Restoration of a 74 RD350

The guy that makes my prosthetics. Delivered more tools today for my prosthetic arm. Now I have full sets of SAE and Metric open and box end and more. The wrenchs are Craftsman and the knife is from Mossy Oaks. I was totally surprised.
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Luugo86 said:
Everyone here will attest that you never finish building your tool set, but yours is looking sweet so far !
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Thanks
I lost a lot of tools in the accident. They ended up scattered in the middle of I-75 in Georgia. Since I was in a coma. My wife didn't realize all that would be replaced by car insurance. So a claim was never made on a lot of stuff.
 
teazer said:
The front hub is OK (OEM) and the rim is fine but if you look at the spoke nipples, you can see that they are at odd angles. The wheel needs to be rebuilt and taht's the perfect excuse to clean things up and make 'em all shiny.
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I read a thread in here. A guy posted all his aluminum that he put quite a shine on. It was about close to chrome. He posted his process of doing it. I will continue to look for it. I don't think I made a comment. So I can't go in my content and find it.
 
'73, '74, and '75 models are very nearly identical, and as far as I know, are 100% interchangeable. Notable differences that could get you are the carburetor tops. The '75s had tall caps to allow longer slides. No tuning change, the longer slides reduce/eliminate the slides sticking/jamming when wet or dirty. Not generally a problem, and you could use the short slides with the tall caps except for needing the proper cable. There are 2 styles of petcocks, but they interchange, so not an issue unless you're going for a 100 point restoration. I'm sure there are other tiny differences, but you can safely buy anything from any year and have confidence it will fit. There are a lot of common parts from other Yamaha models of the same years (I seem to remember DT250 swingarm bushings are the same), but you'll have to research those individually. A K&N #RC-2600 will replace the airbox assembly, and mount to the stock Y boot with a cylinder made from a bean can (or corn, cranberries, etc - a very common can size is the exact size.) to connect them. A great mod if you don't want to change the stock look of the bike. Plus, the K&N is lifetime cleanable, and vastly better protected compared to individual filters, which can be a problem if caught in the rain. Makes the Y boot massively easier to install too. Getting it properly fitted to the stock box and carbs perfectly can be seriously frustrating, especially if the boot isn't new and super supple.
 
jpmobius said:
'73, '74, and '75 models are very nearly identical, and as far as I know, are 100% interchangeable. Notable differences that could get you are the carburetor tops. The '75s had tall caps to allow longer slides. No tuning change, the longer slides reduce/eliminate the slides sticking/jamming when wet or dirty. Not generally a problem, and you could use the short slides with the tall caps except for needing the proper cable. There are 2 styles of petcocks, but they interchange, so not an issue unless you're going for a 100 point restoration. I'm sure there are other tiny differences, but you can safely buy anything from any year and have confidence it will fit. There are a lot of common parts from other Yamaha models of the same years (I seem to remember DT250 swingarm bushings are the same), but you'll have to research those individually. A K&N #RC-2600 will replace the airbox assembly, and mount to the stock Y boot with a cylinder made from a bean can (or corn, cranberries, etc - a very common can size is the exact size.) to connect them. A great mod if you don't want to change the stock look of the bike. Plus, the K&N is lifetime cleanable, and vastly better protected compared to individual filters, which can be a problem if caught in the rain. Makes the Y boot massively easier to install too. Getting it properly fitted to the stock box and carbs perfectly can be seriously frustrating, especially if the boot isn't new and super supple.
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Thank you
 
Ok guys, picked up a bigger compressor, so probably on black friday. I will make a trip to harbor freight and get a baking soda blaster. Any brackets and other parts I will blast and prime the same day. Since I am using 2k epoxy primer. Once that is done, I will spray all primed parts plus frame with black 2k urethane. I know you all gave me different suggestions. But I had already invested in the paint. After that I will get into the motor.
Everyone have a great Thanksgiving
 
I have one of those HF soda blasters. It worked fine for me but does take a bit of patience and the blasting soda has to be kept dry dry dry.
 
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Last Chance said:
Ok guys, picked up a bigger compressor, so probably on black friday. I will make a trip to harbor freight and get a baking soda blaster. Any brackets and other parts I will blast and prime the same day. Since I am using 2k epoxy primer. Once that is done, I will spray all primed parts plus frame with black 2k urethane. I know you all gave me different suggestions. But I had already invested in the paint. After that I will get into the motor.
Everyone have a great Thanksgiving
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awesome man, looking forward to seeing how the HF blaster cabinet turns out, I've been on the fence about one for a bit now.. happy holidays
 
ridesolo said:
Well... it's blasting soda that you buy in big bags. I don't remember, 10 or 20# bags? I keep mine in one of those 5 gal plastic bucket w/ a lid.
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I was thinking a 5 gallon pail also. Was just wondering if someone had a do or don't. I think living here in Florida. I might store the pail in the house. With the A/C running, we don't have problems with moisture in the house..
 
Last Chance said:
I was thinking a 5 gallon pail also. Was just wondering if someone had a do or don't. I think living here in Florida. I might store the pail in the house. With the A/C running, we don't have problems with moisture in the house..
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That would help a bunch, I'm sure. I experience a certain amount of clogging even during use that requires an occasional brisk shake of the soda/air tank. There would probably be less of that if starting off w/ good, dry soda. On another note, the stuff has been ballyhooed as being environmentally friendly and it just dissipates into the ground when it rains. That's somewhat true, but it takes a while.
 
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