Shake the Box CL360/378 - The Hedgehog - Done

teazer said:
Sonrier would know the answer. He's more electrically oriented than I'll ever be. When I needed diodes for a Motoplat kill switch and I needed a pair to use in a single idiot light with LED blinkers, I just ordered a fairly large unit that seems to work. If you need a few to try, PM me and I'll mail you a couple.

If you have a singe idiot light for both indicators, check this out http://pinkpossum.com/Lights.htm

The DanMoto has a flashing light for each side. And using the K&S and the DanMoto together really seems to work well. the wire-up for it all is simple using a terminal strip.

Will send PM about diodes. Thanx!

EDIT: I just went through that link you sent and like I suspected, while my problem isn't the same, it's similar because the +12v lead that provides power to both the running light and the turns is common to both the turns. The engineers who designed the headlight should have been able to foresee this and build diodes into the circuit.
 
Diodes on the way! I'll give it a try and tell the story. I suppose if I was really ambitious I'd make up a drawing of what this is all about to illustrate the problem better than words. Thanx for the assist teazer!
 
ridesolo said:
AND if I can't get this issue worked out I'm getting bar-end mirrors that have a LED turn signal in them so I'll just abandon the turns in the light and use only the mirrors.
I had similar issues with LED bulbs and lights. They needed power full time and switched grounds. I just removed brake switch connectors and fitted separate ground leads to the switches. (taped up live feeds so I didn't get any short circuits) I don't know how you could do that for indicators though as switches are grounded through bars, probably have to fit some power diodes depending on wattage requirements of various lights?
 
crazypj said:
I had similar issues with LED bulbs and lights. They needed power full time and switched grounds. I just removed brake switch connectors and fitted separate ground leads to the switches. (taped up live feeds so I didn't get any short circuits) I don't know how you could do that for indicators though as switches are grounded through bars, probably have to fit some power diodes depending on wattage requirements of various lights?

In this case the switch isn't grounded at the bar and isn't an issue, it's a running light in the headlight unit that must be powered in order for the turn signals to work. (The turns and running lights use the same LEDs and just change from white to amber color when you turn on the blinker.) It wouldn't be a bad setup, really, if they had just designed it correctly. (And maybe I could say that perhaps it's designed correctly for some applications, but won't work for mine?)
 
I'm happy to report that the insertion of a diode into the lead for the turn signal does the trick as hoped! Now I can get this wiring stuff wrapped up and dive into the last few details. I appreciate the input on the problem from all who responded and teazer, especially, thank you! I'll post up a couple of pictures this afternoon.
 
OK, pictures promised, pictures given. As noted above, adding diodes into the +12v lines for the front turn signals did the trick and got them to work as they are suppose to.

Pix show the turn and running light on with the headlight turned off and turned on.

One issue, and another potential complaint about this light, is that the way it's made I'm not sure how visible the turn will be when the headlight is on, especially on high beam during the day. I don't think it'll be a problem when it's dark, but I'm glad that the bar end mirrors I've ordered have turn signals included. That'll just make me feel a bit more secure that I'm being seen when I'm out there among the blind cage drivers.



IMG_20191008_110438148.jpg
IMG_20191008_110518496.jpg
 
Last edited:
No worries mate. Glad that you are on top of it now.

It's the old saying about knowledge is power and I change that to read. Knowledge is most powerful when we share it with others.
 
i've got a headlight on the vmax with integrated turn signals in it and yes, i can assure you they are damn near invisible, day or night, high or low beam, not just due to the mixture of the lights in the unit but also because no-one's going to be looking there for an indicator flashing ( if the fcukwits are looking at all that is)

looks cool but a touch dangerous i'm thinking, might be time to put some better signals on, do you have a link to the bar end mirror ones, due to using hayabusa controls i have to use bar end mirrors so that might be my solution
 
teazer said:
No worries mate. Glad that you are on top of it now.

It's the old saying about knowledge is power and I change that to read. Knowledge is most powerful when we share it with others.
I like the similar quote, though it may come across a bit on the selfish side.

"Knowledge is the only thing that you can truly own, for you can sell it or give it away and still keep it"

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
spotty said:
i've got a headlight on the vmax with integrated turn signals in it and yes, i can assure you they are damn near invisible, day or night, high or low beam, not just due to the mixture of the lights in the unit but also because no-one's going to be looking there for an indicator flashing ( if the fcukwits are looking at all that is)

looks cool but a touch dangerous i'm thinking, might be time to put some better signals on, do you have a link to the bar end mirror ones, due to using hayabusa controls i have to use bar end mirrors so that might be my solution

PM sent.
 
