I don't think that rim is going to deflect much if at all. The big phat soft tire on that thing is going to do all the flexing. Run it! Looks like fine German engineering.
You'd be surprised. I've experienced it first hand. Not to the point of being a huge deal, but I lost a nice groove of powder coat in a 12" rim running bias-ply street drag tires, which have no side load resistance. My lower shock mount clears the inside of the rim about 5mm, but still wore the groove in the rim and made a flat spot on the screw head.I don't think that rim is going to deflect much if at all. The big phat soft tire on that thing is going to do all the flexing. Run it! Looks like fine German engineering.
Awesome man, I love it! Thanks for the info. I think i will be running a wider rear tire and therefor will probably still have to use a jack shaft, but it wont be as wide as the bw200 swinger. I hadn't realized how wide they actually were until I saw the one in front of me on this bw200.I love this thing
Sorry for the late reply. I was determined not to use a jack shaft. I narrowed the Honda hub (not difficult as made of steel) and used a 3/4'' offset drive sprocket to line up the chain. I used the front part of the DZR swing arm with the arms from a KX100 Now fitted with custom made triple clamps from Cognito moto, lovely
Bingo lol thats actually one of several reasons. The others are the fact that I don't have the access to the CNC equipment that I used to. If i used 1.5 thick material, it would be uber heavy as these clamps will be almost 14.5" wide outside to outside. I have access to a waterjet and a bridgeport with a boring head, the 1" offers the best path to complete. Water jet the profile, bore the holes to the finish size and call it licked. The other reason is that the kit that they are selling is 1" with single pinch bolts. My quandry comes from the fact that just because someone sells it, doesn't mean its right lolAny particular reason for using 1" 6061?
Most triples are at least 1.25-1.5".
No expert opinion here, but if I were making them from scratch I would step up a bit to thicker material and use 2 m8 clamping bolts.
Unless you just have the 1" material sitting around for free in which case I'd go that direction lol
Good info as always. I'm not planning on doing any real MX, but it will be subjected to some pretty rough single track and trail riding, so i cant have them coming loose. I'm looking at running a 26 or 27 x 9.0 r12 up front and a 24 x 10 or 11 r11 out back.I am building mine to a boulevard cruiser so no mx! I am running a 23 x 8.0 (195/80) x 11 tyres. The chain my rub under extreme right hand corners, I am not sure how much the side wall will move. 3/4 inch was all i could get away with on the drive sprocket.
My triples are standard Cognito design (very nice) with 1'' top and 1 3/8'' bottom. I built plywood mock ups then when I was happy I sent Cognito the dims
Funny, a thought similar to that crossed my mind, and in a manner, may come into effect.Make it fancy and double up the bottom tree. Space them apart by an inch or so. A true 'Triple' tree (why on earth are they called triple trees anyhow - the 2 forks and the stem?)