Ignition switch push button

schaubster

schaubster

Been Around the Block
I am removing my keyed ignition switch and replacing it with an ignition button that will be inconspicuously placed. Any suggestions on which to use? I am also wondering how much amperage it needs to handle.


Bike: 1973 cb450


Thanks!
 
Go to Napa or Autozone and buy a 12V dashmount horn button

3
 
I was actually looking for a on/off switch to replace my keys. This looks like a good one but I believe it is just a momentary one.
 
schaubster said:
I was actually looking for a on/off switch to replace my keys. This looks like a good one but I believe it is just a momentary one.
Click to expand...

where do you plan on putting it? there are rocker switch options for both bar mounting and...elsewhere mounting.
 
I was thinking about doing the same for my cb750 so will be following this. BUT I know to start the bike it's ignition to on, the killswitch to run, and then you could start the bike. What needs to be done if removing the kill?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
vandito.cb said:
where do you plan on putting it? there are rocker switch options for both bar mounting and...elsewhere mounting.
Click to expand...


I was planning on putting it below the seat. Is there an amp level it needs to be?
 
message sonreir...i'm pretty sure he invented electricity. he might also have some things you need too.
 
Do a search on eBay or Amazon for "latching button".

After you find one that matches the look you're going for, check out the specs. You want one that can handle at least 15 amps.

If you can't find one that can handle that much current or you have your heart set on a button that can only handle a small amount of current, we can include a relay.

A five pin automotive relay will do the trick. Most are good from anywhere from 20 to 40 amps.

On the relay, Pins 30 and 85 go to the red wire from your ignition switch. Pin 87 should connect to the brown, brown/white, and black wires from your ignition switch. Pin 86 goes to one pole of your button and the other pole of the button gets grounded.

If you're not using a relay, one pole of your button goes to the red ignition wire and the other pole of the button goes to the brown, brown/white, and black wires from the ignition switch.

To bypass the kill switch, unplug the black and the black/white wires from the right hand switch gear. On the harness side, plug the black and black/white wires into each other.
 
Sonreir said:
Do a search on eBay or Amazon for "latching button".

After you find one that matches the look you're going for, check out the specs. You want one that can handle at least 15 amps.

If you can't find one that can handle that much current or you have your heart set on a button that can only handle a small amount of current, we can include a relay.

A five pin automotive relay will do the trick. Most are good from anywhere from 20 to 40 amps.

On the relay, Pins 30 and 85 go to the red wire from your ignition switch. Pin 87 should connect to the brown, brown/white, and black wires from your ignition switch. Pin 86 goes to one pole of your button and the other pole of the button gets grounded.

If you're not using a relay, one pole of your button goes to the red ignition wire and the other pole of the button goes to the brown, brown/white, and black wires from the ignition switch.

To bypass the kill switch, unplug the black and the black/white wires from the right hand switch gear. On the harness side, plug the black and black/white wires into each other.
Click to expand...
Is there a button out there that could be used as both a start and kill? Hold down to start the bike, press again to kill?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
It seems the best bet is to just get a button and use a relay, some of the 15amp buttons seem to bulky. Also does a "latching button" mean the button stays activated when pushed, if so that would me that it's constantly sending power to the starter?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
quadracer351 said:
It seems the best bet is to just get a button and use a relay, some of the 15amp buttons seem to bulky. Also does a "latching button" mean the button stays activated when pushed, if so that would me that it's constantly sending power to the starter?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

A latching button will constantly send power to the starter, yes. If you're looking to use a button for the starter motor, use a momentary button.
 
Just got the new stock starter relay, just to be sure if using a button under 15amp, I'll need a relay to activate this relay or is the relay only necessary if your removing the stock starter relay?
dc22cad566e73e827740ac975f4ee8ad.jpg


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
quadracer351 said:
Just got the new stock starter relay, just to be sure if using a button under 15amp, I'll need a relay to activate this relay or is the relay only necessary if your removing the stock starter relay?
dc22cad566e73e827740ac975f4ee8ad.jpg


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That unit will probably draw around two or three amps. You might be able to skip the relay if your push button is good for three amps or better.
 
The relay you were talking about would replace this relay or work with it? If I cold get a smaller auto relay to put under the hump I'd rather that. Also any books you suggest that would help with motorcycle electrical, I feel both bad I'm wasting your time with these questions and stupid I don't know these things

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
quadracer351 said:
The relay you were talking about would replace this relay or work with it? If I cold get a smaller auto relay to put under the hump I'd rather that. Also any books you suggest that would help with motorcycle electrical, I feel both bad I'm wasting your time with these questions and stupid I don't know these things
Click to expand...

The relay would work with it. Relays need power to operate, so the button would operate the relay and the relay would operate whatever you actually needed switched.

Originally, I thought you were talking about replacing the ignition switch (not the starter button) and that's why I recommended the 15A latching button. 3A momentary is fine for a starter button replacement.
 
So a 3amp momentary button directly to the stock starter relay with NO extra relay would work? And finally just using the universal relay without the stock starter relay to get rid of the stock starter relay wouldn't work? Sorry again, in the garage working on all this now.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
quadracer351 said:
So a 3amp momentary button directly to the stock starter relay with NO extra relay would work? And finally just using the universal relay without the stock starter relay to get rid of the stock starter relay wouldn't work? Sorry again, in the garage working on all this now.
Click to expand...

Correct on both counts. Solenoid is always needed. Using a relay for the solenoid is not needed.
 
Sonreir said:
Correct on both counts. Solenoid is always needed. Using a relay for the solenoid is not needed.
Click to expand...
Prefect, about to order this button that I'm thinking will work, it says it handles up to 4 amps and is normally open. Should work for what i need?

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/pb-143/hd-metal-pushbutton-n.o.-momentary/1.html

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom