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So in an attempt to switch out my stock bars for clubmans, I ruined a perfectly working bike. When removing the stock starter switch/throttle assembly, the red and blue wires were ripped from the switch. Then the throttle assembly snapped.
I'm planning on getting these to replace my stock switch and throttle assembly:
You will just have to connect the wires from the original switch to your new switch. How you do that is up to you. You can use original type connectors or you can solder.
Another route you can take it mount a momentary switch anywhere on the bike if you are looking to clean up the bars. All the starter switch does is power up the starter solenoid so any momentary switch should work.
It's a 1975, not sure if early or late. The two wires that got yanked out of the starter switch were red and blue; I believe the red is the starter and the blue is the headlight. I may just try soldering them back onto the switch, but the angle at which I would have to solder them would be a bit awkward. A brand new switch would be nice, but my soldering skills are not exactly the best.
This switch has a terminal block at the end of it, but my CB360 doesn't have anywhere for me to drop this in; would I have to slice off the terminal block in order to wire it into my bike?
There is no on-off switch on the right pod, just the start button and off-run-off switch. The left pod controls the headlight lo-hi beam. I'm assuming my bike is a late 75.
Would the replacement switch in my last post drop into my wiring successfully? I'm guessing I'll have to solder the wires in.
Probably not quite right. The starter switch is a single pole, double throw that disconnect the headlight when starting. I doubt the aftermarket does that. There are ways around it. Have the switch work a double throw relay or add a headlight off switch you can turn off manually when you need e-start. You could rewrite the solenoid then to be ground to start.
Or fix your pod or replace it. I replaced mine with a later model cb600 right pod. The starter switch had 2 switches, so I commoner one side and it acts like a stdp switch.
If you don't have a schematic, I may be able to email you a large PDF clean copy. Pm me your email addy if you need it
Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
Hey Mydlyfkryzis, the switch I linked is a single pole, double throw switch. I picked it so it would work like stock - the picture below has the switch contacts labeled. It also fits in the stock hole on the control pod - nifty! ;D
hey there I recently replaced all my switches/throttle when I swapped bars, PO had cracked the right side switch/throttle unit so I just swapped everything. I've got a 75 200t I'm assuming they're fairly similar. I ordered the 12-0202(I think, the other simple start on off switch DCC has) and that was a perfect swap. blue/white wire that connects to the left side switch(headlight power and kill when starter button is engaged) and then your standard black hot for power and a black/white that goes to your ignition coil inside your headlamp. easy plug and play just had to attach the included bullet connectors.
So I installed a new Radio Shack open momentary switch, and after I assembled everything and tried to start her up, the neutral light slowly faded away. No power.
The bike's been sitting about 2 weeks. Could the battery have drained during this time? I have a spare that I'll wire in tonight.
Yea, the batteries do tend to drain, especially the lead acid ones. I have a Battery Tender brand charger that I plug my bikes into when they are sitting to keep the battery topped off.
Do you have a multimeter to check the battery voltage with? You can get them pretty inexpensively at Harbor Freight, Radio Shack, etc. if you don't have one.
I switched out the battery with a new one, but the new one's been sitting as well. I also found that the main fuse was blown, so I replaced that. Still no power.
I checked the voltages of both the batteries with the multimeter, and it's reading 12v, so I'm assuming their charge is fine. Maybe I'm checking it wrong?
The only electrical changes I made were the replacing of the push-start switch and the main fuse replacement. I'm not sure if the kill switch determines whether the bike gets power or not, but if it does, then maybe I screwed up with wiring in the switch.
I used an open momentary switch for the push-start - is that the right one? Or should I have gotten a closed switch?
FYI 12V is a dead battery, less than 20% charge. A fully charged Battery is 12.6 volts. The 0.6 volt is the important part.
Get a charger....You only ruin batteries letting them discharge....A Battery Tender is best (or equivalent) that charges and then floats the charge after the battery is full...
My batteries are lasting over 5 years (My 750 battery was installed in June 2007) and replaced a battery that was over 7 years old.
Kept charged and filled (use only distilled water) the battery can last a lot longer than "average".
I leave my batteries on a charger whenever I am not riding. I have a Battery Tender + for the 750, and a Battery Tender Jr. for the 360.
Pretty sure the battery's shot. It's a Duraboost from Cycle Gear which was installed in July. I let it sit out in 40 degree temps at night for about 2 weeks without charging while wired in. Immediately after charging, the neutral light will stay on for about a minute, and once I try to start it, the lights will cut out. I'm guessing at this point that the only solution is getting a fresh battery and keeping it charged with the battery maintainer. Lesson learned (the hard way)
I like http://www.batterystuff.com for gel cells. I let my 650's gel discharge, and it came back from the dead with no problems. Worth the $65 or whatever I paid for it, and they have quick free shipping.
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