Restoration of a 74 RD350

[Gpfan]

Do they perform in the sky?We have a small airport near us. The practice area is above my house. Sometimes we get double wingers doing tricks and letting out trails of different colors. I am also 30 miles as the crow flies from Cape Canaveral. The Space Shuttle launches were unbelievable. The space x rockets launching now are ok. The launches are so regular now. I don't try to watch every single one.

Time we got some things straight:

1) I'm just a blow-hard, interweb, arsehole that happened to own a few bikes in the 80s and 90s that most Yank bikers with a brain would kill for.

2) I do not have the skills, money, nor patience to make the models the chap in question made (read the link).

3) They are not real aeroplanes. They were made with junk the chap had lying around. Quite interesting. He does/did tours for a charitable donation.

PS: I have often been accused of being a total fucking arsehole or incredibly funny when I have had no idea what the person was talking about because I can be a total dope. I call it 'going through life with my heid up my arse syndrome'. A perfect example is above, where I wrote: "... most Yank bikers with a brain would kill for." I had originally typed: "most Yank bikers would give their right arm for!"

Fortunately, my feeble brain and its faulty memory banks screemed mere seconds before I hit "post reply". But, I had to own up to it.


FINALLY

D) Time we stopped with my highjack of your thread. No-one else wishes to read this shyte. Get back to YOUR work, and we shall all just follow. And I will shut the FU.

 

[crazypj]

Takes me back.
I was running workshop in a Suzuki/Yamaha dealers so got to ride all of them many times (without having to buy them .
Had a really nice 'test route' around coast on 'B' roads, Bridgend, Ewenny, Ogmore-by-sea, Southerndown, St. Brides, Ewenny, Bridgend, 10 miles, ten minutes.
It's all 30mph limit nowadays with speed camera's on the 'fun parts'
First RZ350's in Britain from Brazil were restricted, would barely do 75mph, had to put temporary MPH sticker on speedo as they came with KM
Kits hadn't arrived from Japan to convert to European spec.
I forget what parts were changed but they went back to 'normal Yamaha' RTS 130mph (Yamaha always had Race Tuned Speedo that read 20~30mph 'fast' once you got over ~75ish)
In Britain, speedo had to read within 10% of indicated at 30mph and 70mph, 'built up area's' and motorway.
We got RD500 YPVS instead of RZ500 YPVS, not sure what the differences were though? (BNG? - bold new graphics )
RG500 Gamma was 'quite fun' but don't remember a lot about it, never got inside one.
I really liked the RG 250, not only first alloy box section frame but basically the old GT250 with water-cooling.
Handled incredibly well, but 'only' 110 mph.
Probably a good thing as you really didn't need to shut off or brake for most corners, just go round flat on the tank and lean a bit further.
I preferred it to the RGV which was faster and 'GP spec' V-twin but bit too 'twitchy' on bumpy bends at 100mph+
One afternoon we had RD and RG in for service, plus a repaired Honda CX500Turbo (sticking waste-gate, RAF air frame fitted owned it. and wanted everything 'by the book' )
When fixed CX was boring as hell, but, disconnected waste-gate it went from 25mph to 110mph (in 30 limit) crazy quick, faster than the RD or RG, didn't even change gear!
I called Honda UK and asked about boost with waste-gate disconnected, (I had moved from Honda dealers across street few months earlier and had number)
Someone at HUK obviously tested it as they said max 52psi boost, then cut out to protect motor which is exactly what happened.
Had to wait 30 seconds before things could be re-set.

 

[Last Chance]

Time we got some things straight:

1) I'm just a blow-hard, interweb, arsehole that happened to own a few bikes in the 80s and 90s that most Yank bikers with a brain would kill for.

2) I do not have the skills, money, nor patience to make the models the chap in question made (read the link).

3) They are not real aeroplanes. They were made with junk the chap had lying around. Quite interesting. He does/did tours for a charitable donation.

PS: I have often been accused of being a total fucking arsehole or incredibly funny when I have had no idea what the person was talking about because I can be a total dope. I call it 'going through life with my heid up my arse syndrome'. A perfect example is above, where I wrote: "... most Yank bikers with a brain would kill for." I had originally typed: "most Yank bikers would give their right arm for!"

