New CL100 Owner

grcamna5 said:
When I look at your spark plug,the one you say is a new one.. it almost looks like it could be getting some specs of rust particles burning onto it,possibly from the rusty dust in the tank..

I didn't find anything ferrous in the float bowl or petcock filter, but when I drained and checked the tank with a dental mirror this afternoon, I saw that the initial rust treatment missed at least one spot in the back. Also, more gunk had accumulated in the petcock filter and recesses.

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None of it stuck to my magnet, but no doubt rust particles are in there.

So after pumping a lot of water through the tank to clear out any remaining loose stuff, I've started another round of rust treatment. I didn't want to subject my brand new petcock to the vinegar bath, so I fashioned a seal out of the same clear plastic tubing I'm using for my fuel line, slit down the center, and some washers. Amazingly, it's water-tight.

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How long do you guys think I should let the vinegar sit in the tank, for starters?

grcamna5, you hit the nail on the head with your observation- thanks so much for pointing it out! It's another gorgeous afternoon here, but I'd much rather sit out a ride than face premature head work.

The good news is that New Belgium started selling beer in PA, and my gf picked up a case yesterday. Things could be worse.

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Wouldn't go more than 2-3 days at a time. I've had the vinegar eat through weak spots after sitting for too long. It will eventually eat away at the metal too. Take a couple of scrap pieces (old sifter pedal or brake pedal for example) and see how much metal gets eaten away after sitting too long to guage.
 
I bought a bunch of BB's and shook my tank until my arms were too sore to continue,I waited for a while and then shook some more:that should loosen up all the remaining rust in your tank.I then washed the tank out w/ fuel(or kerosene works)until all the liquid ran clean.
Then you should be able to use your tank as is.

The vinegar treatment is about a 24hr. long process if you don't mind dealing w/ rusty powder in the tank later on from 'flash rusting':the faster you 'power dry' the inside of that tank(after the vinegar treatment & many flushes w/ pure water)the better.The tank should be dried out as Fast as Possible to avoid the 'flash rust' that occurs after using the vinegar(it has acid which eats away at the original protective steel 'coating' inside the tank when they manufacture it)and ideally the tank should be lined w/ a special coating like 'RedKote',etc. after following their application instructions carefully.
I did mine w/ vinegar only and used my Electrolux vacuum cleaner w/ the nozzle fit into the outlet Real Fast and at that point I filled it right up w/ gasoline after I installed the petcock,but I still have some rusty dust inside from the vinegar causing the tank to 'flash rust',I'll be using RedKote later to completely get rid of all that stuff.
 
Vinegar really works on metal.

B4 and after vinegar treatment of a carb bowl clip.
 

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Thanks for the advice, guys. It's a bummer I don't have my leaf blower with me, but I'll see if there's an easy way to run my shop vac in reverse. I'm getting to be a pro, so I don't mind doing all this again (if I don't have to deal with MEK). Last time, I used a product I bought at Home Depot that has some kind of rust inhibitor baked into it. It seemed to work and there was no flash rusting. It costs a fortune compared to vinegar, though, and I don't have it here. If the tank flash rusts, next time I'll re-use that stuff.
 
budlite282 said:
B4 and after vinegar treatment of a carb bowl clip.

Haha, yeah, I remember reading your post with those photos. That's why I chose not to seal the tank with the petcock. Thanks!

I'll probably siphon the vinegar out tomorrow morning when I get up, so after about 12 hours, then evaluate. It's easy to pour the vinegar back in the tank if there's still rust in there.
 
iatethepeach said:
Thanks for the advice, guys. It's a bummer I don't have my leaf blower with me, but I'll see if there's an easy way to run my shop vac in reverse. I'm getting to be a pro, so I don't mind doing all this again (if I don't have to deal with MEK). Last time, I used a product I bought at Home Depot that has some kind of rust inhibitor baked into it. It seemed to work and there was no flash rusting. It costs a fortune compared to vinegar, though, and I don't have it here. If the tank flash rusts, next time I'll re-use that stuff.

I think you speak of "Evaporust"

I intend to use it for the tank I just got......the other I had developed holes after vinegar.
 

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Mine is labeled "Metal Rescue," I think (I don't have it with me). It's probably the same stuff. I don't remember exactly what I paid for it, but I think it was $25/gallon. The good news is it's (supposedly) reusable.

How long did you leave the vinegar in your tank before the holes developed?
 
iatethepeach said:
Mine is labeled "Metal Rescue," I think (I don't have it with me). It's probably the same stuff. I don't remember exactly what I paid for it, but I think it was $25/gallon. The good news is it's (supposedly) reusable.

You are correct.....

My bag. 8)
 
Evaporust is great stuff, If you want to get every speck of rust, expect to let her soak for up to 3 days.

Like the vinegar if the steel is rusted so thin I wouldnt be suprised to see a hole. The evaporust dont harm good steel. But if theres spots where there just is no good steel left...it will be gone.

