"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

[cjrenick]

I do not want to clear coat the flat black though.

 

[delirium trigger]

ya it will ruin the matte, and not look good at all

 

[JRK5892]

I always always always clear flat paint, i either mix in a flat agent or i will use a flat or satin clear out of a can, gives it much more UV protection, fade resistance, and depth, plus if it is shot from a rattle can it makes it so it does not look like it ws... all these are rattle can paint jobs, all are cleared with at least 4 coats of clear

if you do not clear it you will regret it the first time you spill gas... no if it is from a rattle can it will nto just hold up, but it will buy you some time to make a mad dash for some water to flush it off

 

[delirium trigger]

the reason why it "ruins it" is that it does provide some depth and sheen, which to me is not matte, im sure there are alot of benefits to clearcoating, and if you are worried about it lasting than do it, but to me its not matte enough, i have clearcoated matte before, but the results had me starting from scratch again, just IMHO

 

[crazypj]

Personally, I see no point in Matte finish?
It ain't a stealth fighter and the first time you touch paint you 'polish' it slightly. really difficult to clean unless it's thick enough to wipe down with 1500 grit wetordry

 

[delirium trigger]

its all about style, but that being said, to each thier own. my paint has held up fine tho, and i think i've been rough on it.
also gas doesnt seem to bother my paint.. it is a water based paint i think.. its a paint primer

 

[dcbryan]

Sweet, glad I found that write up on the first page of how to the best rattle can job possible. Now I'm trying to figure out what kind of paint to get. Could we get together a list of good/best options for primer, color and clear cans.

For clear, sounds like everybody agrees Spray Max 2K High Gloss Clearcoat is a good choice.

I read Rust-Oleum Flat Light Gray Auto Primer, is a good option for primer.

For base coats, here's the Duplicolor Enamel and Laquer line ups.

Looks like Rustomelum makes a ton of differnt paints, not sure which would be good options for painting frame, tank and components:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=417
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=377
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=372

 

[Cloyd]

I read online that with spray max 2k you do not need to clear coat. Is that true? Apparently it has the hardener, clear and paint all in one can.

 

[buzznichols]

Great post.

Just wanted to throw in my two cents about the "When ready to begin painting you should start with a light coat to check your body work."

Long ago, when I worked in a body shop, we would blow sanding primer on a vehicle (or panel, or whatever), then blow some cheap flat black rattle can paint on top of that, leaving a dalmation look. we would then block sand that with 220 - having already done a bunch of DA sanding prior to the primer. At its best, this block sanding would be done with the sand paper wrapped around a paint stick wherever the contours allowed. Any spots where the black paint remained was an otherwise undetectable low spot or wave, and could be corrected with glazing putty.

Just thought this might help with one step in a really comprehensive post.

Thanks again!

 

[RoadRash]

Yeah, what you describe, I believe, is called a "guide coat", and that's exactly what it's for: finding the low spots.

 

[TonUp]

a "guide coat" of a contrasting color will save you a world of heartache, letting you spot--and correct--low spots, or bad body-filler junctures, etc before you put on the final coat...well worth the time spent

 

[buzznichols]

Huh, so there's a word for that. Thanks!

 

[rocketman]

Great read! My local body shop sells the spraymax stuff. I am doing two tone with panels and a stripe. Would i be better off with the 1k as base then 2k clear it or 2k with paint and clear? Theres going to be some decals to be cleared over

 

[djg42]

I'm painting my tank satin black. I have the primer in and a nice finishing coat of the satin black on. Do I have to clear cost it too? I like Darin black because it's less shiny, but last time I painted a tank, gas stripped the clear cost and paint right down to the primer. How can I prevent this from happening again?
Thanks!
Dennis

 

[JustinLonghorn]

Dennis,

You have to use a two-stage clear coat. Spraymax sells a two-part clear coat in a can, called Spraymax 2K.

I highly recommend it.

 

[nbriles2000]

Has anyone tried using the spraymax 2 part clear with laquer yet? I really want to use a laquer, but not if it doesn't work with the spraymax clear Ive got a fiberglass seat pan I need to spray soon and I think I am going to follow this method, but is there is real change in the methods used because its fiberglass not bare metal?
Thanks for all of the useful information in this thread!

 

[onetruepunk87]

Duplicor White Sandable Primer - Duplicolor Ford Wimbledon White - Spraymax 2k Clear

More proof this method works. This thread helped a lot!

 

[RoadRash]

Yes, the Duplicolor paints really seem to play well with the Spraymax. Exactly what I used on my bike and had zero issues.

 

[buzznichols]

Onetruepunk,

Loooove the Wimbledon white! Same color that made the first Mustangs so pretty, and it sure looks sweet on that Honda tank!

 

[onetruepunk87]

Loooove the Wimbledon white! Same color that made the first Mustangs so pretty, and it sure looks sweet on that Honda tank!

Thanks! It was a Mustang that sold me on the color combo.