Fortunately, my feeble brain and its faulty memory banks screemed mere seconds before I hit "post reply". But, I had to own up to it.


FINALLY

D) Time we stopped with my highjack of your thread. No-one else wishes to read this shyte. Get back to YOUR work, and we shall all just follow. And I will shut the FU.

No problem "highjacking", I kept asking questions.
Plus I received some info about bikes that I didn't know.
You don't have to worry about mentioning missing body parts. I have a ton of amputee jokes. My skin isnt thin, plus I need to start working on the RD350 again. That way the posts will be why the thread was originally made.
Going to order the 2K urethane (gloss black) for the frame today. I need to start putting some hrs into the bike. My original idea was to have the bike done by the middle of August 26. That's when the Dream Cruise on Woodward Ave is. The event is near Detroit Michigan and Woodward Ave was one of the first roads paved in the U.S. For about 8 miles there is bumper to bumper cars and bikes. All yrs,makes and models 2 lanes north, 2 lanes south.
Anyways the idea is to have one of my sons. Drive the bike at the cruise. So I need to start wrenching.

 

[Gpfan]

No problem "highjacking", I kept asking questions.
Plus I received some info about bikes that I didn't know.
You don't have to worry about mentioning missing body parts. I have a ton of amputee jokes. My skin isnt thin, plus I need to start working on the RD350 again. That way the posts will be why the thread was originally made.
Going to order the 2K urethane (gloss black) for the frame today. I need to start putting some hrs into the bike. My original idea was to have the bike done by the middle of August 26. That's when the Dream Cruise on Woodward Ave is. The event is near Detroit Michigan and Woodward Ave was one of the first roads paved in the U.S. For about 8 miles there is bumper to bumper cars and bikes. All yrs,makes and models 2 lanes north, 2 lanes south.
Anyways the idea is to have one of my sons. Drive the bike at the cruise. So I need to start wrenching.

Been to Detroit many times. Will not go there now, but that is not a discussion we need to discuss here. Went for all of the races when they were still F1. Been to The Joe many times for Dead Things games. AND went to Woodward a few times (a couple of Friday nights and a couple of Saturday nights) to see the vaunted 'cruises'. Didn't ever really see any cool cars (except mine! haha!).

Quite liked The Big D. Literally bumped into Niki Lauda at the Renaissance Centre, one day. Those Grands Prix were a blast.

 

[Gpfan]

Takes me back.
I was running workshop in a Suzuki/Yamaha dealers so got to ride all of them many times (without having to buy them .
Had a really nice 'test route' around coast on 'B' roads, Bridgend, Ewenny, Ogmore-by-sea, Southerndown, St. Brides, Ewenny, Bridgend, 10 miles, ten minutes.
It's all 30mph limit nowadays with speed camera's on the 'fun parts'
First RZ350's in Britain from Brazil were restricted, would barely do 75mph, had to put temporary MPH sticker on speedo as they came with KM
Kits hadn't arrived from Japan to convert to European spec.
I forget what parts were changed but they went back to 'normal Yamaha' RTS 130mph (Yamaha always had Race Tuned Speedo that read 20~30mph 'fast' once you got over ~75ish)
In Britain, speedo had to read within 10% of indicated at 30mph and 70mph, 'built up area's' and motorway.
We got RD500 YPVS instead of RZ500 YPVS, not sure what the differences were though? (BNG? - bold new graphics )
RG500 Gamma was 'quite fun' but don't remember a lot about it, never got inside one.
I really liked the RG 250, not only first alloy box section frame but basically the old GT250 with water-cooling.
Handled incredibly well, but 'only' 110 mph.
Probably a good thing as you really didn't need to shut off or brake for most corners, just go round flat on the tank and lean a bit further.
I preferred it to the RGV which was faster and 'GP spec' V-twin but bit too 'twitchy' on bumpy bends at 100mph+
One afternoon we had RD and RG in for service, plus a repaired Honda CX500Turbo (sticking waste-gate, RAF air frame fitted owned it. and wanted everything 'by the book' )
When fixed CX was boring as hell, but, disconnected waste-gate it went from 25mph to 110mph (in 30 limit) crazy quick, faster than the RD or RG, didn't even change gear!
I called Honda UK and asked about boost with waste-gate disconnected, (I had moved from Honda dealers across street few months earlier and had number)
Someone at HUK obviously tested it as they said max 52psi boost, then cut out to protect motor which is exactly what happened.
Had to wait 30 seconds before things could be re-set.

