Tried to make some new friends at caferacer.net, what a joke!

Brodie said:
Just flip the actuator lever over and adjust the linkage. Should be good to go... Well better at least. Here is a pic so you can see the difference.

it needs to be straight too, the bend acts like a spring so when the shoes make contact with the drum, the bar starts to bend, and it'll never put much pressure on the drum, with that setup, my guess is he could be on the brake as hard as he could and the bike would slow down about as fast as engine braking
 
I went with a cable brake on my 360 to adapt Hayabusa rear sets. It works well, but there are some important considerations to make for it to work well. I definitely had help getting the geometry right.
 
pretty much any rearset adapted drum brake I've seen completely neglects to consider the original lever ratio of the stock bike, and to make things easier, usually winds up reducing the lever ratio by at least half, usually it's like 4 or 5 times
 
leverage ratio is important for sure but if you cannot adjust out the free play then it is a useless lashup
when you have severe bump brake then you cannot have an up stop static adjustable position of the pedal
therefore you can't adjust the pedal for a minimum amount of movement before engagement
i know you know that ;)
 
Brodie said:
I like post #17 of that thread by "Dean".

A point system to determine if your bike is "Hipster" or "Cafe"
That is what is wrong with the "scene". People have an imaginary judging clip board and mark point on a bike before deciding if they like the owner or not.

I would rather decide if I like the owner then point out what I think is can be done to improve the bike in a performance and safety sense.

All I can see from that other thread is "You bike is shit because of this and this" , the attitude over here is much better. Sure we will still tell you what we think of your bike but at least we are going to tell you how to fix the problems. Sometimes even if you don't ask....

That's OK Brodie, they didn't get my joke over at Caferacer.net either ;)
 
How would the drum brake lever being up instead of down effect the funcontality? im not trying to be a prick just curious. From what I can see is it works on a cam and flipped up versus down seems to have the same effect. Once again just trying to understand.

Totally agree about the bends in the linkage total spring action and basically useless, will most certainly be addressed.
 
Zedx said:
How would the drum brake lever being up instead of down effect the funcontality? im not trying to be a prick just curious. From what I can see is it works on a cam and flipped up versus down seems to have the same effect. Once again just trying to understand.

Totally agree about the bends in the linkage total spring action and basically useless, will most certainly be addressed.
it doesn't, not really, it does change slightly how each shoe is leveraged with the reverse direction of the cam but the issue you have is what I mentioned already
that is the brake rod is being pulled way to far from the swinger centerline resulting in bump brake
every time the wheel moves up or down so does the brake pedal
 
DeanJ said:
That's OK Brodie, they didn't get my joke over at Caferacer.net either ;)

Dammit. I had a voice in my head saying it was you. Fooled again...


The sad thing is that people do act like that. I have seen it a lot and don't care for it.
 
Hoofhearted said:
Marc. You are one of the few that I pay attention to what you post. You've built a bike so you know what you are talking about. There are too many on there (and other forums) that are phantom builders and quick to attack. Which reminds me. Did you get your starter sorted?

The starter works, it just don't have enough amperage or voltage to turn my big motor over with that tiny motorcycle battery.
Not only have I built bikes but also world record holding cars on the Salt.
 
xb33bsa said:
it doesn't, not really, it does change slightly how each shoe is leveraged with the reverse direction of the cam but the issue you have is what I mentioned already
that is the brake rod is being pulled way to far from the swinger centerline resulting in bump brake
every time the wheel moves up or down so does the brake pedal

Ahhhhh that makes Sense!
 
DreadRock said:
Didn't read his post just saw the pic and to be truthful I know ZERO about HDs beside basic knowledge ! Never said I didn't like it all I said was it didn't look like much other then body work ::)

And yes I do need glasses LOL
To help you understand better, the bottom end of the motor, the rocker boxes and internals and the engine cradle of the frame are the only parts left that are Harley Davidson. Everything else is custom or hand fabricated.
 
Here is a good example of a cable setup on a CB750
vintage-custom-cafe-racer-motorcycle-dime-city-cycles-iron-and-air-giveaway-honda-cb750-mable-11.jpg
 
Brodie said:
Here is a good example of a cable setup on a CB750
vintage-custom-cafe-racer-motorcycle-dime-city-cycles-iron-and-air-giveaway-honda-cb750-mable-11.jpg

that's actually a really bad example, not to slam you (I'm not), but look at the lever ratio, it's tiny, you've got a 5" foot peg, and 2" lever arm, going to the brake arm, you've got force multiplication of maybe 2-3 when it should be 12-20
 
Haha well there is a bad example of the setup a few people mentioned. Just to give a picture to the idea.
 
I edited my response. Just know that I don't approve of this thread or the troll. There's a good wealth of knowledge on both boards and trying to pick a fight between both shows you are new to social media such as forums and extremely childish and immature. I would punch you in the face if I ever met you.

Love,
Keith
 
Roc City Cafe said:
that's actually a really bad example, not to slam you (I'm not), but look at the lever ratio, it's tiny, you've got a 5" foot peg, and 2" lever arm, going to the brake arm, you've got force multiplication of maybe 2-3 when it should be 12-20

Are you saying the arm at the footpeg end is not long enough? It's pretty much the same length as the stock one from what I can see (part 14):

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750-four-k5-usa_model483/partslist/F++16.html#results
 
It's also not that different from Dick Madden's Daytona and many other 60's and 70's race bikes.

69878692.jpg

index.php
 
the stock cb750 has a longer pedal so it has more leverage less effort at the foot pad than that first cable example but only by about a factor of 2, if that,
the situation could be corrected with a longer arm at the rear or a shorter pull arm at the pedal or a combo of both
it is simple math to replicate a similar to stock feel at the pedal pressure
you cannot compare something like on those racebikes because it is all about the shoe cam profile as well, some are rounded some quite square and that make s a big diff as well
that cable setup is a bit un ideal as the cable is going thru 2 pretty tight bends
i am still waiting for somebody to run a bare cable forward to a pulley mounted more or less coaxially with the swinger pivot and then back to the rear
 
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