Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
I just want to confirm:
Assembling my CL360/378. I've got a black wire from the Reg/Rec, a black w/ white stripe wire from each coil, and the tachometer lead from my DanMoto digital dashboard. Should these all be connected together? (Have read that I may have to add a 10k, 1/2 watt resistor to the tach line to steady out the output, not sure about that.
OK. My K&S switch has a kill switch and the wire diagram for it shows two additional wires (beyond the nine that run to the plug) for the kill switch however those wires don't exist on my switch. I can take the switch body apart and see what the switch is wired to and run new ones if I need to. In the mean time do I just tape off the two black/white wires? I assume that grounding them is what the kill switch does?
That's how it would work for a CDI ignition, but not for your bike.
On the 360 (and most street bikes) the coils run from battery power, so the black/white wires are power wires for the coils. The kill switch controls power to the coils, so the two wires on the kill switch need to go to power and to the coils.
That's how it would work for a CDI ignition, but not for your bike.
On the 360 (and most street bikes) the coils run from battery power, so the black/white wires are power wires for the coils. The kill switch controls power to the coils, so the two wires on the kill switch need to go to power and to the coils.
Yes, it makes sense. If I had the two kill switch wires described I'd connect one to the black/white coil wires and the other to a switched power source, right? I think I need to contact K&S. I was reading some reviews about this unit and one of the posts said something about the kill switch only working when the headlight switch is turned to the off position. (??) Sounds a bit of an odd way to do it, but if that's the way they have it working then I guess that the proper way to go would be to connect both the black/white wires and the black wire from the Reg/Rec to switched +12v and all would be good. Right?
I've heard of switches being wired so that the kill switch only works in with the headlight in the on position (so that you're forced to ride with the lights on), but not the other way around. Definitely possible though and it might be worth an email.
If you want to bypass the kill switch for now, the black/white wires can go to main switched power along with the black wire from the R/R, yes.
Whenever I buy an aftermarket switch I have to check the connections to see what is connected when in the OFF and ON positions. That's also true of Kill switches where a CDI typically grounds the system to kill the spark, so it's NO and closed to kill the ignition. Where a points or other electronic system the kill/run switch has to be closed to run and open to kill power to the ignition.
That appears to have a KILL switch rather than a RUN switch. ie. it looks like it goes to ground on OFF. Check for continuity across the two kill connections and see if they are connected at ON or at OFF.
I've heard of switches being wired so that the kill switch only works in with the headlight in the on position (so that you're forced to ride with the lights on), but not the other way around. Definitely possible though and it might be worth an email.
If you want to bypass the kill switch for now, the black/white wires can go to main switched power along with the black wire from the R/R, yes.
You probably have that correct. I may have misread or misunderstood the particular post that I'm referring to. If it works that way it's ok w/ me because I never ride w/o the lights on anyway. In my case ATGATT includes headlight, preferably high beam whenever possible.
That appears to have a KILL switch rather than a RUN switch. ie. it looks like it goes to ground on OFF. Check for continuity across the two kill connections and see if they are connected at ON or at OFF.
I'll have to take the switch apart to check how the switch is wired but I can do that if necessary. Had to take it apart the other day because there was a wrong wire color indicated for one of the other functions.
That one looks like the Kill or passing switch is a momentary close, NO, so if that's the case, it won't work in your application without some clever relay wired in so that closing opens the relay.
That one looks like the Kill or passing switch is a momentary close, NO, so if that's the case, it won't work in your application without some clever relay wired in so that closing opens the relay.
That's the problem, there are no leads. There is a nine pin plug and the wiring diagram says there are two additional leads, one black/white and one blue/white for the kill switch but they don't exist. I'll figger it out. If it ends up that I don't have a kill switch it isn't going to ruin my day. I know lots of people seem to use 'em on a regular basis, but I rarely do, my habit over the years has been to shut it down w/ the key.
In that case, pop the switch open and see what color leads are attached to the "kill" switch and test them in the front on the pins or at the back as Irk suggested.
And if you don't use a RUN switch and that switch isn't wired for one, you can either wire in a toggle switch or another switch or wire it up without one as you suggested.
In that case, pop the switch open and see what color leads are attached to the "kill" switch and test them in the front on the pins or at the back as Irk suggested.
And if you don't use a RUN switch and that switch isn't wired for one, you can either wire in a toggle switch or another switch or wire it up without one as you suggested.
I'm going to take the switch apart again and see what color wires are attached to it and see where they go and how they work. I'll get to the bottom of it. Thanx.
OK, so I now know what I have. I had to pull the switch apart and then also pull back the loom. The switch does have blue/white and black wires coming from it. That black (their info says it's black/white) joins w/ the main black (ground) wire coming out of the switch and the blue/white was dead-ended in the loom. The kill switch is normally OFF and you get continuity across them when the lever is pulled/switch closed. The blue/white has now been appropriately extended so that it reaches my working area.
So, to recap the conversation so far:
The black from the Reg/Rec goes to a switched +12v
The two black/white wires from the coils need to go to a switched +12v
The tach sensor wire from the dashboard goes to one of the other two wires (blue and yellow) from the coils
So, what do I do w/ the blue/white from the kill switch?
If you get continuity when the Kill switch is pulled/switched to Kill, it won;t work on your set up unless you install a relay to the ignition coils and/or ignitor units so that it is CLOSED when running (ON) on OPEN at KILL or STOP
Yep, continuity between them when you pull on the switch.
teazer said:
If you get continuity when the Kill switch is pulled/switched to Kill, it won;t work on your set up unless you install a relay to the ignition coils and/or ignitor units so that it is CLOSED when running (ON) on OPEN at KILL or STOP
OK, that's what I thought No kill switch; no problem. As I said before, I don't use one much anyway, it just would have been nice to have one working if I sell the thing. It would have been nice if K&S would have figured out a way to have the switch be either normally open or normally closed, at the user's choice.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