You a Taff? If so, don't start bloody well singing or going on about bloody coal mines or Mark Williams!

Around the world, we all got the RD series of bikes. The last series was the RD350LC (you also got the 250), ending in 1982. As of 1983, Yamaha had the YPVS (power valve). We/they/Yamaha Canada/Japan called them RZ350F (YPVS). In the UK and European markets, they were called the RD350F YPVS. These bikes, up to the RZ350N were assembled in Japan. In the late 80s, some were assembled in Spain for particular markets. Production went to Brazil in the early 90s.

As for the 500s, there were three basic types. For Canada and Australia, it was called the RZ500V. The official name was RZ500, but there was a big "V4" RIGHT THERE in the graphics, right after the name, so most folk took to calling it RZ500V. This bike had a steel frame painted to look aluminium. Rated at 85 or 90 HP (I can't remember), the carbs came with main jets 5,764 sizes too big. In the UK it was called RD500LC. By and large the exact same as the Canada/Australia bike but the motor was slightly different and rated at 10 HP more. In Japan, it was the fucking Mac daddy of 500s. Aluminium frame, fancier gubbins, and so on, BUT, the engine was restricted for the local market (60 HP?). So, the dream would be the RZV500R (Japan) bike with the RD500LC motor.

About the Gammas 500 and 250, they both had aluminium frames (the 250 came out two or three years before the 500). The 250 was near-enough hammering out RZ350 horsepower, but much lighter and far more expensive. Essentially the 500 was just two 250 engines geared together and rated at about 90 or 95 HP. The RG500 Gamma was lighter than the non-Japanese RD/RZs and only slightly heavier than the RG250. It also had more power and a highly grenadable transmission. It was cool AF! I loved it.

And with the Honda bike, the NS400R, here it cost more and weighed more than the 500 Gamma, but really only had a wee bit more juice than an RZ350. But, IT WAS SOOO PRETTY. Mine was the Bleu, Blanc et Rouge avec jaune. We didn't get the Rothman's livery in Canada. Didn't get any photos of that bike and if I did, I can't find them now. Didn't have mine for too long. By then, the Canuck insurance companies were on to the two-stroke caper and I wasn't too keen on lashing out outrageous amounts of money for a toy.

 

[Last Chance]

Question for you all, any small brackets painted with black frame paint. Do I need to take down to bare metal then prime and paint? Or just scuff up and repaint? Also the kickstand?
I am using 2k black urethane.

 

[Rider52]

Depends on the condition of the original paint on the brackets. If the paint is dull with no rust I generally scuff and repaint. If rusted or deeply scratched I go to bare metal, prime and paint. If the bracket paint is in very good condition but dull, I have brought back the finish with rubbing compound and wax.

 

[Last Chance]

Thanks for the info. I am waiting for the humidity to drop here in Florida. Before I start painting the frame. In the meantime I have been collecting parts that I need.

 

[Luugo86]

Question for you all, any small brackets painted with black frame paint. Do I need to take down to bare metal then prime and paint? Or just scuff up and repaint? Also the kickstand?
I am using 2k black urethane.

I've always used a wire wheel to clean off kickstands and spray them with that chip-resistant BBQ paint you can find at hardware stores.

 

[Last Chance]

Thanks for the info

 

[jpmobius]

Seems like a lot of trouble (and expense!) to paint bits and bobs with 2K. Single stage 2K Urethane will (unless altered) be super shiny compared to any OEM black frame paint. I like engine paint spray cans for quick little parts. Cheap, super easy, and pretty durable if you bake it. If you're wanting to do anything remotely like a restoration, you'll be well served to build the whole bike, then take it apart to paint it. That way, all the parts will be uniformly perfect shiny black, and since you can paint everything at once, you won't waste a bunch of expensive 2K.
I live in Florida too, and what I do is, get everything ready to shoot everything in epoxy primer. I have a healthy compressor and crappy sandblaster, but I blast everything and epoxy prime straight away before the humidity takes hold. Within the hour. That way you can take your time getting to shooting the black and massaging any rough spots in the primer because the ultra bare steel was protected quickly. I've been doing frames this way for a long time, and have chassis over 20 years old that still look perfect with no rust.
This would be a problem if you can't sandblast yourself, but I reckon you could get good results sanding/wire wheeling etc and brushing/wiping the bare steel with a converter (like Ospho) to prevent rust before you paint.