I finished up the section of wiring harness for the font end; the headlight, turns, front brake light switch, and horn. After getting everything in and tested I decided to make life a bit easier (in the long run) and take it back out and have it match the harness for the K&S and the DanMoto by putting in an inline plug so there's an independent pigtail under the seat. It may not have been absolutely necessary but to my mind it seemed the way to go.

I believe I can say, "Done!" concerning the wiring. I do need to get in and try to tidy it up a bit but there's a bunch going on under there so I'm sure it'll never look like a road map. There's one empty space on the fuse block that I'll use for a combo digital voltage readout and USB charger port that I haven't found a place for yet. I also read somewhere that if the digital tach in the DanMoto puts out fluctuating numbers that a resistor may need to be added into the feed for that. Everything has been tested, I've got turns, headlight, hi and lo, tail light, brake lights, and horn. The DanMoto lights up and the idiot lights work.

I suppose the next step would be to dump in some oil, rig up a fuel bottle, and see if it'll start. Oh boy!
IMG_20190919_160305769.jpg
IMG_20190919_160246681.jpg
 
Last edited:
I keep tinkering w/ things while waiting for stuff to come in. I've know for some time that I needed to come up w/ a mount for the license plate. After a couple of false starts I grabbed the pair of old CB350 battery mount brackets I had laying around and worked them and some old aluminum aircraft parts.

Spray it up w/ some paint and it looks like it'll work ok.
IMG_20191016_162913885.jpg
IMG_20191017_170022732.jpg
IMG_20191017_170034538.jpg
 
Last edited:
3DogNate said:
Looks good. This thing has got to be super close to it's first ride isn't it?

Yep, it's getting there. Thank you.

pidjones said:
Looking prime. Sometimes that forced tinkering time while waiting for things can be very productive!

Thank you! Yeah, the tinkering time isn't a bad thing. There are seemingly endless things that need tinkered. The other day I spent a bunch of time getting the rear brake lever/return spring/brake light switch assembly all tuned up and working as it should. This, of course, included two trips to the hardware store to get the proper spring. It's been satisfying to finally get it all right (or at least acceptable) and apply the thread lock for the final assembly. The waiting thing is frustrating. At the moment I'm waiting for the sprockets, brake lines, and mirrors. The final real hurdle that I've GOT to get to (and keep putting off) is the throttle and clutch cables.

The BIG change to things comes today and I've got really mixed feelings about it. Today the trailer comes out of storage so we can start getting ready to get outa' here for the winter. Mixed feelings because it means I'll have much less time to put into the bike but on the other hand it means we're that much closer to getting ourselves out of the Ohio cold and crappy winter weather. I'm just hoping that the Honaki is about wrapped up in another month.
 
Sonreir said:
I love that mount. Fantastic accent piece for sure.

Thank you, Matt. As I was contemplating putting the thing together I started counting the number of different motorcycles that are represented in parts on this bike. Using the brackets from a CB350 brings the count up to 13. Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, and Suzuki are all represented. I guess I need to get a horn from a BMW or something to add to the eclectic spirit of the thing.

Anyway, here's a shot of that mount in place. I don't think it's too close to the tire but if it proves to be so I'll make adjustments.

The front brake line came in today. All installed and ready to go. I'll hold off brake fluid and bleeding until I get the mirrors installed as I'll have to take the clip ons apart to do that installation. But anyway, here it is installed: (Sorry, not the greatest pix.)

According to the tracking info the rear line is in as well but I didn't get out to the Post Office this afternoon to pick it up. Guess that'll be tomorrow's task.
IMG_20191021_164419993.jpg
IMG_20191019_201333766.jpg
 
Last edited:
i think you'll find that any bmw horn has built in sensors to detect non-approved use on a foreign bike and will therefore not function as Herr BMW intended, it will still make a noise but instead of going 'beep beep' it will go 'nein nein'
 
spotty said:
i think you'll find that any bmw horn has built in sensors to detect non-approved use on a foreign bike and will therefore not function as Herr BMW intended, it will still make a noise but instead of going 'beep beep' it will go 'nein nein'

Guess I'll just have to dig around and find a valve stem from a Hodaka or something. What am I saying. thirteen isn't enough?
 
Back
Top Bottom