better with some fuel going through them to cool and lubricate the vanes. Then again I do have this hardly worn big old SU, which could work too.. it came off a drag bike, it has a separate float bowl which means the carb can be used tilted from the vertical which is handy for a bike.


P.S..this is my mates homemade supercharged 1978 Z1000 Mk2... an on going ten year project.. hasn't cost a huge amount, except a lot of time..


 
With my Ironhead / Norton project about to be dismantled for paint, it was moved into my garage, which meant waking the Guzzi from its slumber, cleaning it up and moving it into my conservatory behind the house. Here it'll stay until the Ironhead is finished and the remaining fabrication it needs is completed. But now I see it everyday out of the kitchen window, so I'll not be able to resist doing a little work on it.

I didn't like the silencers I'd made for it, they were too small and tilted up too much. I borrowed one of the megas from the Ironhead. to see how they looked, give me some ideas.. The easiest option would be to just fit a pair of similar silencers straight onto the downpipes, no exhaust tubing to weld, plenty of foot clearance below for gear changes and braking and a simple mounting bracket. Not sure I like the look though? Or they could be angled in the usual way, I'd have to make a link pipe, but nothing too tricky. Well, I'll not be using the exact same silencers, the Ironhead ones are too small for the Guzzi and not the right style, and I may want the whole exhaust ceramically coated black. Something to think about.

Another task I can do now without spending any money is to cut out the bump in the seat base, glass in a flat replacement and make a seat base in stainless..



OR
 
Bevelheadmhr said:
Glassfibre, with the period correct clear strip for checking fuel level..

When did this good idea go out of fashion?

Bevelheadmhr said:
This is the sort of look I'm aiming for.. but not in those colours..

oh, thank god. Pea soup green never caught on as a racing color.
 
Cuba Libre said:
Yes, ok, but I'd say lose the Ducati SL tail piece.
Yeah, those colors aren't right.

Guzzi had a nice deep red with black accents that was very distinctive, and I always thought the dayglo orange stripe on the fairings was cool and iconic.
 
This...this is what the Guzzi V7 Cafe should have looked like. This porn is not safe for work.

index.php
 
Bevelheadmhr said:
I finally tracked down the missing gear change linkage from a breakers in France.. thank god for the internet..
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l529/Merch131ho/GuzziProject/Guzzi22001.jpg[/img][/URL]

There was an old bush jammed in the frame rail pivot, but nothing my trusty dremel couldn't handle..



Hi BH,
I think this linkage needs to be adjusted differently as the angle of the dangle looks like it bears too acutely on the ball joint. I know its only a gear change and not a brake linkage but it appears the splined joint needs to be more rotated and the connecting link needs lengthening so all the pivots are 90 degrees so an unusual leverage is not put on the ball to break the socket? Maybe if all the links are parallel it will draw less visual attention to it.
 
K0Kid said:
Hi BH,
I think this linkage needs to be adjusted differently as the angle of the dangle looks like it bears too acutely on the ball joint. I know its only a gear change and not a brake linkage but it appears the splined joint needs to be more rotated and the connecting link needs lengthening so all the pivots are 90 degrees so an unusual leverage is not put on the ball to break the socket? Maybe if all the links are parallel it will draw less visual attention to it.

Correct, but need to wait until the seat is done, before I can judge how the gear/brake levers should be set for me. No point fixing it till then.
 
Bevelhead,
Got my delivery of my Cali II and a line on the frame conversion pieces.What happened to all the photos? My brother swears by photobucket but I've seen too many times pics disappear forever but their advert stays forever. I prefer to post .jpeg' s only.
 
Hit the photobucket limit, it resets on the 19th of each month, when they'll all reappear. I tend not to use photobucket on these threads now for that reason. I could go back and edit the thread to just use attachments, but it takes ages to dig out the photos and resize them if necessary.

As for the Guzzi, I've started to do a bit on it last couple of weeks. The supercharger I have wont fit without cutting the frame top rails (its too big really for a 1000cc twin, it would need to be geared down a lot) so that's not happening.
 
With my Norley project nearing completion (famous last words :) ), I've started on the Guzzi again. I'd cut off the original coil mounts on the frame, they lived behind the lhs side panel. I designed a complex bracket to be made in alloy, only to find that one of the coils got damaged somehow since last year, and now had a cracked casing. Not a good start
 

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A few minutes research showed that a Lucas coil (used in many old Brit Cars) would work on the Guzzi, while being very cheap and easily available, so I bought two. They are a little bigger than the originals, but not by much, not sure where I'm going to mount them, but probably under the stainless electrics tray, in front of the rectifier, that would keep the wiring neat and out of sight
 

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Glad to see all your old pics back because I copied them before to my files for reference but half of them distorted don't know if there was a connection to PB but thanks for restroring them. It will make my life much easier seeing the magnicifent work you've already done. Both the Norley and the Guzzi

Indeed I did get my frame rail conversion with pegs. found a Spada bikini fairing I like that's a Guzzi part and half of the lower engine fairings. I will remake almost all in carbon fiber reducing the doodads..... turn signals, brake lights and make them molded in going for a summer and winter version. No fairings for summer its 110 here, wewait til midnight to ride and fairings for winter since it snows here...a few dzus fasteners and zippo chango. Interesting to note that your Cali III came with wire wheels and mine a Cali II with the typ. cast wheels(Europe vs US ?) Many of the articles complain about the cast wheels as prone to corrosion, cracking and heaviness compared to wire wheels.
Saw online a new product for harleys direct coil on plug units kinda angular trapezoidal and ribbed (would fit the Guzzi style nicely) but Guzzi's cylinder angle might be too much sticking out for the engine guards to be able to protect. Maybe there are some Japanese car stuff that's small that might work.
I'm really disappointed you say supercharger won't work, I was really contemplating that one, seems like a natural !
A good website is.... http://www.vdcon.nl/articles/english ...for a lot of buried technical info especially Dr John Wittners 2 Guzzi race bikes 20 years apart that he developed for the factory. One claim was that a 1/4 in. dimensions was critical for pipe power.
 
