Texas Two Step Taco

Lol and as all my friends know as full of BS that I am that has to be good for a second.


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BB and John are right about clutch control. I used to be really good when I road raced, but when I drag raced I realized that drag racers are way more skilled with clutch and throttle than 99% of road racers (me included), because it is exponentially more important on the drag strip than a track.

Consistency is really important and those guys understand that.

And Zeke is still young and has time to learn that anyone can buy a modern high performance bike, but getting more out of an old design takes time and effort and that is its own reward. Unlike a drag race, life is not about the destination, it's about the journey. Enjoy the journey.
 
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I really like the idea of making a thin CF or 'glass cover off the original tank. As for the laxatives, if you got the timing exactly right you'd lose the weight and possibly gain a little thrust off the line..


Only with brown leathers though......
 
TIG amp control button! I follow 6061.com on YouTube and he was using this TIG amp control button. Did the research and there were other buttons but for TIG welding this is the only one that gave amp control.


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So the caswell looks like it is coming off on the inside of the tank. The tank has this gel like consistency where it is weeping fuel. I poured the rest of the c12 into the Suzuki DS80 and it did not like it. Thinking that the fuel is definitely compromised.

I found a tank that I saw on plenty of the Indonesian drag bikes and
IMG_9946.jpg

going to give it a try. It weighs 4.3 oz and holds 33 oz of fuel. BB says he uses 13 oz per pass. Will just need to keep it topped off. The only complaint was it needed a 5/16 fuel line
IMG_9942.png

Going to mount it where the Mountjuic tank dips down.


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I used Caswell on a couple of tanks with mixed results. One was a fiberglass tank, done a few years ago and still attached. The other was a plastic tank, the lining in this tank became unstuck after a few months. One thing I did notice with both Caswell jobs was that the lining seemed to have some effect on the first tank of fuel used after the tanks were lined. Both times the engine became hard to start though seemed to run OK once started. Dumping the fuel and replacing it with fresh stuff solved the hard starting.

Be super careful about ensuring sufficient fuel flow - there's no quicker way to stick a piston than restricting the fuel. Big lines are good, use ball valves for gas taps and try to mount the tank high.
 
I used Caswell on a couple of tanks with mixed results. One was a fiberglass tank, done a few years ago and still attached. The other was a plastic tank, the lining in this tank became unstuck after a few months. One thing I did notice with both Caswell jobs was that the lining seemed to have some effect on the first tank of fuel used after the tanks were lined. Both times the engine became hard to start though seemed to run OK once started. Dumping the fuel and replacing it with fresh stuff solved the hard starting.

Be super careful about ensuring sufficient fuel flow - there's no quicker way to stick a piston than restricting the fuel. Big lines are good, use ball valves for gas taps and try to mount the tank high.
Zeke said they had some guys come in with aftermarket carbon fiber tanks and they had failures using caswell. However it probably comes down to prep.

This little tank says it was one liter but it is only 750ml. I had to drill out the nipple. Now flows at 500ml per minute with the cap on. Worse case I was going to use this as a spare tank in the shop for testing. We will see how much fuel we burn. Definitely don’t want to stick a piston because of flow or running out of fuel. The good thing is you will always be able to see your fuel level. The go kart store has a myriad of larger plastic fuel cells. We can always make our own tank but bungs and caps were more that the plastic tank. We will give it a try and see what happens. Now we know we have clean fuel.


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Nice little tank. I use a similar one from US Plastics for oil on one of my projects.

Caswell is the only tank liner I will use, but used fiberglass tanks are problematic because the alcohol and oil has penetrated the matrix and that makes it hard for the coating to adhere to the surface. acetone is a good cleaner, but the tank surface also needs to be totally dry and oil free and should be scarified to give the coating a rough surface to adhere to.

BTW, is that a watercooled TSS tank in that other picture?
 
Nice little tank. I use a similar one from US Plastics for oil on one of my projects.

Caswell is the only tank liner I will use, but used fiberglass tanks are problematic because the alcohol and oil has penetrated the matrix and that makes it hard for the coating to adhere to the surface. acetone is a good cleaner, but the tank surface also needs to be totally dry and oil free and should be scarified to give the coating a rough surface to adhere to.

BTW, is that a watercooled TSS tank in that other picture?

That is the 360 Montjuic Bultaco.


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Nice little tank. I use a similar one from US Plastics for oil on one of my projects.

Caswell is the only tank liner I will use, but used fiberglass tanks are problematic because the alcohol and oil has penetrated the matrix and that makes it hard for the coating to adhere to the surface. acetone is a good cleaner, but the tank surface also needs to be totally dry and oil free and should be scarified to give the coating a rough surface to adhere to.

BTW, is that a watercooled TSS tank in that other picture?

Have you seen this Dutch Yamaha drag bike before? Runs on nitrous.


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Neat job, but because the tank is lower than before the pressure (or head) is only about half as much as it was originally, if that. As well, being mounted behind the carb the acceleration forces will reduce the head even further. I wouldn't be comfortable with it and would much prefer to see it mounted higher and further forward.
 
Neat job, but because the tank is lower than before the pressure (or head) is only about half as much as it was originally, if that. As well, being mounted behind the carb the acceleration forces will reduce the head even further. I wouldn't be comfortable with it and would much prefer to see it mounted higher and further forward.

I was afraid of that. 1 foot head = .43 psi


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Have you looked into the handle bar mount auxiliary tanks? Perhaps one of those in the spine of the frame with a faux tank cover over it will do the trick.
 
Have you looked into the handle bar mount auxiliary tanks? Perhaps one of those in the spine of the frame with a faux tank cover over it will do the trick.

I think this will do
IMG_9980.jpg



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