The Norda

The air-box looks good man, it looks like it belongs on the bike as well. For the back plate of the intake box, where you have the stacks mounted, did you use CNC to make that plate? Thanks, looking forward to seeing what you do for the fenders.
 
The air-box looks good man, it looks like it belongs on the bike as well. For the back plate of the intake box, where you have the stacks mounted, did you use CNC to make that plate? Thanks, looking forward to seeing what you do for the fenders.
Yes, it was cut on waterjet and finished on cnc. I could have done it on manual with a boring head and rotary table, but it took maybe 5 minutes to program and not much longer to run.

Edit* wanted to add I found a fork brace for a cbr600f4, I'll make a new bridge for it to use as the front fender mount. It was $50 for the brace, but that'll save a few hours of machine time in the garage. I'll use that time to start trying the english wheel.
 
Put the filter on, set the tank on place and made some rear axle nuts. I think it's coming together well.
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Are those the final shape of the rear engine plates? They seem a little bulky and square, to me.
They'll get some changes. The oil lines will pass through to get to the tank, I might cut it and weld it back together to get the offset to have it behind the frame web. I'll either paint them black or give them the engine turned finish so they aren't just plain as well.

I did take the time to make new bottom eyes for the cheap shocks. No bushing, but I'm not planning on riding with these. I did it to get the shocks down to the correct length. That way I'll be able to tell if I need to lower the front to get the correct stance. I'm really working to keep the frame geometry unchanged.
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Working on learning to use the english wheel. Ron Covell makes it look easy in his videos, it must be all the experience. I'm about 5hrs in on this.
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Next one will take half the time. Have to learn
Oh yeah, I feel like it's going pretty good for a first time. It's still got trimming, polishing and bead rolling to go. I think it'll be acceptable once I finish.

I used an english wheel and tear drop mallet from HF for most of it and an ebay special shrinker stretcher for the rest. I think one of my next projects will be taking apart the mallet and using it as soft faces on a dead blow. More weight would have helped it go faster.
 
I cut my nylon tear drop in half and duct taped the two ends to either side of a 3 lb dead blow. Huge difference.


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Well I need a bead roller to finish the fenders, and without power they are a 2 person tool. Rather than attempt to get my wife to help me, I decided to make it powered. I'm using a 2000lb trailer winch from HF and will power it with a 30a dc power supply and a dc motor controller.

I adapted the winch motor by taking it apart. Once it was apart I cut 1 end off the drum so I could chuck it up in the lathe to make it fit where the handle was. I used part of the "frame" of the winch to mount it to the roller.
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That’s pretty slick. I might steal that idea for mine. I’ve done plenty of rolling with it solo but it is certainly awkward.


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That’s pretty slick. I might steal that idea for mine. I’ve done plenty of rolling with it solo but it is certainly awkward.


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Go for it, I'm not the first to do this and won't be the last. Here's a how to video I watched, I did it a little different because I have a lathe and could just modify the cable drum.
 
With the now powered bead roller I tipped the fender with a 1/2" radius die at about 4" width. The end got a 8.5" radius cut. I'm debating cutting 1/2-1" off the sides before giving it a bead around the edge.
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