TR1 wannabefast&light

[Tune-A-Fish]

these and the yoke?

Never seen that before on 50's might be the cheap way out.

 

[Tune-A-Fish]

I'd go for a stepped top yoke... something like this.. or extend the fork legs maybe

You beat me to it ;D Oh well I'm seconding this motion lol

 

[DohcBikes]

his engine is in the middle of the bike, so for every inch he raises the front he will only gain 1/2 of that in the middle...

No thats not true, the lift occurs further back than zero in the wheelbase, at the neck, and for this reason if he gets the front up 2 inches it will almost raise the front of the motor 2 inches as well. If you will notice, the case is lower at the front.

This is why USD fronts aren't for novice builders. As soon as you raise the front, you're going to change the trail. But, to be honest that looks like it might not be a bad thing here. Get the front up 2" and go from there.

Kudos for not flipping your lid over a sound suggestion.

 

[farmer92]

No thats not true, the lift occurs further back than zero in the wheelbase, at the neck, and for this reason if he gets the front up 2 inches it will almost raise the front of the motor 2 inches as well. If you will notice, the case is lower at the front.

Good point, But the neck is still further out front than the engine, looks to be inline with the back of the front tire, so he'll gain probably 90-95% of the liift from that, but the cosine of his rake angle (i used 25* for this) means he only gets 90 of the added for length upwards.
Like you said though, raise it the 2 and go from there.

 

[Tune-A-Fish]

Rear axle is flat or almost flat in current position so when loaded may squat blow intended setup... I would say this too could maybe be adjusted with a longer spring or a an adjustment to the lower shock mount. The entire suspension is likely not tuned and with the heavy(r) motor the R6 forks may be settled lower that stock, springs could be loaded and need to be stiffer.

 

[DohcBikes]

Good point, But the neck is still further out front than the engine, looks to be inline with the back of the front tire, so he'll gain probably 90-95% of the liift from that, but the cosine of his rake angle (i used 25* for this) means he only gets 90 of the added for length upwards.
Like you said though, raise it the 2 and go from there.

That's why i said almost, while correcting you. But, you're welcome for the education. Next time you'll know.

 

[LazyOx]

Thanks for the tips guys, appreciated.

As this is the 1st time out for the bike and I have not adjusted anything on the suspension I will 1st get the baseline to see how much lift I would actually need, as I think I might get a half inch by fiddling with the spring preloads.

I actually liked the way the bike handled while the front is a bit low and the steering is a LOT quicker than with the original due to steeper steering angle so I would like the angle to remain as steep as possible but still gain some ground clearance, but that would mean both front and back needs to be raised.

 

[XVRacer]

Took her out for a spin, pretty sweet 8)
The torque is strong and available instantly,SUCCESS, thanks again XVracer for the jetting tips, it's almost flawless, lets see if I need to make changes as the stock airbox and filter are gone.
Feels a lot like the Ducati 900ss my friend used to have, just looks cooler ;D (sounds are a draw)

Might need to get stiffer clutch springs as it felt like it might have slipped, or then it was wheel spin, it's only 8 degrees outside.

Still need to get rear lights and brakes working, gauges and misc electrical stuff.

Hooray! I'm glad I could help. I love the bike and I'm glad you're enjoying it.

 

[Tune-A-Fish]

If you have ever experienced the shopping cart shake then you know what "too" steep can do.

May consider a steering damper but if you get a head shake dont back out ride it out.

 

[LazyOx]

Yeah I know the shopping cart feeling, but it's not even close to that, it just feels planted, no need to have anymore, but I'm pretty sure if I raise the front I will loose some of the nice quick planted steering and confidence.
I've ridden some MX and like to drive "on top of the front wheel" if you know what I mean, allows to slide the back wheel a bit, which is almost always fun, especially when you have the grunt to do it when wanted.

Anyways it's snowing again here so back to electrical work...

 

[LazyOx]

Installed a light mudflap to protect the shock.
Because I was too lazy to figure out the blinker relay not doing anything.

It's actually a mudguard for a mountain bike but might work pretty well like this also.

 

[LazyOx]

If you find that bearing let me know the source. I have an FZ6 wheel with the same issue and no common bearing makes the 22mm axle work. The next step is to cut the wheel to accept the R6 bearings, then still need another 1.5mm added to each spacer.

Finally stumbled on the bearing specs for a d22 D47 wheel bearing:

ALL BALLS
Ball Bearing, 22x47x14
Part# 20-1065A

All Right store that sold it to me says it's not available but maybe someone still has it.

 

[LazyOx]

Made some progress, tidied up the electrics (not done yet!)
Added front fender (carbon of course because it's at least 10% faster)
Made an license plate holder out of aluminium tube.
Raised the front of the seat 1" to align better with the tank.

 

[datadavid]

That old hedlund design sure is beautiful!
Brw i thought all finnish guys and their grandmothers were expert welders?

 

[Tune-A-Fish]

With the plate rail, you need to cut a cardboard wedge template then an aluminum plate i use those aluminum clip boards for this stuff and form it to fit that gap, add a tail light bar(s) frenched in.

Amazing what you find at office supply

 

[LazyOx]

DataDavid, Yeah my Grandma welds better than me, that's why I outsourced my welding to these guys: www.jarmax.fi they actually seem to know what they are doing.

Tune-A-Fish, I did not completely understand your clipboard design, but if you refer to the "underseat plate" gap, the seat is actually just a bit too loosely tightened so no need to visit the office supply ;-)

 

[LazyOx]

That old hedlund design sure is beautiful!
Brw i thought all finnish guys and their grandmothers were expert welders?

...did you mean Hageman design? http://www.hagemanmc.com/
Or Actually Hedlund design?: http://www.hedlunddesign.com/

Both look good to me ;D

 

[datadavid]

Its said that this engine was designed by swedish engineer nils hedlund for yamaha, it looks very similar to the legendary hedlund v-twin which is a collectors item today, to be put in wild builds and ridden hard of course!

 

[datadavid]

http://motorcyclepictureoftheday.blogspot.se/2010/12/odd-bike-swedish-hedlund-v-twin-cafe.html?m=1

 

[LazyOx]

Ok, now it makes sense.
Riding on a MC sidecar with that engine has definitely been a ride!