Ive been using it for years on guns...Its the perfect stuff.

And yes filter out any chunks and pour it right back in the bucket and cap it.
 
iatethepeach said:
How long did you leave the vinegar in your tank before the holes developed?

Maybe a day or two.......not long IMO.
 
Well, after looking at the photos of budlite's float bowl clip too many times, I decided not to let the vinegar run overnight, so I stopped the process late last night before bed. Instead of draining and drying the tank, however, I simply snaked in the garden hose and turned it on. When it was clear all the vinegar had been pumped out, I splashed kerosene around in the tank a few times to rinse out residual water and coated it with two-stroke oil. I couldn't get a good look inside last night, but this morning there are a few new rust globules floating around in the oil, so something happened somewhere. The surface inside the tank looks brilliant apart from that. When the sun comes out I'll get a better look at the back, then either do another vinegar bath or finish up with more rinsing.
 
iatethepeach said:
Well, after looking at the photos of budlite's float bowl clip too many times, I decided not to let the vinegar run overnight, so I stopped the process late last night before bed. Instead of draining and drying the tank, however, I simply snaked in the garden hose and turned it on. When it was clear all the vinegar had been pumped out, I splashed kerosene around in the tank a few times to rinse out residual water and coated it with two-stroke oil. I couldn't get a good look inside last night, but this morning there are a few new rust globules floating around in the oil, so something happened somewhere. The surface inside the tank looks brilliant apart from that. When the sun comes out I'll get a better look at the back, then either do another vinegar bath or finish up with more rinsing.


Go for the box of BB's and 'shake,shake,shake' as long as you can :D and then rinse out w/ plenty of Denatured Alcohol;the 'DA' will dry up any residual water that can cause flash rusting from your earlier treatment w/ that vinegar.

edit:Find a sound-proof room or an isolated area to shake the tank w/ BB's and wear earplugs :D
also you might consider lining the tank w/ a quality liner such as RedKote,etc. to be completely 'rust-free'
 
I had to flush my tank with vinegar several times before I got the process right. You gotta be reaaally quick after you get the vinegar out to avoid flash rust. Distilled water might work better than hose water. I also made sure to fill the tank up with gas very soon after the treatment.

Also, what's the condition of your gas gap? I wonder if your rust globules are actually coming from there. I had to replace my cap after all of my flushing mistrials
 
Thanks, guys. I tried pumping the vinegar out by pumping water in so I wouldn't expose the tank to air after the vinegar. Maybe I got lucky, but there was no flash rust. It's hard to photograph the inside of the tank, but this is basically what it looks like now:

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The globule you see on the frame saddle is a floater.

grcamna5 said:
Go for the box of BB's and 'shake,shake,shake' as long as you can :D and then rinse out w/ plenty of Denatured Alcohol;the 'DA' will dry up any residual water that can cause flash rusting from your earlier treatment w/ that vinegar.

I used BBs to help remove the old liner. On my tank, they have a tendency to lodge themselves in the corners, unfortunately- some stragglers came out unexpectedly yesterday when I first removed and drained the tank (the vibration from riding must have freed them up). Next time I may use something a bit larger and easier to extract, like 1/4-20 nuts on a line.

At some point I may try a liner. Either RedKote or Por, or perhaps I'll have a radiator shop take care of it.

maxDTM said:
Also, what's the condition of your gas gap?

It looks great on the outside, but it's tough to say what's going on inside. Is there a way to disassemble it? I treated it separately with rust remover the first time I cleaned the tank. Maybe I ought to splurge on a new one. Yesterday, when I looked into the far back of the tank I did see some rust, so it's not a surprise that some showed up in the vinegar bath.

Should the gas cap leak at all when the tank is inverted? Mine trickles a bit. It's not bad but it makes sloshing a little messier than I'd like.
 
I'm not sure how much you can disassemble one of these caps, but if it won't seal gas it probably needs a new rubber gasket. I believe these caps should be able vent air without letting gas trickle out.
 
Hey fellas. There's sometimes a bit of a lurch letting out the clutch near the end of the lever travel. While I'm cleaning the oil filter, I'd like to take a look at the wear on my clutch plates and maybe replace them and the springs. The FSM says a special tool is required. Will this do the trick, and do I need anything else? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Oil-Filter-and-Clutch-Hub-Spanner-Tool-NEW-08-0015-/400334088958?fits=Make%3AHonda|Model%3ACB100&hash=item5d35c56afe&vxp=mtr

maxDTM said:
I believe these caps should be able vent air without letting gas trickle out.

Thanks, max. I might just pick up a new one.
 
I made one out of a 18 or 19 mm (?) socket. Cut it out to the right 'fork' design to get what I needed.
 
sleventynineR said:
I made one out of a 18 or 19 mm (?) socket.

That's the smart and resourceful thing to do. On the other hand, my sockets have a lot of sentimental value. This could go either way.

What plates and springs did you use, 7l9r, if you replaced yours?
 
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