"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

Will this process keep gas from 'burning' the clean coat?

I ask because I painted my tank last year. Primer-base-clear and the 1st time I let a drop of gas hit it, it burned right in. It also started to crack after about 10 months.

I'm wondering if I didn't let it cure enough???
 
Useful Idiot said:
Will this process keep gas from 'burning' the clean coat?

I ask because I painted my tank last year. Primer-base-clear and the 1st time I let a drop of gas hit it, it burned right in. It also started to crack after about 10 months.

I'm wondering if I didn't let it cure enough???
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most clears wont protect against fuel, but 2k clear will...only thing is..if you use rustoleum paint...then 2k clear wont work with it!
 
Just started painting some accessories on my bike for the first time. I like painting, it's relaxing, even if I'm bad at it.

I want to paint some of the controls on the throttle body and turn signal switches/horn/etc. The words, albeit faded, are tiny and in yellow or red colors. I've been thinking of different methods of repainting these tiny words. They are etched in the metal so maybe I can paint the assembly black, then lay a thin coat of yellow paint over the indented words, and then sand the yellow off of the assembly and the yellow words will remain; and clear coat the whole thing.
The only other method I can think of would be a tinyass paint brush, and I'd rather pull my hair out than paint a bunch of tiny letters by hand.

What is the standard operating procedure for this type of detailing?
 
AnxiousCowboy said:
Just started painting some accessories on my bike for the first time. I like painting, it's relaxing, even if I'm bad at it.

I want to paint some of the controls on the throttle body and turn signal switches/horn/etc. The words, albeit faded, are tiny and in yellow or red colors. I've been thinking of different methods of repainting these tiny words. They are etched in the metal so maybe I can paint the assembly black, then lay a thin coat of yellow paint over the indented words, and then sand the yellow off of the assembly and the yellow words will remain; and clear coat the whole thing.
The only other method I can think of would be a tinyass paint brush, and I'd rather pull my hair out than paint a bunch of tiny letters by hand.

What is the standard operating procedure for this type of detailing?
Click to expand...

I would just paint the whole thing the color you want (black), then let it cure out fully. Then have a bit of thinner on hand and a tiny brush. Lay in the secondary color with the brush. Don't worry about being too careful not to get it on the outside of the inlayed part, just make sure you get a good bit of paint in there. Give it about 3-5 minutes then using a shop cloth (not terry cloth) wet with thinner and lightly remove the paint from the raised surface leaving the paint in the recessed areas.
 
are the letters raised or cut in? if they are cut in i would just paint them, then use a index card, wrap a rag around that wiht some denatured alch, and while it is all still wet wipe off the rest, the index card acts much like a block would for sanding and keeps it flat. works great! if they are raised i would say FK it and shoot thw whole hosing
 
Thanks for all the great info, I've painted tons of helmets before but not metal gas tanks, this'll help me transition into that.
 
I love this write-up, its written so well that even I can almost not screw it up.

Ok, here's what I've done so far. I got as far as getting my tank and body pieces painted black with the "bonding" coats of clear over the top. The paint is from the duplicolor paint match line and it is a black metallic which I really like. Then I decided I want a white stripe outline on the sides of the pieces. So I figured I would just spray some white paint on top of the black, then mask off the stripe, and spray some more black. The problem is this: I sprayed the white yesterday not realizing that it is enamel. Now I need to go back over it with the duplicolor lacquer to match the rest of the paint.

Twisted, any advice on how I can proceed from here? Is my only option to sand all the white off? Is there some kind of product that will remove enamel paint but leave the lacquer intact? I'm thinking I should just get started sanding, but I had to put on a bunch of coats of white to get it to cover. Oh well. Thanks for any advice.
 
if you mixed enamal and laquor you are going to have to go back to metal and start over... they will not work together at all
 
Unfortunatly Joe is right, it just will not work on any level. I am sorry to hear that, but i do have to say that some time you just have to learn the hard way! Sucks, but sanding back to metal all over the whole tank and and starting over will be the best fix and offer the best finished product. You could sand back down to a good even black with a higher grit, like 600-800 wet with a good low speed DA sander, then begin building back to black with some more black paint. Remember this time though, it will be better to lay some white, mask it, then come in with the black! Good luck and sorry i don't have a better fix for you, but using different chemical paints is a big NO-NO! It never works out in the longrun!
 
tWistedWheelz said:
Unfortunatly Joe is right, it just will not work on any level. I am sorry to hear that, but i do have to say that some time you just have to learn the hard way! Sucks, but sanding back to metal all over the whole tank and and starting over will be the best fix and offer the best finished product. You could sand back down to a good even black with a higher grit, like 600-800 wet with a good low speed DA sander, then begin building back to black with some more black paint. Remember this time though, it will be better to lay some white, mask it, then come in with the black! Good luck and sorry i don't have a better fix for you, but using different chemical paints is a big NO-NO! It never works out in the longrun!
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Yea, that's what I was afraid of. As I've already put a bunch of time into some metal flake stripes along the tops of all the pieces I think I'll just sand down to the black. The white is only on the sides so that should work ok I guess.

Out of curiosity, what would happen to the paint in the long run? I used the same enamel underneath to create a fine white outline to some lettering (letters in metallic silver lacquer) on a different piece and it looks fine after about 5 days. It did bubble in one spot but i sanded and sprayed the silver again and I can't tell. Maybe because the letters are kinda small and the metallic hides some imperfections??
 
the main issue is not just looks, it is also how it will wear, i would bet after 2 weeks cure time you can rub the white and it will peel up
 
I see. Oh well, live and learn. The lacquer over enamel is obviously no good. But I've been told that enamel over lacquer might work ok, right? Anyone have any experience with this?
 
philk7 said:
Can i paint over actual paint without strip the tank if the paint is perfect?
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Yep, but I would give it a nice even sanding with an 800 grit or 1000 grit first. This will promote much better adhesion.
 
Hmm..so from what i've gathered here is that Rustoleum can't be cleared with 2k, and that it takes a looong time to dry(not cure) hmm..well there goes my cheap rattle can bling paint job. I was looking at rustoleum color shift paints for both my bikes..but now not so sure, if I can't use 2k then what can I use over rustoleum to make it fuel resistant? If I have to, i'll buy a cheapy gun and get some HOK color shift stuff, then spray can clear cause from building model cars I know how well spray can clear can be polished out.

Gray
 
Nein_Collins said:
Hmm..so from what i've gathered here is that Rustoleum can't be cleared with 2k, and that it takes a looong time to dry(not cure) hmm..well there goes my cheap rattle can bling paint job. I was looking at rustoleum color shift paints for both my bikes..but now not so sure, if I can't use 2k then what can I use over rustoleum to make it fuel resistant? If I have to, i'll buy a cheapy gun and get some HOK color shift stuff, then spray can clear cause from building model cars I know how well spray can clear can be polished out.

Gray
Click to expand...

Duplicolor makes about three different color shift paints that looks 10x's better than the rustoleum brand color shift and it can be coated with 2K clear! Sounds like the answer to your delima to me!

You can buy the Duplicor for about $7-$9 per can and 2K for about $25 per can shipped.

You will only need one can of the 2K, two cans at most of color, a can of primer ($4 tops!), so for paint your only out like $50! If you had a gun setup you could not buy primer/paint/clear for anything close to that cheap!
 
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