Texas Two Step Taco

I haven't used a Bultaco kill switch for maybe 40 years or more, they were pretty poor quality. If there is any doubt about the switch just swap it out. Looking at the wiring diagram for the Pingel air shifter it appears to be set up for an inductive ignition system. It might work with a CDI (which I assume the Zeel is) but it wouldn't be good for it - there would be spikes in the primary circuit as the output to the coil is broken during shifts. The Pingel switchgear would subjected to some pretty high voltage as well. If you really must use the Zeel I'd set it up so the primary side is grounded rather than broken during the shift.

I know I've said this a hundred times but I'll say it one more time then I'll stay out of this altogether - you're making this much harder on yourself than it has to be. Take anything off the bike that isn't absolutely necessary or disconnect it until you get the engine tuned. Once it's running strongly and consistently you can add the trick stuff one piece at a time, so if any problems appear you'll know what's the culprit. I'm trying to help you but feel like I'm wasting my time.

No don’t stay out...I kid you not I looked at the 90 whp quad running 6.5 in the 1/8 and thought to myself. “John would have built this.” No air shifter, no electronic ignition, bare bones, balls to the walls. 175 lbs on meth.

So I have been running without the right hand Bultaco kill switch until last week and hooked it up to the Zeeltronic.

Just like you could tell me how the puddle was forming in the cases and what was happening in the engine, without seeing in the engine. (I presume) I can now imagine what the Bultaco kill switch flap of metal is doing under the rubber button going down the track. Better yet I felt it. There was something electrical shorting.

It died in the same place on the track on two of the runs but didn’t on the third run. Why? The first run I kept cracking the throttle wide open and it died all the way down the track. The second run after nose diving you can hear me get on the rev limiter on the second shift and then with throttle control it was fine.

The only thing different I did on the third run was keep the bike at the shift light (7500 rpms) all the way down the track. Didn’t die and no hiccups. Clean pass.

So my thought was I was over revving putting it on the rev limiter and also causing the bike to bog and lose momentum. I have never had a bike where I barely crack the throttle and it is at its max like the Bull is now.

I am still not convinced the zeel is reading the correct RPM.

We checked the fuel flow, had a stuck rear brake, had electrical gremlins. Fixing all those before we change out the jets.

I think the zeel has a programmable shift kill in it where we can get rid of the pingel air shift kill.

Will go do some reading that will eliminate having to interrupt at the coil.


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Proper wiring
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No don’t stay out...I kid you not I looked at the 90 whp quad running 6.5 in the 1/8 and thought to myself. “John would have built this.” No air shifter, no electronic ignition, bare bones, balls to the walls. 175 lbs on meth.

He's out riding and going fast because he doesn't have to troubleshoot unnecessary doodads.

How long have I been saying ditch the damn Zeel? So far it's done nothing but waste time - how many hours have been spent on it? 20? More? This build has been going on for months and still no result. It will never make a single extra horsepower. This is a simple two stroke single - you don't need a rev limiter or shift light; a simple fixed ignition would have you up and running in no time and allow you to do the things that need to be done. Get rid of all the crap and just go riding like the man with the quad.
 
Better
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Need to work on my 60’ bike is running great no misses.


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Here is the run from that time slip. 26 psi rear tire, proper burnout, c12 fuel


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Run 3 over rev and it did the same thing it did the first time out.


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Run 5 was the quickest. Proper burn out off the rev limiter on the pipe, no extra shift. C12 fuel 26 psi rear tire. 8.73 we started dripping oil from the tranny. It was 52 degrees and we had a head wind. Packed up and headed home.
Zeke was my coach didn’t worry about the line.
Clutch has 8 runs.
Shift kill is still too long.


We are tuning next week on the dyno and will do some pulls in the cool weather And see where we are...now to find more power.


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Did not improve at all on the 60’ times except the run that I was over revving
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Sounding cleaner. There's a hole at the top end that sounds like one "gear change" too many. Numbers are headed in the right direction now it's running better.

BTW, what light do you leave on? Looks like you may be waiting for the green light to start to release the clutch.

A burnout may not be necessary with that tire as long as teh tire isn't wet. In other words, if if doesn't spin on launch, it's got enough traction.
 
Sounding cleaner. There's a hole at the top end that sounds like one "gear change" too many. Numbers are headed in the right direction now it's running better.

BTW, what light do you leave on? Looks like you may be waiting for the green light to start to release the clutch.

