"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

I would say yes, but, you use 1500 grit and plenty of water (i use a little hand soap as well)
 
Took some time and prep to get a high gloss smooth finish for my triple

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Finished the front fender (homemade fibreglass), undercoated, painted (to match the silver stripes on my tank and fairing) and clearcoated to finish off. All rattle can paint, although my fairing is at the painters today getting done as I wanted 2K for that.

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Cheers
Steve
 
Thats looking great mate 8) shouldnt worry bout ya doin other parts looks like you got the knack of painting with the cans ;) and hey if ya go wrong it always flats out ready to start again only wasted time n a couple of rattlecans the parts always still there ;D havin a go is what we're all about gud luck mate
 
Hey, this thread is gold! I've read it over and over. Question in regards to engine painting: I see people like VHT, etc - but what about Rustoleum engine paint? Have you had good experience with it? I was "thinking" the 500* primer, then 500* paint. This a winning combo?
 
I did a engine paint how to on here somewhere... yoiu are stop on just be sure you primer coat is very light
 
Awesome. I found some engine threads, but even 37pages in this thread made it hard to find. Thanks for the confirmation! Now if I could figure out how to get these freakin paper gaskets off easier...
 
Last summer I painted my wife’s bike using the steps on the first page and it came out fine. It wasn't perfect, but I was happy with it. Then on a very hot and humid day a month or so after I finished painting, I ruined all my hard work. It was about to rain so I grabbed a tarp and threw it over our bikes. I completely forgot about it a day later and when I removed the tarp, it had made indentations/impressions in my new paint job. CRAP!!!

Now I am finally up to fixing my mistake. Once the weather gets a little warmer I want to paint again. I'm not sure the indentations are all the way through to the color or just in the clear coat. Is it possible to sand them down without going all the way to primer?

So far my plan was to sand with 800 grit paper to get the indentations out. I want to get rid of them but attempt to keep the color layer intact and not burn through to the primer. Then once all the clear was sanded off I was going to but on another 2 layers of color and 2 layers of clear. Wait 48 hours, wet sand with 1000 grit then go through the clear process again.

I don't have a DA sander so I will be attempting to do the sanding by hand. Sanding by hand worked ok when painting last time. Can’t afford a compressor and DA sander right now.

Please let me know if there are any flaws in my logic. I appreciate any help.

Its the green bike in the photo below.

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Curves on bike parts are much greater than the flat panels on cars so a DA isn't needed (plus, you really don't have much surface area in comparison) I wouldn't even think about a DA unless I was in business doing paint
 
crazypj said:
Curves on bike parts are much greater than the flat panels on cars so a DA isn't needed (plus, you really don't have much surface area in comparison) I wouldn't even think about a DA unless I was in business doing paint

Thanks!!!
 
It says if you want a satin or semi gloss finish to use a satin or semi gloss paint. This does not matter. It doesn't matter what level of gloss your paint is if you are putting a satin or semi gloss clear on top of it. Doesn't matter if your black is matte/flat/satin/semi gloss or whatever, you put gloss clear over it and it is gloss black.
 
m511y said:
Last summer I painted my wife’s bike using the steps on the first page and it came out fine. It wasn't perfect, but I was happy with it. Then on a very hot and humid day a month or so after I finished painting, I ruined all my hard work. It was about to rain so I grabbed a tarp and threw it over our bikes. I completely forgot about it a day later and when I removed the tarp, it had made indentations/impressions in my new paint job. CRAP!!!

Now I am finally up to fixing my mistake. Once the weather gets a little warmer I want to paint again. I'm not sure the indentations are all the way through to the color or just in the clear coat. Is it possible to sand them down without going all the way to primer?

So far my plan was to sand with 800 grit paper to get the indentations out. I want to get rid of them but attempt to keep the color layer intact and not burn through to the primer. Then once all the clear was sanded off I was going to but on another 2 layers of color and 2 layers of clear. Wait 48 hours, wet sand with 1000 grit then go through the clear process again.

I don't have a DA sander so I will be attempting to do the sanding by hand. Sanding by hand worked ok when painting last time. Can’t afford a compressor and DA sander right now.

Please let me know if there are any flaws in my logic. I appreciate any help.

Its the green bike in the photo below.

beautiful-cafe-racer-at-2012-charm-city-mods-vs-rockers.jpg
I'm still trying to grasp that after a month in hot weather your paint had still not cured? I would use different paint if rattle canning or use a different mix in my paint. That's one of the pluses for powder coating , it is cured and ready for service as soon as cools from the oven.
 
m511y said:
So far my plan was to sand with 800 grit paper to get the indentations out. ...

Please let me know if there are any flaws in my logic. I appreciate any help.
It would be worth your while to head over to the Autopia forums to read up on paint correction techniques. There are many how-to articles that detail the steps to be taken to correct flaws just like the ones you've encountered on your bike. It should go OK with hand sanding because you will quickly acquire a touch that will balance speed of correction and aggressiveness of cut. Starting off with 800 is a good idea because it will not be too aggressive.
 
I got a question. Im painting my wheels with black vht engine enamel and I want to paint the fork cover/headlight mount the same color black. would it be better if I go with guide here, meaning primer, coat then clear or can I just strip the paint of the cover and spray it with engine enamel?
 
Can you use this method on an engine as well as high temperature areas? I have engine enamel spray paint but was wondering if I need to get a different type of primer and clear coat?

Cheers.
 
So what is the general consensus on duplicolor paired with spraymax clear? Which plays nicer, the enamel or the lacquer? What about the "Perfect Match" line from duplicolor. It doesn't say enamel or lacquer, so I assume its lacquer.
 
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