Lil Red - 1972 Honda CB175
- Thread starter Sonreir
- Start date
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
Yep, those won't do anything for noise or back pressure but will add length and looks. The little B&S mufflers slip up inside almost completely out of sight and a couple of set screws to hold them. then you can drill the centers for flow with a step drill until you get the right mix if you need too. I found an article online from someone who did it is how I figured out to try it, Made the bike run much better.
Extra length should help. I was thinking of these.
They come in two diameters, but they are just mild steel, so your shorties might look better. better still, add a collector and use a single muffler - preferably long and megaphone shaped.
the pair I have are H2970 and the outer sleeve is 1.5", so if you wanted to, you could remove the insert which has a louvered core and fiberglass wrap and slip it into your pipes or go to a 2 into 1 and use the larger size. I think mine came from Summit and I want to find a way to use them inside a stock looking muffler because the baffles are rotted out on my 160.
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They come in two diameters, but they are just mild steel, so your shorties might look better. better still, add a collector and use a single muffler - preferably long and megaphone shaped.
the pair I have are H2970 and the outer sleeve is 1.5", so if you wanted to, you could remove the insert which has a louvered core and fiberglass wrap and slip it into your pipes or go to a 2 into 1 and use the larger size. I think mine came from Summit and I want to find a way to use them inside a stock looking muffler because the baffles are rotted out on my 160.
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Rider52
Over 1,000 Posts
You can have the speedometer recalibrated or swap to a 19" rim. Lots of trouble for insignificant gain. I would note the difference between actual and indicated and just ride it. You could also use one of your GPS speedometers clipped to the bars. Remove it when parked or you could replace the current speedometer with one of your GPS units. Probably have to make a ring to adapt it.
Thanks. I have the Emgos here already, so I'll give those a try. But good to have this as a backup.
I ended up going in a slightly different direction. I'm swapping the headlight shell out to a smaller, more traditional one. I also have a generic electronic speedo/tach on the way. It's got a modern look. We'll see how it performs.
HerrDeacon
Over 1,000 Posts
I've been trying to figure out where to put my sensor and that looks like a great solution, nice one! How did you stick on the magnet? Also, mine never came with one (or I've misplaced it 
), do you know what type they are? They don't have to be super strong ones do they?
), do you know what type they are? They don't have to be super strong ones do they?
I've been trying to figure out where to put my sensor and that looks like a great solution, nice one! How did you stick on the magnet? Also, mine never came with one (or I've misplaced it
For now, it's held in place with emblem adhesive. I wanted a chance to test things at low speed before I committed to something more permanent. If I can't get the sensor close enough to the magnet without clearing the spokes, my next attempt will be on the rear sprocket. There's a small hole already present in the swingarm, just behind the shock mount. I think it's for the chain guard but it should also work for a pickup sensor.
HerrDeacon
Over 1,000 Posts
Thanks, going to have a look at mine this evening to see if I can mount it similarly (CB350).
Refurbished the ignition switch. Replaced the wires and removed the parking light circuit. Also added new Tygon fuel lines and a quick disconnect for the tank balancer.
Not pictured: Entire wiring harness replaced because of reasons? New ignition coil, too.
Not pictured: Entire wiring harness replaced because of reasons? New ignition coil, too.
Attachments
New clubman bars, polished controls (from our website), levers and perches, electronic tach/speedo, new bucket, and LED headlight with halo. Also tossed on some new bar end mirrors with bar end turn signals.
Attachments
Coming along...
1.) Turn signals don't flash. Replacement relay is in order, but I was planning on doing that anyway.
2.) Brake and clutch levers are at the wrong angle for someone of my height. PO was a bit taller than me.
3.) Similarly, the shifter angle isn't ideal, either. But on top of that, the throw is too long. I need to figure out something with a shorter shift.
4.) It's the first time in a long time that I've covered any significant distance with a front drum brake. I think a disc conversion may be in my future. Additionally, I think the drum (or the pads) might have issues. The brake acts like it's out of round (alternating braking pressure as the wheel spins).
5.) I miss having a kill switch and a neutral light.
6.) Speedo reads very fast. Radar clocked me at 39 when speedo was reading 55.
7.) WOT at higher RPMs and the bike starts missing. Top speed about 73 according to the speedo, which really means about 51? That seems quite slow for a 175.
So the brakes still need some work and the installation of the electronic tach has given me some new information to work with.
Looks like I'm getting a misfire right around 7900 RPM. I think it's points bounce because every time the misfiring occurs, the tach jumps up a couple of hundred RPM.
Dyna S system for a GL1000 has been ordered and should be here before the end of the week.
2.) Brake and clutch levers are at the wrong angle for someone of my height. PO was a bit taller than me.
3.) Similarly, the shifter angle isn't ideal, either. But on top of that, the throw is too long. I need to figure out something with a shorter shift.
4.) It's the first time in a long time that I've covered any significant distance with a front drum brake. I think a disc conversion may be in my future. Additionally, I think the drum (or the pads) might have issues. The brake acts like it's out of round (alternating braking pressure as the wheel spins).
6.) Speedo reads very fast. Radar clocked me at 39 when speedo was reading 55.
7.) WOT at higher RPMs and the bike starts missing. Top speed about 73 according to the speedo, which really means about 51? That seems quite slow for a 175.
So the brakes still need some work and the installation of the electronic tach has given me some new information to work with.
Looks like I'm getting a misfire right around 7900 RPM. I think it's points bounce because every time the misfiring occurs, the tach jumps up a couple of hundred RPM.
Dyna S system for a GL1000 has been ordered and should be here before the end of the week.
Pretty sure the speed sensor is doing the math as a ratio, so the number out of sync will be different at low speed and high speed. As far as the drum brake, it could be oval, but more likely it's the bearings.
Speed sensor is pretty close now that I switched to the electronic gauge. Reading 57mph on the gauge when radar clocked me at 55. Close enough for me, I think. Guess I might need to pull the front wheel and check on things, as far as the braking is concerned.
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HerrDeacon
Over 1,000 Posts
My 2017 Honda reads almost 10% over, I'd be very happy with getting it as close as you did.
Got a Dyna system for a GL1000. Backing plate is the same size as the CB175. Remove one of the pickups and bingo.
Re-wrapped the wiring in fiberglass sleeving to help keep the original look and feel.
Re-wrapped the wiring in fiberglass sleeving to help keep the original look and feel.
