suzuki fa50 not running questions

corvairbob

New Member
hi all. i have my neighbors suzuki fa50 moped on the bench with running issues. now i a bit familiar with 4 stroke engines and i have built more than my fair share of car engines and a few small engines, however, i have not had much bench time with 2 strokes so let me list what i have and have done
took the carb off and cleaned it and blew air thew every port i could find. then i took compression and cranking by hand not foot i get 50 psa if i use the drill on the flywheel i get just about 90 psi so i got new rings and still have almost 90 psi yes honed the cylinder with a good crosshatch. i put the red bad ring on top and the other rings with the expander band on #2 if wrong let m know. i did not see any particular upside the the rings.

i got another reed valve body and petal the petal looks good and set on the block real nice.

no breather yet it is not spitting gas out of the carb with this reed block like the original one it did.

the cylinder base gasket and head gasket and rings are new.

the slide main jet pin is on #2 notch from the top of the pin.

it appears that i can't make much of a change with the air jet. and i have to have the slide idle adjustment turned way in when i have it running it will idle at what sounds like 2000 RPMs and then it will start to get slower and finally stops if i do not give it gas. it starts with the choke and i can shut the choke and it will run so that must be doing something.

so how much compression should i have? some on the moped army says 150 psi but that sounds like a lot for a 2 stoke 50cc engine. i did to the best that i could to make sure the rings were at the pins when i installed the piston. but i guess i can remove the piston again and make sure i did not bust a ring. if i did then those piston ring alignment pins may be worn to the point they are not keeping the rings in position. i guess they have to be there to keep the rings from catching the ports.

i do not think the timing is off but if it is what is the best way to check the timing? i have an induction timing light and i guess i can power it with a small 12-volt battery and clamp it on the plug wire and check the timing but because i can't hold the idle it may be hard to get a good reading. so is there a good way to set the timing static with the piston at tdc? i can take an old plug and put a bolt in it to set the tdc and see if the timing marks are ok. if i do that should the piston be right at tdc or a bit early?

well that is quite a bit of info so maybe a new carb, setting the timing if i can get that info, and what i should be seeing for compression with a drill on the flywheel? maybe 1000 RPMs? thanks
 
On some 2Ts you set the timing with a dial indicator on the top of the piston. Firing is usually BTDC.
 
thanks i know they fire btdc but what i need to find out is the setting for static. i think i will try tomorrow connecting the timing light on it and run it as see where it is? i guess it can't hurt to move it advance or retard a bit to see what i have. because it doesn't have a battery ign using a static light will not work. thanks
 
thanks i know they fire btdc but what i need to find out is the setting for static. i think i will try tomorrow connecting the timing light on it and run it as see where it is? i guess it can't hurt to move it advance or retard a bit to see what i have. because it doesn't have a battery ign using a static light will not work. thanks

Hey mate,

Is it electronic ignition or points?

I timed a electronic Vape system up a little while and took some photos on how it did it.

Set up a timing gauge, find TDC and zero out.

IMG_9135.jpg



Find a spec to work off, if you can’t find one find a similar engine spec and you’ll have to fine tune from there.
The spec for this bike was 3-3.25mm (.118” - .128”)

IMG_9136.jpg




Rotate the engine backwards to the required spec BTDC. This was one full revolution and bit on my gauge. (0.122)

IMG_9137.jpg



Carefully remove the flywheel without disturbing the crank position like I did here

IMG_9134.jpg



Then reinstall the flywheel aligning the ignition timing marks. Tighten the nut and turn it over a few times and recheck the timing as sometimes it shifts during tightening.

IMG_9139.jpg


Hopefully that’s helpful
 
I went through everything on my FA50 and it ended up being the primary winding on the stator coil. I rewound it but it failed after a few months, and I just ended up replacing it with a used one.

I wouldn’t worry about the compression. It will run with 90 psi.

You should not need to mess with the timing as it’s all electronic ignition and there should be no adjustment needed as long as the flywheel key is in place.



Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
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