Project CB350F cafe brat

So I worked out the rear axle is likely for a cb200 as that’s what the rear hub is. I’ve got a 22mm stepped down to 15mm axle that came in the box of tricks. I’ve welded up the 15mm section so it could get machined to 17mm. The bloke has done that but can’t do the thread on the lathe for some reason. I suspect he doesn’t know so now I have to get another machinist to sort it out. What a drama for a bloody axle!


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this was half way through welding it up. Hopefully there isn’t too many holes in the finished product but I’m not too worried if there is. It will still be strong


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Also nearly finished with the front engine mount as I didn’t have that in the box of tricks either. Didn’t have any flat bar big enough so I welded a couple bits together and cut out the cardboard shape I made. Should work just fine and look neat with a bit of paint. Online was like $100 so I used that money for beer and went the long way around again


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Also thinking of making my own lithium battery for the bike. That way I can make it really flat but have a good AH and good CCA. I’ll sus that out with my mate that has a drone business at buzzdrones.com.au I think. He is a pretty smart guy so with our powers combined we should be able to sort something out


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I like your style mate. Making it happen no matter. How in the holy f*ck do you even think of going about making your own lithium battery? I'm trying to hook up a headlight and coming unglued, meanwhile you're creating your own power supply out of thin air. Kudos!
 
Jimbonaut said:
I like your style mate. Making it happen no matter. How in the holy f*ck do you even think of going about making your own lithium battery? I'm trying to hook up a headlight and coming unglued, meanwhile you're creating your own power supply out of thin air. Kudos!
Click to expand...

Haha thanks mate. After a little bit of research I’ve pulled the trigger and bought 20x 18650 batteries, nickel strip to join them up and a battery management system to ensure the banks are charged evenly. I’ll be running 4 in series with 5 per bank in parallel. They have a super small form factor and full custom layout which will fit under the seat really well. The batteries say 4000mAh each which is 80Ah. That’s a whole lot of juice for a bike! Even if it’s advertised falsely and it’s 2000mAh which is a common size for these cells, that’s still 40Ah so it should be alright. Look up 4s lithium ion with BMS for more info on YouTube. As for your headlight, electricity is tricky and easy at the same time. I think YouTube and basic motorcycle wiring is your best shot. Nearly all the bike is wired in series after your fuse bank. Good luck with it buddy


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Has anyone used a wideband O2 sensor to tune carbies? Thinking about going down that path on the cheap. Maybe just getting a wide band O2 sensor with a meter and resistance reference sheet to tune the carbs. 4 seperate sensors would be the go but I don’t have 4 meters. I guess I could set up a switch to flick through all 4 quickly to see what’s going on. Also not keen on welding in bungs to the headers where they are ideally located but could set up a little system to feed the sensors up through the exhaust. What I’ve got in mind will work I think.

The best option would be to buy a kit with 4 sensors and a digital display through a small logic controller. Then it’s a easy to use system that I can lend to my mates as well. I’m sure it would get used. Also the bonus of 4 sensors is you can balance the carbs with the sensor rather than doing a vacuum test on the carbs. This will allow a much better balance and result in a smoother running engine I suspect. Any suggestions would be great. Cheers


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Currently making a template for under the seat section of the frame


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my intention is to pop rivet it so it can be removed if it ever needs to be. Going to use 1mm mild steel galvanised and then painted. Maybe it’s 1.5mm, I don’t know, can’t see my verniers in the shed here. Should suffice though, it feels solid


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I’m getting closer to knowing what’s up with the wideband o2 lambda sensor and display. The kits seem to start at $200 and go up to $800 or more. So I’ve found some displays from China for $30 and the wideband o2 sensor for $60. Hopefully they are compatible and I’m laughing for the win. We will see soon enough. Having a perfectly tuned bike is going to be awesome coupled with the electronic ignition and good coils.


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Just wired up 3 chargers for the 18650 cells. Should have load tester this week as I’m curious to see what Ah the cells really are. Soon as I test them I’ll be making a battery up for under the seat and fixing it in place


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For the haters that didn’t understand. My man vibrator works a treat. Fan motor, few sticks and an old wok and I’m set


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What...is that? Is it a tumbler? Genius!

Really interesting to follow your build mate, I really had no idea you could make your own moto battery.

Ichiban - "Hmmm, wonder if I could make my own batt-"
Stubs - "Hold my beer"
 
Jimbonaut said:
What...is that? Is it a tumbler? Genius!

Really interesting to follow your build mate, I really had no idea you could make your own moto battery.

Ichiban - "Hmmm, wonder if I could make my own batt-"
Stubs - "Hold my beer"
Click to expand...

Haha cheers man. Yeah the tumbler is good for doing heaps of lite rust at once. Gives a good sandblasting coat but more even. Sic Matt finish on the fuel cap for a fucked old part. Can’t remember where I got the idea, maybe ichiban. Very funny dude

I think the battery idea came from this dude


He is super humble, heaps descriptive and shows heaps of content. After that, check out the electric sports bikes that BBM people are making! They are awesome. I’m currently looking for a doner sports bike so I can make one with mates




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Turns out I pulled the trigger a little early with the 18650 cells. They are lithium ion which have a voltage range between 3 and 4.2v. So 4 in series is 16.4v the problem is that’s more than the voltage regulator will put out which means I’ll never get the full Ah out of them. So I watched the vid above and realised I needed Lifepo4 which in series is full at 14.4v


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Ok so a list of fuckups lately while I’m at it. I only just found out the rear swing arm is bloody bent. Turns out the cb360 frame I’ve got laying around is the same fit so I fit that.

So fuckup 2 is I never checked the fuel tank with the carbs fitted. Haha the bloody petcock is fouling on the carb so now I need to move it.

Fuckup 3. I never checked the tank for water tight. It had 3 leaks. Tried welding it with the stick and drunk. Bad idea. Then I used the tig drunk and I run out of gas. Finally I oxy brazed it with silver solder and got it but fuck it was a prick for it to stick


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wide band sensors are not cheap, for sure. The best arrangement is a bung fitting. Sniffing the exhaust from the outlet end usually gives a lean reading because exhausts pull air in every cycle. We think they are just pushing exhaust gas out all the time but the pulses are not quite what we might expect.

If you could hook them up to a data logger that also shows rpm and throttle position, you would have more to work with. watching gauges on the road is hard to do. Any TPS can be mounted on a bracket and add an extra cable with a splitter.
 
teazer said:
wide band sensors are not cheap, for sure. The best arrangement is a bung fitting. Sniffing the exhaust from the outlet end usually gives a lean reading because exhausts pull air in every cycle. We think they are just pushing exhaust gas out all the time but the pulses are not quite what we might expect.

If you could hook them up to a data logger that also shows rpm and throttle position, you would have more to work with. watching gauges on the road is hard to do. Any TPS can be mounted on a bracket and add an extra cable with a splitter.
Click to expand...

I agree, bungs would be the best option. I have read that people just set the Stoichiometric Air / fuel ratio to the 14.7:1 which is perfect for unleaded bikes. Sure a race bike would need a better tune but that’s where an expert would be better off I suspect. All I want to do is measure the mixture at a set rpm on each exhaust header and match them all up. Then it would be perfectly balanced and the correct air fuel ratio. Anything more than that is surplus to my needs at this stage. Also I don’t plan to do this under load so basically just reving the bike in the shed. Pretty basic stuff for now. Can you foresee any issues with this plan?



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