Texas Two Step Taco
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Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
I remember giving you the port dimension and the flange dimensions. Your header is shorter than the chamber I made and I didn’t subtract the flange from the DF header dimension. That means this current chamber is too long and doesn’t have the correct tuned length.
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Please confirm the length from piston to where the pipe starts ie as it fits over the flange. The flange is parallel and is included in the barrel/flange dimension and the header starts to expand after that flange/parallel section.
I will check the dimensions I used, but please send me the dimensions that you used to construct the pipe and I can confirm which version it was.. And please confirm the transfer dimensions by email.
Thanks
I will check the dimensions I used, but please send me the dimensions that you used to construct the pipe and I can confirm which version it was.. And please confirm the transfer dimensions by email.
Thanks
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Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Your section 1 would butt end to end with the inner ring of the flange and be the same 45mm ID. Picture one is showing the flange mated to section one of the pipe I made. Picture 2 is the flange.
We did take into account the flange length in port map I sent you. Just want to confirm you picked up the second window on the port map. I gave you the measurements for just one window.
This inner ring on my flange is now broken loose from the vibration.
I don’t like this design of flange.
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Slip joints are a great way to connect a pipe but are prone to leaks and cracking. Ducati use a similar arrangement for their mufflers on many bikes and making replacements is a total PIA.
Swarbrick pipes use the same arrangement as you have there, as do many others. JEMCo uses a slightly different version of the same idea.
Swarbrick pipes use the same arrangement as you have there, as do many others. JEMCo uses a slightly different version of the same idea.
Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
We are putting it on the dyno this afternoon to see how it is doing in the cool weather. Also going to tune it for u4.4 32:1
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Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Does BeNOL separate when it gets cold? Our fuel looked like it was separating and it looked like we may have had moisture in the c12 fuel. When we drained the float bowl for the first jet change the fuel looked cloudy.
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That is a significant change. Nice numbers now. That's with the DF ports and pipe, Ralf head and Zeeltronic?
Was that with U or C fuel? I re-ran the numbers and with that pipe and port combo MOTA is suggesting a different answer for torque in as much as it suggested peak torque at lower revs than the dyno. Can you send me a torque curve if you printed one or send the file. At least one of the parameters in MOTA is not matching what you are seeing on the dyno. It's probably one of the ducts that needs to be tweaked in MOTA.
HP gross number is pretty much spot on with the simulation but again MOTA predicted that at 500 revs less.
Was that with U or C fuel? I re-ran the numbers and with that pipe and port combo MOTA is suggesting a different answer for torque in as much as it suggested peak torque at lower revs than the dyno. Can you send me a torque curve if you printed one or send the file. At least one of the parameters in MOTA is not matching what you are seeing on the dyno. It's probably one of the ducts that needs to be tweaked in MOTA.
HP gross number is pretty much spot on with the simulation but again MOTA predicted that at 500 revs less.
Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Yes DF pipe and and porting, Zeeltronic, Ralf’s head, C-12 20:1 benol, 220 jet. 9k on the rev limiter and 8k on the shift light.
I will send you the files later.
We tried the U4.4 today and the taco wasn’t happy but that fuel had been premixed 32:1 and sitting around for 6 months. We started with 250 jet and went up three jets and power dropped off. 229-231 were u4.4 and then we switched back to C12. 232 was our last run.
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Old fuel might be a problem for sure. It needs to be fresh in a sealed container. I would stick with teh DF pipe and porting and optimize the package and then get lots of seat time to drag that 60 foot time down a little more.
Have you ever watched video of guys like Ricky Gadsden? It is almost impossible to see how he modulates clutch and throttle during that half second or less of launch, but that's where the action is. You are getting close. Great job.
Have you ever watched video of guys like Ricky Gadsden? It is almost impossible to see how he modulates clutch and throttle during that half second or less of launch, but that's where the action is. You are getting close. Great job.
here is the torque and HP curve.
Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
We could see the water in the u4.4 after we let it sit in the glass container. Learned a new word-hygroscopic. Q16 also sucks the moister into the fuel.
Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
What is interesting is that it was 60 degrees when the c12 and benol came out cloudy from the float bowl and Bills first comment was that it it had water in it. We let it sit for a 1/2 hour and it separated into oil and fuel but no water. The u4.4 was hygroscopic and we could see the water when it separated. When we changed back to the C12 I shook the fuel and made two more passes and we made the most torque and HP we have ever made. Of course the taco does an excellent job of mixing the fuel. Apparently it is common knowledge to those that run BeNOl that castor oil separates from high octane fuel below 50 degrees.
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Unlikely to be methanol but it probably has ethanol to get to the 7.5% oxygenation in the spec, and C12 is not oxygenated, so it should not absorb water the same way. So any water in a drum of C12 should stay as water droplets. Ethanol absorbs water and water causes the ethanol to drop out as a water ethanol (cloudy) mix which is heavier than gasoline so it settles out as the lower layer.
Oil will not only drop out because of temperature but the water won't help any. And now I think about it, we used a special blend on castor oil (Castrol M IIRC), to mix with methanol because normal castor oil won't mix properly with methanol and probably also with ethanol. Try a modern two stroke oil with U4.4 Much as I like castor oil, I don't use it any any street or race motor.
Oil will not only drop out because of temperature but the water won't help any. And now I think about it, we used a special blend on castor oil (Castrol M IIRC), to mix with methanol because normal castor oil won't mix properly with methanol and probably also with ethanol. Try a modern two stroke oil with U4.4 Much as I like castor oil, I don't use it any any street or race motor.
