Real back in the day survivor

xb33bsa

New Member
surffly said:
Might try it on the front side.

Issue is that as the axle moves up and down with the suspension the angle of the brake stay moves.
that front brake plate needs to be full floating
cool project but those clubmans don't look right on there thats just my opinion tho,and i think you'll look funny riding it with them
 

xb33bsa

New Member
let me add that the front brake plate MUST be full floating UNLESS the stay arm is connected to the linkage plate,whatever its called the s shaped piece that the front axle attaches
in order for the front brake plate to be truly floating it must have bushings at each end of the brake stay arm to allow movement on its center bearing
 

surffly

New Member
Heim joints will be installed to let the brake plate move freely.

The pictures are at a funny angle, but the bars look good in person, and are very comfortable for me.

Once cleaned up and outside for real pictures it should look better.
New battery came in.
Bought a new headlight and installed it.
Replaced the old cracked plastic fuse holder with a new one.
Figured out how to fab up a tail light and plate mount. Got the material so that's the next and final project before she heads to the bar.
After a few shake down runs I hope to see what's leaking oil and fix it, but my fingers are crossed the garage elves fixed it already.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Head gasket needs changing, it's 'too many fins down' I used to change mine at 4 fins from head gasket but it will spray some oil at 3 fins down. The 'O' rings on oil feed go hard and leak, I counterbored mine and fitted dowls plus copper head gasket, that pretty much cured the problem permanently
Pretty sure those forks are assembled wrong, lower links should put spring section more or less parallel to 'fixed' section, looks to me like someone deliberately swapped them left to right to get front end even higher?
The brake torque arm should never be 'in compression' so that is definitely wrong
 

surffly

New Member
Forks are correct from my research.
When the weight of the bike and me are on them the link sits parallel.




I figured the head gasket really needs to be changed.
Was hoping to make it through this season and do the motor over the winter.
Would like to add a few HP to it at that time.
 

xb33bsa

New Member
heims would be ideal with a sturdy connection between the 2
wont hurt to have a sturdy short brake arm in compression on that lashup
cool project all around i like it
 

xb33bsa

New Member
surffly said:
Forks are correct from my research.
When the weight of the bike and me are on them the link sits parallel.




I figured the head gasket really needs to be changed.
Was hoping to make it through this season and do the motor over the winter.
Would like to add a few HP to it at that time.
heck thats what depends are for i run them in the skidplate of my goldstar ;D
change em out every ride keeps the small leakage at bay and offa the rear tar
 

surffly

New Member
Why does it matter compression vs tension?
Can't be a failure thing as a bar will break in tension faster.
Worried about the arm bending?
 

xb33bsa

New Member
tension is better for a long skinny liteweight link, compression tends to want to fold a liteweight link
but you reall want the stay arm on that front end to be under compression,like you have it, as it makes for an anti-dive situation effectively stiffining up your front suspension when you apply the brake
i would use 3/8" heims and braze some nuts into some 5/8" tubing for a stay arm OR just use 3/8" female heims and thread some 3/8" rod on each end
either way is overkill
 

hillsy

Active Member
surffly said:
To me it looks like you need to rotate the brake plate anti-clockwise about 120 deg and mount the brake stay forward of the axle. This would move the cable to run almost up the springer leg as well.
 

surffly

New Member
Having some issues with the carbs on my chopper.

Took them all apart, cleaned, soda blasted and polished them.
While apart I installed Honda OEM gasket kits with new orings.
Set the floats to 22mm using a Honda OEM tool measuring from the base.
Also checked to make sure they were sealing by blowing air via mouth into the carb fuel in and holding the floats at 22mm. They drop a bit and air flows, at 22mmm no flow.

Installed on bike and they leak. Some times.
Some times it's like a garden hose and fuel comes out the drains and out the mouth of the carb.
Once there was no leak but after starting it leaked....and we had a small fire....not good at all.

So I adjusted the carbs to a level that they don't leak, but the bike will not hold rpm as it runs out of fuel.

What gives?
Plan to take them all back apart and see if something jumps out at me.

Also the stock jets are installed 100/38
Not sure what I should get for the stacks and drag pipes.
Ill order some brass ASAP.
 

SONICJK

Reminds me of...me No, I'm sure of it. I hate him
My 400f does the same damn thing. I cant figure it out.
I think the valve intermittently sticks open somehow? Possibly contaminants in the fuel?

I swear every time I fill up with gas it is running just fine, no leaks, and then when i toss it on the center stand it starts leaking all over the damn place until I turn the fuel off. When I turn it back on it stops. I dont understand at all.
 

teazer

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
We had the same problem with a pair of CB77 Keihin carbs on a CB160 race bike and every time it turns out to be the gasket just touching the floats. Sometimes it's OK and the next time it pisses fuel everywhere. We tried genuine Honda rubber gaskets and keihin and they all cause the problem. Fix was a very sharp Exacto knife to trim a little material off the inner faces of the gaskets.
 

surffly

New Member
Took a good look and can't see evidence that the float is rubbing on the bowl.
Kinda hard as I can't see inside the bowl when the bowl is on...lol

Will strip them down and see what's what.
Maybe it's just something stupid.
22mm isn't a misprint in the manual right?

Crappy cell phone pictures







And what's better then some finned covers for a bike that's not running?


 

surffly

New Member
The bushings in the throttle pivot are shot and the cable mount is now damaged.

Long story short I need a whole rack or at least the plate part.
 

surffly

New Member
Got some new brass.
Fishing lures were just to meet the min for free shipping.
Have 38/42 and 100/105/110/115 on hand to tune.
Also got new float seats to cure the original issue that caused the fire.




Rack of carbs to be used to replace the broken parts from the rack on the bike.



Bought a Morgan Carbtune.
Exchange rate is great so I had to have one



Is is the bushing in the carb rack that failed



Maybe over the winter when the head is off for a new head gasket it will get a big bore and these...



But for now it trying to figure out if I should keep the orange stacks or swap them for something else that matches better.
 

surffly

New Member
Dug up some charging parts.
Figured I would swap on in and "band-aid" the system for the rest of the season.



Over the winter ill build a proper harness and swap in a solid state rec/reg




Made a tail light bracket.
Nothing special, just some thing simple.




Also got an oil cooler adaptor. It's for a 750, but I think it should be the same for the 550.
Need to find an actual cooler.
 
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