pidjones' bicentenial build - a '76 RD400
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Honed the cylinders and re-measured. Really, that all looks Ok, but the ring gap is 2X maximum. Tearing it down further was stalled 1) by the need for a 29mm socket for the clutch lock nut (unobtainium in Knoxville, I made do with a 30mm for now) and 2) 1/4" of crud build-up on the bottom of the engine. Screwdriver scrapping, soaking in spray bathroom cleaner, scrubbing with old tooth brushes and wire brushes is beginning to reveal aluminum under it. I want that cleaned off before splitting the case. Good weather today, so next it goes outside for the kerosene.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Ok, all the way apart now. Transmission all looks good. Some sludge in the bottom of the case, but I guess that is expected. Everything feels smooth and shifts smooth. Shift forks look barely worn on contact points, and show no bend.
The case was glued together with some kind of grey RTV. There wasn't any in the transmission, but the crankcase had bits of it everywhere. The crank - I have no confidence in it. I have no experience with bearings that spin that fast. Electric motors with grease lubricated bearings, yes. And, these would be rejected then. Seems these should feel tighter, and be silent when I spin the crank with the rods. Instead, there is a constant whir. The outside left main sounds fine the right is noisy, I can't really tell on the centers.
So.... Who are reliable crank rebuilders in the USA? And although this is almost a moot point - about how much does it cost?
The case was glued together with some kind of grey RTV. There wasn't any in the transmission, but the crankcase had bits of it everywhere. The crank - I have no confidence in it. I have no experience with bearings that spin that fast. Electric motors with grease lubricated bearings, yes. And, these would be rejected then. Seems these should feel tighter, and be silent when I spin the crank with the rods. Instead, there is a constant whir. The outside left main sounds fine the right is noisy, I can't really tell on the centers.
So.... Who are reliable crank rebuilders in the USA? And although this is almost a moot point - about how much does it cost?
For a 350 it's cheaper to get a brand new crank from Vito's. Not sure if they do a 400 version though. I have Bill Bune in MN do all my GT750 cranks and I'm sure he could split and rebuild the 400 cranks too. Rods are easily available as are mains and crank seals.
Try John at Economy Cycle for RD parts. There's a guy in Florida, Chuck Quenzler that seems to do very nice work on RDs and he rebuilds cranks. There's also Garret ?? on the left coast - he's on 2stroke world.
That gray stuff should be semi hard Threebond/Yamabond/Hondabond. It's still available but in a slightly different concoction. Probably reduced the toxicity or VOCs or something.
Try John at Economy Cycle for RD parts. There's a guy in Florida, Chuck Quenzler that seems to do very nice work on RDs and he rebuilds cranks. There's also Garret ?? on the left coast - he's on 2stroke world.
That gray stuff should be semi hard Threebond/Yamabond/Hondabond. It's still available but in a slightly different concoction. Probably reduced the toxicity or VOCs or something.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Well, haven't kept this up very well Sent the crank to Lyn Garland in Georgia for rebuild. It is back now and the engine assembled and pressure tested. Took th3 frame outside and knocked off the places that I could see where rust had been painted over, then etching primer. Got a coat of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy on the part that can be reached upside-down. I'll set it upright tomorrow and hit the rest of it (if the weather holds) Can't find a place that will knock the dents out of the tank and I don't want to Bondo that thick, so I guess a trip to Harbor Freight for a stud welder kit is in order. Since it will be repainted, this will be a lot cheaper than having a PDR guy press them out, anyway.
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pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
This one's tank isn't that bad. Just the normal headstock dent (seems most have them - don't know why the stops don't aprevent it) and one very small crease. Both in places that should pop out Ok. The PDR place near Johnson City says they can't get to it until late Spring. And for their minimum charge, I can buy three of the Harbor Freight stud welders. Changing colors anyway, so it would still need repainted. I'm going for Geneva Green, the other color in '76 and the color mine was "back in the day". (Mom standing by it in Charleston back ~'77.)
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Is Lyn restricted to those bikes or does he do most 2 strokes? I have a Tigershark Daytona 1000 jet ski which has a Suzuki triple that I may be tearing down for fresh seals here soon. Lyn is just a couple hours away.
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pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
I really don't know. You can contact him at vintspclty@aol.com He is in Jenkinsburg. I am very pleased with the work Ed Toomey is in SC, and does a variety of 2 strokes (Ed Toomey Designs on FB).
Awesome. Thanks. Didn't realize Toomey was in Anderson, SC. He's a few miles from my brother. LOL. Sorry to go off subject. Back to our regular scheduled program.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
A little memory here of my first '76 RD400c that I bought new in Charleston, SC. It was ~'77 or '78 and I decided to ride the bike home for a long weekend. This is more than 500 miles, even with today's interstates. They were not complete back then. At least I only had a ~25-26 year old back at the time. Really, after Columbia SC headed North I became either numb or found the right position and the miles went by easy. Headed back to Charleston (Must have been a Tuesday, because I voted before I left) it all went real well until Columbia, SC at around midnight. Torrential rain started and I had to be back at the base Wednesday morning so I pressed on. I had purchased a rain suit at Kmart and it was just as good as you might suspect for a Kmart product. I was wearing a Bell Star full face helmet (one of the early ones) and that kept my glasses fairly clear, plus the visor didn't fog. Good thing because the rain was falling so hard that I could barely see the road. I made it home around 4 am and actually poured water out of my boots before going inside. My clothing was 100% soaked. I took a quick shower and shave, donned a clean uniform, and headed for the base, just getting there in time for muster. The RD never missed a beat. I don't remember how many miles I put on it, but purchased in late Summer of '76, sold in January '79 and although I had cages it was my main transportation the 50% of the time I was home (2 crew submarine). It never had an issue. Started right off every time. I never did any service beyond topping off the oil, tire pressure, and changing the transmission oil (once). Never took it back to the dealer for anything. Lots of trips to the beach, daily commute ~12 miles each way, at least once a week ride to friend's house in Ravenel Evening rides through the "marshland" (I was warned never to call them 'swamps') and up toward Summerville on Ashley River Road under the Live Oak canopy were memories I like to recall, too. That was a great age and time to be on a bike. I was mature enough though, to know that I was not mature enough to have that bike when I moved back to the mountains.
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pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
I try to do at least a little something on it every day, even though most is now put up in preparation (soon, we hope!) for house remodel. Yesterday I cleaned, tested, and painted the clocks and their frame. Today I assembled the dash and tested all lamps and the circuit that switched on-and-off from the speedometer to give input to the signal cancel unit. Full speed fast (in reverse) on my VSR battery powered drill is ~ 30 MPH and 6 K RPM.
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pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Finished removing the paint from the tank. Bondo on the small dents and the one big rough spot left on the front after using the stud welder on it. The a lot of sanding, and more Bondo, more sanding, Bondo Glazing and spot putty, more sanding. Primed the bottom (tunnel) with etching primer, then the top. Noticed some rough spots on the top, so built up about four layers of filler primer (the red). I'll let that cure overnight and hit it tomorrow with sanding again. If good then, a good etching primer layer to seal everything so the lacquer will not react with any small bit I may have left. Considering leaving the tunnel with just the etching primer and then clear over the whole thing when it comes time.
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pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
I already have a seat for it. Vietnam repop. Thanks, anyway.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Well, good and not so. The "filler" primer never hardened. Had to sand it off. Then I tried Bondo Glazing and Spotting Putty - it never hardened and continues to outgas through my lacquer-based etching primer, messing it up. Dug that out and replaced it with regular Bondo 2-part. Pretty close to what I want, now.