 

[Last Chance]

Seems like a lot of trouble (and expense!) to paint bits and bobs with 2K. Single stage 2K Urethane will (unless altered) be super shiny compared to any OEM black frame paint. I like engine paint spray cans for quick little parts. Cheap, super easy, and pretty durable if you bake it. If you're wanting to do anything remotely like a restoration, you'll be well served to build the whole bike, then take it apart to paint it. That way, all the parts will be uniformly perfect shiny black, and since you can paint everything at once, you won't waste a bunch of expensive 2K.
I live in Florida too, and what I do is, get everything ready to shoot everything in epoxy primer. I have a healthy compressor and crappy sandblaster, but I blast everything and epoxy prime straight away before the humidity takes hold. Within the hour. That way you can take your time getting to shooting the black and massaging any rough spots in the primer because the ultra bare steel was protected quickly. I've been doing frames this way for a long time, and have chassis over 20 years old that still look perfect with no rust.
This would be a problem if you can't sandblast yourself, but I reckon you could get good results sanding/wire wheeling etc and brushing/wiping the bare steel with a converter (like Ospho) to prevent rust before you paint.

This is my first time spraying in Florida. In Michigan we always stayed away from humidity. Was sure if painting a frame really mattered in humidity. But I didn't want to find out. Spraying Ospho on bare metal parts. Does that buy me time to get all parts prepped? I don't have a sandblaster and not sure I want to purchase one. I guess I could look for a used one and then hand down to my sons with all my other tools. With my health I am on borrowed time. I would like to think I have more than one restoration in me. The 350RD was the bike my buddies and I wanted in 74. Being 15 at the time that wasn't happening. So this bike is a bucket list thing. I guess I could have the guy that did my frame. I know he uses different mediums for sand blasting. So I would just have him use one that's not to aggressive. A few other members suggested to assemble everything then tear down and paint. Looks like that will be the game plan.
Thanks for the info
Ray

 

[Last Chance]

Can anyone tell if this is a front hub for a 74 RD350?
This wheel was put on the front so the bike would roll. Not going to use the wheel but wasn't sure about the hub.

 

[jpmobius]

So, by sandblaster, do you mean a cabinet or a total loss (outdoor) rig? A cabinet is vastly more useful, but you're probably not going to get one large enough for a frame!
This is a picture of a slightly altered RD frame ready for finishing. (The spot that looks rusty is some kind of wierd light reflection.) It has already been assembled into a complete motorcycle and taken back apart. It is only slightly altered. Delete centerstand, move sidestand mount (to accommodate aftermarket pipes), some "improved" welds, and some general cleanup (weld spatter, etc.). Aside from welding, nothing fancy, and mostly hand tools. I sandblasted this frame, but I would be perfectly comfortable just washing it (again), going over the whole thing with sandpaper (I wouldn't sand all the paint off, just any bad spots and feather the edges), and brushing Ospho into every crevasse I couldn't otherwise get to as an insurance policy. I'd wipe off any extra Ospho and shoot it with epoxy the next day after the Ospho dries. You only need Ospho on suspect spots that you can't prep adequately. Clean, smooth metal and paint get no benefit.
After the epoxy cures (and you have done likewise to all the rest of the parts), just scotchbrite and paint. Nothing fancy, and you can count on your work lasting a lifetime. I realize you already have your frame in primer, but the process is good for everything.
The wierd bolt through the steering neck is for mounting on a car engine stand. Super handy, spins around for easy blasting and painting.
Your hub looks original. Obviously the rim is not. The axle is definitely from another bike.

