Texas Two Step Taco

pidjones said:
If any more vibration abatement is needed (and this goes against all of the other work you are doing), try adding some mass to the tank. You might be able to tune out the resonant frequency.
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Thank you. I remember Teazer sent me some super hawk carbs that somebody had put wheel weights on the float bowls.


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Triangulated brake stop pattern
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We are 23 lbs for the rear slick wheel rotational mass and that is 3 lbs lighter than the cb175 rear hub and small tire. 11 lbs lighter than the slick and Bultaco anchor. Rebuilding the caliper and mounting the rear set and we should be closer to going down the track. Galfer rotor, JT aluminum sprocket, Probolt titanium bolts for the rotor, Racetech titanium for the sprocket hardware.
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Is there suppose to be a ball between the clutch actuation shaft and the clutch arm? The Bandido parts catalog does not show one but the illustration for the 4 and five speed manuals does. Which one do you think is correct?

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Tex, how large is that rear slick? It looks huge for a 360 single, but I don't know if you went with a 17" rim or 18. My 18" rear slick looks tiny on a 3.0" rim by comparison. It may not be any lighter, I didn't weigh it.
 
teazer said:
Tex, how large is that rear slick? It looks huge for a 360 single, but I don't know if you went with a 17" rim or 18. My 18" rear slick looks tiny on a 3.0" rim by comparison. It may not be any lighter, I didn't weigh it.
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That slick is only 4” wide. Bills is 7” wide. It’s an optical illusion with the camera angle and my small shop. I may need to send my wife some pictures. Lol. It weighs 12 lbs and is lighter than the MC50 slick the scooter guys run on the Aprilia.


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Thanks. I have a 5.5" Mickey Thompson on the RD which has only got a 3.5" ( I had to go and check it again) rim. That cups the tire and makes it rounded more like a street tire because the rim is too narrow. I had thought about using a spare 4.00 x 18 FZR400 rear wheel but might be cheaper to just buy a new M&H like yours. Mine is supposed to fit a 5" rim and M&H specifies a 3.0" rim for that tire you are using.

BTW, the MT web site says not to use a slick on the dyno. Probably because it overheats the tire with sustained running.

Now I need to work out what pressure to run and if it needs rim screws.
 
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teazer said:
Thanks. I have a 5.5" Mickey Thompson on the RD which has only got a 3.5" ( I had to go and check it again) rim. That cups the tire and makes it rounded more like a street tire because the rim is too narrow. I had thought about using a spare 4.00 x 18 FZR400 rear wheel but might be cheaper to just buy a new M&H like yours. Mine is supposed to fit a 5" rim and works specifies a 3.0" rim.

BTW, the MT web site says not to use a slick on the dyno. Probably because it overheats the tire with sustained running.

Now I need to work out what pressure to run and if it needs rim screws.
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This is a 2.15” rim. Thank you for reminding me to get screws.
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Small capacity drag bike racing in Thailand - impressive times for such tiny bikes. I really like these bikes, apart from the ugly, garish colors...
 
John Murray said:
Small capacity drag bike racing in Thailand - impressive times for such tiny bikes. I really like these bikes, apart from the ugly, garish colors...
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I like them also...very light..and so are the riders.


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Texasstar said:
I like them also...very light..and so are the riders.


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Rider weight is a difficult one - you don't appear to have any excess body fat but your height is well above that of the Thai guys. Perhaps you could try a few good deep breaths of helium before leaving the line. Not only would it reduce your weight by a few grams it'd make the post-race interview much more entertaining..
 
John Murray said:
Rider weight is a difficult one - you don't appear to have any excess body fat but your height is well above that of the Thai guys. Perhaps you could try a few good deep breaths of helium before leaving the line. Not only would it reduce your weight by a few grams it'd make the post-race interview much more entertaining..
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True! I can drop another 10 lbs if I want to. LOL! I am also impressed with the Thai riding skills. Now let’s see how we are doing with the improvements we have made. We can always go to the rear skinny tire. With two tire changes we can drop another 6lbs off the front and rear rotational mass. A Hoosier front drag tire weighs 4 lbs. I will need to build a chamber that hugs the frame some more for the skinny tire. The bike is running great! The clutch feels better now that we have the missing ball bearing. Working on the head stays this weekend and we should be ready for the track....we haven’t even started looking for more power.
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Not really. You want a flatter (or flat) profile to get more rubber to the ground when you make enough power to need it. MT don't list a compound for the 3210 front tire but they do specify 35-40psi.

I wonder if you wouldn't be better with say an Avon AM26 or Bridgestone BT45 street tire for that rim. The bike doesn't weigh much and has less than 60 rear wheel HP and I suspect that you would be fine with one of those. I am starting to think I might be better off with one too.

The Phat Trakka made over 80 rwhp and never broke loose the BT45 I had on it. Of course I'm not too fast off the line, but it's worth thinking about. Or just lace a fatter rim on. Mikes XS sells a 2.5 rim that might work better, but rather than keep spending, why not focus on getting it running and then see what needs to be changed if anything. (that was a note to myself as you might have guessed).

You could also consider a pair of road race slicks for Moto3 and fit a pair of 17" rims. https://motorcycleracetires.com/motorcycle/dunlop-moto3-tires/

Or a simple avon race tire in a suitable size. Maybe 80/90 front and 110 rear.

Or try them all................
 
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