Honda CB/CL 350 Engine Reassembly Tricks
- Thread starter iContango
- Start date
Understood - I actually completed the teardown and in all honesty, there isn't much to this thing. I'll likely just have the cylinders bored/honed by Boretech, lap the valves, replace the tensioner, seals, and gaskets, and reassemble per the manual. I think the hardest part will be figuring out the timing, as I have no clue where to start to get it back to factory specs, especially where to position the cam and stuff related to that.
What is the BEST manual to use for engine assembly? I have the shop manual and it is OK, but wondering if there is an alternative.
What is the BEST manual to use for engine assembly? I have the shop manual and it is OK, but wondering if there is an alternative.
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
I'll tell you some more tips. Apply to all motorcycle engines, not just these.
Watch out for location pins for bearing races and shafts. I watch a guy crack his Suzuki Triple bottom Crankcase tightening down on a misplaced location pin.
If they are missing, the races or shaft will spin inappropriately, causing case issues.
They require that extra...check twice ... kind of attention.
Watch out for location pins for bearing races and shafts. I watch a guy crack his Suzuki Triple bottom Crankcase tightening down on a misplaced location pin.
If they are missing, the races or shaft will spin inappropriately, causing case issues.
They require that extra...check twice ... kind of attention.
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
iContango said:
Those and others. It's one of those little things that if you miss, you do far more damage than the mistake should call for. I believe the transmission bearings have similar locating pins too.
minidriver8
Active Member
my best advice, Go Slowly, and think about what you're doing.
make sure things are clean and free. this helps prevent cross threading and don't put a tool on a nut or bolt before fingers get it to go on first.
get all the torque settings printed out nice an big on paper and have them handy. use the right torque wrench. and did i mention go slowly.
oh yeah, tighten as you go.....never put something in and say to yourself, i'll tighten than later, big no-no! and murphy's law will catch up to you.
as for timing go to youtube and watch as many videos as possible on the 350 timing. it isn't that hard but can be frustrating at first until you see it in action.....but will workeventually ;-)
personally, i used a continuity testing method with all wires disconnected from coils/condenser and "multi-meter-continuity-setting" to locate when points open, made life a bit easier to locate the timing mark by "sound" while watching the rotor hit the proper mark while rotating the crank counter-clockwise.
remember, valve adjuster covers will be off and you'll be able to wiggle both intake and exhaust rocker arms when you're on the compression firing stroke. this will keep your brain timed to the engine since you'll notice an odd thing(hopefully) the engine fires on both compression stroke and exhaust stroke. it's a wasted spark to just make sure you can wiggle both rockers at the same time and you'll be ready to check when the points begin to open! so once that is done, follow static timing procedure part two for drivers POV right-hand cylinder and you'll be all set.........then you can use a timing light since the motor needs to be running for that.
good luck and have fun but when frustrated, walk away(other piece of advice, very handy!!!)
make sure things are clean and free. this helps prevent cross threading and don't put a tool on a nut or bolt before fingers get it to go on first.
get all the torque settings printed out nice an big on paper and have them handy. use the right torque wrench. and did i mention go slowly.
oh yeah, tighten as you go.....never put something in and say to yourself, i'll tighten than later, big no-no! and murphy's law will catch up to you.
as for timing go to youtube and watch as many videos as possible on the 350 timing. it isn't that hard but can be frustrating at first until you see it in action.....but will workeventually ;-)
personally, i used a continuity testing method with all wires disconnected from coils/condenser and "multi-meter-continuity-setting" to locate when points open, made life a bit easier to locate the timing mark by "sound" while watching the rotor hit the proper mark while rotating the crank counter-clockwise.
remember, valve adjuster covers will be off and you'll be able to wiggle both intake and exhaust rocker arms when you're on the compression firing stroke. this will keep your brain timed to the engine since you'll notice an odd thing(hopefully) the engine fires on both compression stroke and exhaust stroke. it's a wasted spark to just make sure you can wiggle both rockers at the same time and you'll be ready to check when the points begin to open! so once that is done, follow static timing procedure part two for drivers POV right-hand cylinder and you'll be all set.........then you can use a timing light since the motor needs to be running for that.
good luck and have fun but when frustrated, walk away(other piece of advice, very handy!!!)
minidriver8 said:
Thanks for the advice. I am not worried about setting timing after assembly, as I have an electronic ignition and a timing strobe. What I am worried about it the proper camshaft/crank orientation. How does one figure that out during reassembly?