 

[Last Chance]

So, by sandblaster, do you mean a cabinet or a total loss (outdoor) rig? A cabinet is vastly more useful, but you're probably not going to get one large enough for a frame!
This is a picture of a slightly altered RD frame ready for finishing. (The spot that looks rusty is some kind of wierd light reflection.) It has already been assembled into a complete motorcycle and taken back apart. It is only slightly altered. Delete centerstand, move sidestand mount (to accommodate aftermarket pipes), some "improved" welds, and some general cleanup (weld spatter, etc.). Aside from welding, nothing fancy, and mostly hand tools. I sandblasted this frame, but I would be perfectly comfortable just washing it (again), going over the whole thing with sandpaper (I wouldn't sand all the paint off, just any bad spots and feather the edges), and brushing Ospho into every crevasse I couldn't otherwise get to as an insurance policy. I'd wipe off any extra Ospho and shoot it with epoxy the next day after the Ospho dries. You only need Ospho on suspect spots that you can't prep adequately. Clean, smooth metal and paint get no benefit.
After the epoxy cures (and you have done likewise to all the rest of the parts), just scotchbrite and paint. Nothing fancy, and you can count on your work lasting a lifetime. I realize you already have your frame in primer, but the process is good for everything.
The wierd bolt through the steering neck is for mounting on a car engine stand. Super handy, spins around for easy blasting and painting.
Your hub looks original. Obviously the rim is not. The axle is definitely from another bike.

View attachment 241977

Great idea with the bolt thru the steering neck. After seeing your frame I definitely went overboard having it sand blasted. The only rust was on the underside of the frame. I didn't think about a outside sandblaster. I think you can pick them up for a song at Harbour Freight. The axle bolt that came with it is like 3" to long. LOL
Again thanks for the info.

 

[teazer]

Can anyone tell if this is a front hub for a 74 RD350?
This wheel was put on the front so the bike would roll. Not going to use the wheel but wasn't sure about the hub.

The wheel in the earlier photos looks like a genuine RD350 with single disk, but the rim is either an aftermarket alloy rim or perhaps it came from one of the Yamaha 4 strokes of that era. 18" or 19"?

 

[Last Chance]

The wheel in the earlier photos looks like a genuine RD350 with single disk, but the rim is either an aftermarket alloy rim or perhaps it came from one of the Yamaha 4 strokes of that era. 18" or 19"?

Oops just looked back at my post. Forgot to post a picture. DUH!

 

[Last Chance]

The wheel in the earlier photos looks like a genuine RD350 with single disk, but the rim is either an aftermarket alloy rim or perhaps it came from one of the Yamaha 4 strokes of that era. 18" or 19"?

18" wheel

 

[Last Chance]

So, by sandblaster, do you mean a cabinet or a total loss (outdoor) rig? A cabinet is vastly more useful, but you're probably not going to get one large enough for a frame!
This is a picture of a slightly altered RD frame ready for finishing. (The spot that looks rusty is some kind of wierd light reflection.) It has already been assembled into a complete motorcycle and taken back apart. It is only slightly altered. Delete centerstand, move sidestand mount (to accommodate aftermarket pipes), some "improved" welds, and some general cleanup (weld spatter, etc.). Aside from welding, nothing fancy, and mostly hand tools. I sandblasted this frame, but I would be perfectly comfortable just washing it (again), going over the whole thing with sandpaper (I wouldn't sand all the paint off, just any bad spots and feather the edges), and brushing Ospho into every crevasse I couldn't otherwise get to as an insurance policy. I'd wipe off any extra Ospho and shoot it with epoxy the next day after the Ospho dries. You only need Ospho on suspect spots that you can't prep adequately. Clean, smooth metal and paint get no benefit.
After the epoxy cures (and you have done likewise to all the rest of the parts), just scotchbrite and paint. Nothing fancy, and you can count on your work lasting a lifetime. I realize you already have your frame in primer, but the process is good for everything.
The wierd bolt through the steering neck is for mounting on a car engine stand. Super handy, spins around for easy blasting and painting.
Your hub looks original. Obviously the rim is not. The axle is definitely from another bike.

View attachment 241977

I forgot to post pictures.

 

[Rider52]

I think we discussed this wheel earlier. It is not correct. Look back about Page 2 and you can see the comments.