Good looking project!!!,
I did build a Guzzi CR also, and have stored all electrics under the tank, between the frame pipes, including the coils, rectifier and diode plate and 5 switch-relays. even the fuse box sits there to.
Made an alloy plate witch I mounted with hose clamps around the upper frame tube and mounted all the components to the plate.

Keep up the good work.
Grtz Frank,
 
Bevelheadmhr,
Would you, could you zip me a couple of pics of the way the MG attaches, hangs or sits on the bike stand on the bike lift?
Does it engage the steering neck with a short piece of tubing? and then rest on rear wheel of bike, bipod effect?
We have this style lift here but I have never seen this method of hanging the bike usually an owner has to make some sort of screwplate clamp for front wheel but once wheel is off, bike sits on bottom of frame, not ideal or stable.
THX Ross
 
Speedfreak said:
Good looking project!!!,
I did build a Guzzi CR also, and have stored all electrics under the tank, between the frame pipes, including the coils, rectifier and diode plate and 5 switch-relays. even the fuse box sits there to.
Made an alloy plate witch I mounted with hose clamps around the upper frame tube and mounted all the components to the plate.

Keep up the good work.
Grtz Frank,

Grtz Frank,
in looking at Bevelheads pics, I was going to ask that very question as it seem like there is space between the frame tubes under the tank with no equipment there, although rising heat from the engine may be an issue !(electrical items don't like heat) My honda 750 stores the coils there!

So this is great to know that it is doable. Have you got any pics ?

I also would like to use Honda's idea of tank mounts on slip over rubber nubs so tank is not bolted down but isolated and holddown rubber uses a flange which is hidden by seat and doesn't rely on a stretched strap which always breaks eventually and Guzzi strap puts tear away load on a nub, pin or hook attached to rear of tank, Honda's relies on simple gravity better when tank is plastic, FRP or CF. and quick release when on the road access is needed.
then again i like the look of a SS strap with over center latches the length of the tank as a CR detail. what to do what to do?

Bevelhead,
Where will your battery be? I see you made a battery plate and I have seen GuzziTech's plate and the accompanying plate that mounts to the engine and trans in a vertical position both actng as frame reinforcements. I like the battery in the seat tail but its a bit far away from the starter and doesnt help the center of gravity but I like the idea of it being enclosed in case of leakage or explosion. More modern batteries, gel like etc., may eliminate many of these issues. Not there yet.
 
Bevelhead ,
I was going to ask what is notch at front of seat for until I saw in one of your pics, its to get access for the seat hold down bolt. I originally thought it was to clear the angled backbone tube of the frame but realised that ends under the tank. My Norton Manx has a large cut out at seat front whose only use I can see is for the family jewels or as a drain for rain when riding in wet weather. Its been many a time I would have to stand up to drain water from the crotch when riding in gollywhompers. Does anyone know historical use of cutout as it has disappeared from use on modern bikes?......looking thru old pics I seem to notice the hole is to gain access to the original manx oil tank which has been relocated to under the gas tank as a separate pod on my Kawaton....
For the new CR I will likely use a quick release latch at the front of the seat like a racing car hood pins and keep the Le Mans rear hinge points on the seat for quick access. Does anyone have a pic of the Le Mans side covers hold down screw. I would like to use a quick release latch for the new side covers. See website below for a newer popular quick release push button latch ...a mini vesrsion of the racing car push button hood pins, only an inch in diameter.

http://www.q-latch.com/

Ross
 
K0Kid said:
Grtz Frank,
in looking at Bevelheads pics, I was going to ask that very question as it seem like there is space between the frame tubes under the tank with no equipment there, although rising heat from the engine may be an issue !(electrical items don't like heat) My honda 750 stores the coils there!

So this is great to know that it is doable. Have you got any pics ?

I also would like to use Honda's idea of tank mounts on slip over rubber nubs so tank is not bolted down but isolated and holddown rubber uses a flange which is hidden by seat and doesn't rely on a stretched strap which always breaks eventually and Guzzi strap puts tear away load on a nub, pin or hook attached to rear of tank, Honda's relies on simple gravity better when tank is plastic, FRP or CF. and quick release when on the road access is needed.
then again i like the look of a SS strap with over center latches the length of the tank as a CR detail. what to do what to do?

Hi KOKID,

Don't have any pics of the electricity parts under the tank, try to make some this weekend and post them here, pics of my Guzzi CR you can find here in Topic; The collection- café racers- pics of members ride before and after- page 91. the alloy with red Guzzi is mine.
The tank is hold down with two rubbers at the front just like Honda tanks only a bit bigger, at the rear is a rubber strap with a little notch in the seat.( 3/8 of an inch) to get it on and off.
Battery is hanging under the transmission.
Until this moment no probs with the electrics under the gastank, the Guzzi has a nice space between the cylinders and lots of air coming thru there.

Grtz Frank,
 
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