It got really fun when Yamaha decided to call an XS650 a TX650 and then a state titled a 72 XS650 as a 73 XS650 when 73 and 74 was a TX650.
Restoration of a 74 RD350
- Thread starter Last Chance
- Start date
Luugo86
'73 CB350, '78 XS650 Cafe Killer
lol that sounds like a personally experienced debacle, Irk
Last Chance
Been Around the Block
So being my frame was built 1/73. I have a 73 frame. Will have to look at the title and see what it says.
Last Chance
Been Around the Block
Took the frame in to have the kickstand welded back on.
Last Chance
Been Around the Block
Yeah I tried looking at the hole and see if it was cut out. I couldn't tell, when I go pick up the frame. I will ask what they think.
Last Chance
Been Around the Block
The shop called and said the frame is ready. They suggested that I have the frame sandblasted. They don't sandblast big parts. So they weren't trying to make more money.
There is virtually no surface rust.
What do you all think?
There is virtually no surface rust.
What do you all think?
If I were building it for myself I'd consider a sandblast and paint or even powder coat, but since you really have no plans to actually own and ride the thing I'm not sure but just a clean-up and full spray or a touch-up where needed might be more economical and give you a great looking bike when you are done. Just my $0.02 worth.
Last Chance
Been Around the Block
Thanks for the replies. I am going to paint the frame opposed to powder coating. I guess I will see the cost of sandblasting then decide.
Luugo86
'73 CB350, '78 XS650 Cafe Killer
You can probably get by with a really thorough cleaning and home surface prep job with the frame if you wanted to, some of the rattle cans out there produce a great end result.
Rider52
Over 1,000 Posts
Let the blasting folks know you need medium grit or maybe even fine. Otherwise you will get a frame that looks like an old concrete sidewalk. Once blasted, it needs to be primed or it will start rusting. Also try to keep from touching it with bare hands...the oils from fingers do a lot of damage. Cheap disposable surgical type gloves work great.
Be sure and remove your fork bearing races before blasting if you plan to reuse them. Rustoleum Appliance epoxy paint in the spray can works great.
Be sure and remove your fork bearing races before blasting if you plan to reuse them. Rustoleum Appliance epoxy paint in the spray can works great.
Appliance Epoxy works great.
I have a local outfit that does blast + powder on a frame for under $200, which at this point is worth it to me. I hate painting frames, lol.
I have a local outfit that does blast + powder on a frame for under $200, which at this point is worth it to me. I hate painting frames, lol.
Last Chance
Been Around the Block
I am weighing my options right now. Talked to 2 different shops. The best price to sandblast the frame, swingarm and centerstand was 100 to 125. So now I decide if I clean it up or sandblast.
Last Chance
Been Around the Block
I am going to stick with paint. Most of my career at GM I was in paint repair. So I enjoy painting.
Last Chance
Been Around the Block
I have the heavy-duty nitrile gloves. They are black and don't rip nearly as easy as the blue gloves. I am going to research if I can get replacement roller bearings for the main steering stem. It had ball bearings and for some reason their was a small amount of water in there when I dropped the triple tree. So either way I will replace the races.
That’s a good price to sandblast.
Good thinking on painting. I personally prefer it to powder coating on frames. Lot's of good advice here, and good results too. Here's what I do. First, go over the entire frame carefully, and with a file - sander - grinder to smooth over any defects/hard corners/ mig welding wire/welding BBs etc. And now's the time to delete anything you're not going to use like helmet hooks or brackets/mounts. It's really important to epoxy prime immediately after blasting, so it's better to do it yourself if you can manage it. I realize this takes quite a lot of where-with-all, but the value of being able to paint straight away after blasting and being able to insure NOTHING touches or otherwise contaminates the frame before coating can not be overstated. I get everything completely prepared beforehand. Finish blasting, hang frame, wipe down with alcohol, ( I live in super humid Florida, alcohol absorbs moisture and evaporates quickly, and wiping removes dust from the blasting environment) and paint. My paint supplier (commercial, but sells to all) makes up anything in spray cans, including 2 part epoxy. Probably you can find this near you also. Point being, you should be able to get premium quality paint on there pretty cheaply. Blasting is harder, but if you have (or have access to) a compressor, you should be able to get diy blasting gear from Harbor Freight (etc) for not much more (maybe less!) than paying a pro. More importantly, you get total schedule and quality control, though you may pay for it with agonizingly slow blasting depending on your level of blasting gear. I think I use #40 sand, an epoxy primer/surfacer, and 2k urethane single stage paint. Usually paint straight over the primer once tacky. Sometimes sand in between if the primer doesn't lay down slick enough or I can't avoid overspray, but pretty flawless results pretty easy. And, a truly long lasting, super bomb proof end product.
Tapered roller direct replacement steering head bearings can be had from AllBalls. Recommend, though the stock set up is fine if you adjust it properly and aren't racing.
Tapered roller direct replacement steering head bearings can be had from AllBalls. Recommend, though the stock set up is fine if you adjust it properly and aren't racing.
Last Chance
Been Around the Block
Thanks for all the info. The bottom race on the steering head has some rust from the water that was in there. So I will replace top and bottom. I am thinking since I only have one good hand and a prosthetic on the other. Roller bearings might be easier to install. Instead of knocking ball bearings all over the place. LOL
Product Category: Steering Stem / Swingarm Bearings | Economy Cycle
www.economycycle.com
The bronze bushings are ok for the swing arm. (don't forget to paint this (along with a bunch of other parts) when you paint the frame!) It's good to mask the bushing bores to avoid difficulties pushing them in. Including the edges where paint can build up preventing the bushings from being pressed in ALL the way. This makes the arm too wide. What you REALLY need are the swing arm SHIMS:
Yambits : for Yamaha bikes
This shim is used to adjust the swing arm centre tube play. Use as many as required, each shim is 0.10mm thick. Suits: RD350 1973 RD350A 1974 RD350B 1975
These take up the side-to-side (axial) play. The bushings take up radial play. It's important to understand how the pivot assembly works to assemble and adjust it correctly. The assembly works by clamping the two inner steel bushings and spacer tightly between the two sides of the frame. These three parts do NOT rotate with the arm, but become part of the frame structure. When tight, along with the bolt, they function like a structural element of the frame, and the swing arm rotates around them. Correct assembly is a cut and try procedure. Assemble first with new bronze bushings and NO shims to be sure the arm moves freely with the bolt tight. It's possible for the flanges on the after market bronze bushings to be too wide, or not be pressed in fully, and you need to know this and correct it before proceeding. Assemble with thorough but minimal wheel bearing grease on everything. Add shims evenly on both sides (you can have an uneven number, just try to keep the arm centered) until the arm is tight, but not clamped in. With the bolt tight, the arm should just barely fall slowly by its own weight. You should be able to detect resistance when moving it by hand. This is simple enough, and may be obvious to some, but I rarely see this done properly, even by pros. No doubt accounts for the difficulty finding shims. I've even been argued to that there ARE no shims! WRONG! This is more important than you might think. You might not be able to put your finger on it, but when you ride, the bike will just seem 'tighter' or more secure and confidence inspiring. It's a fussy, time consuming job, but costs nearly nothing, and really is worth it!
