Ugly Punx XV1100

bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
Finally got around to mounting the rear rack properly. I have to pull the rear guard off and paint the new hole I drilled in it as well as clean up and paint the sub frame and mounting hardware.

I used rubber inbetween both mounts for the rack to try and reduce and vibration transfer. Don't want those beers shaken up!

Still undecided if I should fit a tool roll behind the seat to tie in the look a bit better. I am thinking yes.
 

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der_nanno

Faster!
Brodie said:
Have you tested your Ignitech TCIP4 unit on the road yet?
Yup, for roughly the last ten years or so. ;D
Well worth it, the newer (ever since hw-version 88 came out) had some protective feature that make it withstand overcurrent and shortages better. The older versions blew out the power-side every now and then.

If you need a map, I've got a reaaaaaally sweet one worked out. 37 degrees max advance and even a "soft" rev-limiter, which reduces advance to 0 so you can't overrev' it.
 

bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
Sounds like a winner. I will email them for a price.
I would love a copy of your map once I get the unit. Looks like the software isn't to bad to use either. Thanks for the offer.
 

der_nanno

Faster!
Yep, it's very straightforward. You may have to copy the curve itself by points, as my setup on coils and triggers etc. is a bit special and may not work straight away with an XV1100 style setup. But the rest is fine.
 

bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
Thanks mate.

Today I installed the new air filter. It is designed for a Stromberg carb but just happens to fit the stock intake boot.
I will need to make a pipe up for inside and a mount for it but it seems to fit visually well and should be plenty enough filter area.
 

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bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
I ordered my new Ignitech TCIP4 unit today. Looking forward to it arriving very much.

I also started to pull the starter apart to clean it up a bit. Is there a way to remove it without taking the side cover off?

I have a new clutch, master cylinder, intake boots and tool roll on the way.
 

der_nanno

Faster!
Yup, undo the lead and then the two long bolts holding the rear section of the starter to the planetary gear-set and then undo the two M6-bolts holding it to the case. Grab the centersection and pull it to the left, this will pull the actual electrical motor off the planetary gear set.

You can (sort of) see it in this blog-post: http://greasygreg.blogspot.com/2018/05/everyday-tr1-starter-swaps-and-other.html
 

der_nanno

Faster!
Same on mine, plus I was a bit generous with greasing up the planetary gears so the rotor was smeared with a super-conductive layer of grease, resulting in rather "moderate" starter performance, i.e. nearly sucking the battery empty, when doing normal starts. I already have new brushes sitting in my workshop to rebuild the starter AFTER the engine swap.
 

bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
Ok so slightly away from what I was posting but I thought I might list a few of the mods I have done and a few I know of just incase there are any important ones I have missed or incase anyone following wants to know.

Done:
New coil, leads and caps. Converted to resistor plugs and run no resistor caps. The coil is a "single fire" type.
Mikuni TM38 carbs.
MOSFET reg/rec.

To do:
Rear cylinder breather cam cover.
Ignitech TCIP4.
Starter earth strap.
Cam roller bearings.
Head oil feed gauges.
Oil feed banjo mod.
Nanno 9 disc clutch.

Known:
750 tank conversion.
Progressive front springs.
Race tech cartridge emulators.
 

bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
New ignition arrived today. Plug and play is great. Just need to sort out a mount for it. I want to have the programming cable exposed so that I can change the tune easy.

From what I understand this module controls the advance so I should be able to remove the vaccum advance. If that is the case I will make a mount plate for easy access to the vaccum ports for carb sync.

I had an issue with a bit of crap in the carbs so they will come off for a complete clean and then a test run next week. Getting close to having her running tip top.

I need to sort out the starter gearing. Although I have the newest design I am still getting the grinding. After 28 years I think I need to get a new gear for it.

New clutch friction discs are on the way and the new lever set has arrived. I got a larger master cylinder to help with the lack of leverage I now have. Still to fit it as I am waiting for my taller risers to arrive to make sure the hose is long enough.
 

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canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
DTT BOTM WINNER
Brodie said:
Ignitech TCIP4.
So you don't use a vaccuum operated switch with it? I was under the impression that most electronic ignitions had a trigger hooked to a voes.
 

bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
My understanding is that you set the advance in the program along side the rpm as a 10 point curve.

Still need to play around with the program.
 

der_nanno

Faster!
You can run the Ignitech either standalone or with a pressure sensor (MAP) or or throttle potentiometer (TPS). I've been running mine without anything on my TR1 for the last decade and it works just fine. I will use a MAP-sensor on the turbo in its next incarnation to boost-reference my ignition.
 

bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
Not getting any spark with it at the moment.

I would like to use it without the vacuum advance. I plugged it in and unchecked vacuum advance box and it would only fire cylinder 1.

I will have to have more of a go on the weekend.
 

bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
Alright, I reloaded the program that Ignitech sent me and got spark going again. I had weak vacuum on the front cylinder and suspected a valve was sticking.
I pulled the carb off and gave it a quick clean, shot some WD40 down the intake and replaced the intake boot. Still took a little for the cylinder to come right but a bit of carb cleaner sprayed into the vacuum port ended up solving the problem.
One day I will have the heads off and look inside the top end. For now I will assume it is just as bad as the bottom end was when I took the side cover off. Heap more oil changes and I should be ok.

I also replaced the master cylinder and clutch lever today and they suit a lot nicer. Brakes are a lot better with the new cylinder, didn't take long to bleed either.

I just need to have the exhaust finished and get some kind of adapters for the carb to "Airbox" joins and I should be on the final track. Then it will be time to plug chop and change jets every few days!
 

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