A burnout may not be necessary with that tire as long as teh tire isn't wet. In other words, if if doesn't spin on launch, it's got enough traction.

Zeke wanted me to camp on the light and not worry about it. Yes I hit the shift button a fourth time. I keep wanting an extra gear. Lol!

Zeke wanted me to try one run without a burn out and it is posted above.


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I saw that little wriggle. With such a low track temperature that's not surprising. When it's 50 degrees warmer there will be a lot more grip.

Now to get back on the dyno and in spring you can fine tune the kill time and technique. I have forgotten what ignition you have. Is it a Motoplat self generating system or a pickup up and 12v DC?

BTW that looks like a lot of wire and the battery and disconnects also look huge. You can go down on wire size and use smaller 60 amp or even lighter RC model connectors with an RC LiPo battery. Try a Turnigy 1.3 graphene if the Zeel is ok with the slightly higher voltage from a 4S (4 cells).
 
This is the electronic ignition. https://www.zeeltronic.com/page/pdci-15V.php

It doesn’t take any power and that Speed cell 4cell lithium battery didn’t drop below 13 amps after being plugged in for 7 hours.

Next I am building your specification expansion chamber next and will have it come out the side instead of going underneath. That way we can run a lighter low profile tire. I have a MC7 that weighs 8.3 lbs and that is another 2.8 lbs off the rotational mass. I think I can hook that tire.

I also have another cylinder with better transfers that we may send to Nate in California. ;)

We are still having fun and Zeke was just as excited as I was when we dropped into the 8’s. Lots of high fives! He did jab me on the way home saying, Dad my 996 does 90 in first gear. Lol.

Thanks for all the help and encouragement.


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So you have a single pickup to send the signal to the Zeeltronic ignition controller? That one is a DC CDI rather than an AC (magneto) CDI so that explains the battery. How did you mount the pickup and how do you check what the timing actualy is?

With Ignitech, I time it manually and then I check that at idle and at speed to confirm that it's correct. The tricky part is determining the base advance and it's easy to get it wrong, so that's why I use a timing disk and light to confirm it.

Different port timing will probably require different pipe dimensions, but try what you have and see what you can wring out of it.
 
Funny thing is that we can actually hear that last "gear change" kill time even though it's only a fraction of a second. Yes. It could be made shorter and if you go too far, a replacement cylinder is quite cheap and easily replaceable.
 
So you have a single pickup to send the signal to the Zeeltronic ignition controller? That one is a DC CDI rather than an AC (magneto) CDI so that explains the battery. How did you mount the pickup and how do you check what the timing actualy is?

With Ignitech, I time it manually and then I check that at idle and at speed to confirm that it's correct. The tricky part is determining the base advance and it's easy to get it wrong, so that's why I use a timing disk and light to confirm it.

Different port timing will probably require different pipe dimensions, but try what you have and see what you can wring out of it.

Doesn’t the ignetech have a two step built into it?

Yes a reluctor and a trigger.

Here is how I set up the Zeeltronic and it was a pain also


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Ignitech uses a similar arrangement but there base timing is set at the angle at which the leading edge of the reluctor is in line with the front edge of the pickup and that's notionally around 10 degrees. That has to be exact because all timing movements, advance or retard are calculated by the ignition system relative to that datum.

That's why it's critical to get it right.

The other thing we all have to do is to set TDC on the timing wheel using a piston stop which stops the piston at 20-40 degrees BTDC forwards or reverse. Then we adjust the pointer so we get true TDC. A dial gauge has too much dwell or latency around TDC to be an accurate measure of crank angle. It's OK if you set timing at mm before TDC but not to use a dial gauge to get TDC.

I like to run the motor after all that with a timing (strobe) light to confirm that the actual spark timing matches what the timing table says it is.

Ignitech doesn't offer a feature it calls a two step but v80 on have two rev limiters - top end and what we call launch. That has to be switched so I use the clutch switch to act as that input.
 
I understand. Timing is everything they say. This came up in my Twitter feed after our last post. https://www.cycleworld.com/making-cdi-work-on-motorcycles-50-ways-to-get-it-wrong/

The algos are aiding in my education. Coincidence? I think not.

So with a magneto the spark had more dwell time to catch a ride so to speak and not cause a misfire.

Are you hearing something in the Taco that I am not?


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“I have come to believe the engine is ancillary to the chamber” -John Murray

We have made almost a
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4 second difference in the 1/8 mile since Zeke first race the taco on the strip.

Now to see if we are at the correct tuned length.
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