So I guess I'll start another cb360 build thread......

atx360

Been Around the Block
So I've pretty well familiarized myself with the forum I think, and have already introduced myself. So I gues now is the point where I start my build thread.

I hope yall enjoy!

The bike was a throw away that I got for free about a year ago from a customer at my parts counter.( I was a parts manager at a big metric dealership here in austin for 4 years, now i am the finance mngr.) He said his wife was making him throw it out so I volunteered.

I neglected to take pictures of when I got it so my teardown was pictureless. :(

So currently I have a blasted frame, motor with a fresh top-end, ported polished head,
ceramic-coated internals and outer surface's from the jug up, a rusted out tank(which i'll get into)....Also I have a fresh set of mikunis and pods.

So what I have accompished today.
1. Finished chopping/smoothing the subframe.

2. Dented the sides of my rusty tank. I decided that I would do some experimenting with it and if it didnt work out, Screw it....but I really like the way its looking so I'm going to try to seal it up.

3. Reassembled my speedo with a new decal from sonreir.(kinda lost on how to get the ring to stay?)I'll post some pics of this tommorow.

Here are some pics........
 

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Pics of the holes in the tank......
 

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So does anybody have any suggestions as far as patching these holes from the outside?
Would jb weld suffice, Or should do real welds before lining the tank?

Input is appreciated.........
 
I'm still a noob at welding but it seems those small holes would be easy to hit with a small spot weld. JB Weld might be good but not as good as a metal on metal repair.

If the metal has rusted from the inside out to the point of holes popping thru, then the inside will be much worse.

My process for cleaning tank is too start with a couple gallons of 50-50 milkstone remover and water. Milkstone remover is a weak acid that turns rust to black metal (iron oxide into iron phosphate). You can find it a tractor supply. It is phosphoric acid (70%). It flash rusts after exposure, so rinse with water and blow dry. Then coat right away.
 
Have someone with a mig hit it for you. You're going to have to turn it down pretty low to keep from blowing holes in it. JB weld is a bad idea, and might work for a little while but fuel WILL eat through it. I've seen it happen on a few different tanks.
 
WOW. I just spent like a half hour writing a post and hit the post button and it told me file too large and lost the whole damn thing! :mad: :mad:

I'm too lazy to do it all again!

heres some pics
 

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The new decals turned out well(thanks sonreir) I probably shouldve been more anal about putting them back together?....But screw it they look better than they did.

The title fairies were good to me yesterday! I called the previous owner in el paso tx. He told me he wasnt comfortable with faxing me a copy of his Drivers license(which I totally understand these days!)So that I could apply for a new title through work.

But he called me back like 4 hours later and asked for my address. I thought NO WAY?
Sure enough he went to the title office and got me a new one!
GOOD KARMA.....Finally!

I offered to send him pics. He politely declined saying."NO I'd probably cry"
Very nice older man(70+) I wish I could repay him somehow!

I'd like some input on paint schemes(if anyone is reading)....

I'm thinking baby blue frame with gloss blk swingarm, fork legs, triple clamps, center stand....and matte blk tank and tins with some white/baby blue pinstriping. Also Im thinking more of a brat-style seat/tail so maybe blk seat with blue stitching! If I had any photo shop skills I'd make up a drawing... ;) ;)

Any input Is much appreciated
 
Some pics of the motor with the carbs mocked up.
Which leads me to yet another question, What are you all doing as far as mounts for the mikuni carbs?do the boots hold tight enough or are you fashioning some sort of mount??
They seem pretty tight but I'm not sure if its tight enough?

Thanks again.
 

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heres my gauges...speedo after new decal and old tach.
 

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Ok here's my go at some information and suggestions

TANK- The problem with pinhole rust like that is that it will continue to rust until there is no tank left unless you can find a way to stop it.
Sealing the inside of the tank will not help forever because the tank will continue to rust from the outside in.

What I do with stuff like that, because I'm a cheap ass, is try to fix the outside first. You can weld it or w/e but I happen to like just plain old soldering. Duct tape the holes shut, plug the petcock hole, Fill the tank with WATER, helps to keep the heat down and keeps the tank from exploding. The take a wire brush or a wire wheel on a grinder and pick a pin hole and brush the paint and the RUST off, be gentle about it as it will eat all the thin rusted metal out as well making Swiss cheese out of the tank. IF you make a bunch of holes by cleaning things up then just go find another tank. Keep working on the holes one set at a time till you have them all clean and bare metal.

The rest of the process involves getting out the soldering equipment and going to town. If need be I can write that up but I'm betting you find that tank gets pretty holey and will prolly need to be replaced anyway.

CARBS- the boots that go with the Mikuni's should do well enough to hold them in place, just make sure they are fully seated in them

FORUMS - If you plan on doing really long posts the advice is to type them out somewhere else first, like word or notepad and then copy and paste them into the panel. That way you don't loose the post. Second, if you FIND that you are typing a really long response, once you are done, highlight and copy all of it and then hit the submit button. That way if it messes up you can just open a new response and paste it in and done.

As far as the PO, keep in touch with him, maybe send a card or something when it is done or if possible go out and see them with the bike. Old memories shouldn't be let to die, you never know what that bike has been through in its life. I wish knew the PO from mine. When I got it was a storage find, last titled in 1982 in MICHIAGN and found in a storage in Oklahoma. Owner passed away and his wife gave power over the storage to a friend of mine's dad who sold me the bike. Bike prolly sat in that storage for 20 years. Had 22k miles on it so I know that they rode the heck of thing, I'd just love to know where its been.

Good luck.
 
Lookin' good, man! I'm glad those decals worked out for you. I think they look pretty good, but I may be partial. :)
 
Thanks for all the tips frogman. I will definately be pre-typing long post in word!

I got the title in the mail today. So that rocks!!! ;D

Also braised the tank, filed/sanded the welds and started lining it. I included a couple of pics of what we use at my work to line tanks and have had good luck with it.
thanks again for looking.
 

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the liner we use......
 

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So I feel like I’ve accomplished quite a bit since my last update…..
Finished filling and sanding the tank, I have cleaned and what I call polished, lots of bits (more natural than mirror finish). I have installed the all balls steering bearing kit, after three times of taking them apart and putting it back together I finally got it right (I think). It sure does turn smooth so that’s what’s important right? I also installed bronze swingarm bushings and new swingarm caps and grease zerk. I have about Finished cleaning up my rusty CL pipes and fashioned the mount for my mufflers. RE-installed the center stand and side stand, I can’t decide if I want to keep them both. I may just run side stand and then put the center stand on as I need it?
I have really started to contemplate my wiring, and could use some input/help! I definitely know that I want to keep it as minimal as possible. No electric start (PJ plug arrived today), No blinkers, only a neutral and high beam indicator, Headlight, taillight, gauge lights (led’s)…. You get the idea.
If anyone has any wiring pointers thanks!!
Yesterday buttoned up the forks. New seals and fluid, Let me state that I have never seen more disgusting boogery paste as what was inside those forks!
Today I dropped off the rest of the little bits at powder coat, so those should be done in the next few days.

Okay here is where I could really use some help. SEAT….
I know that I want a bratt-ish seat low slim profile that sits above the subframe but I can’t for the life of me decide how I want to attach it. I don’t want to have to mess with fiberglass if I don’t have to.I will need room for the electronics and battery, which I think I will do the antigravity. I have some nice sheet aluminum that I would like to use for the base, but don’t know how to attach the base to the frame and the seat to the base, so on and so forth.
Any suggestions?

also took a break and went to the local arena cross with the wife and boy..
sorry for the dark pics. I'll try to put up some good ones this weekend. ::)

Thanks for reading I’m sure I missed some but I think that’s enough for now!

Couple of pics
 

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For some ideas on seat attachments have a look at my XS650 thread.

I made one plate that hangs just below the frame rails, attached to the frame. Then the seat pan sits on rubber bumpers on the rails, and bolts pass through to the underside of the other plate. Hard to describe in writing. The electrical sits between.

You can see lots of the detail here: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=448.480

I also wired it from scratch - wiring diagram is in there somewhere :)
 
bike is looking great mate i have the same bars on my cb200. its looking like a lil brat so far i like it alot keep up the great work as i cant wait to see her done.
 
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