Slowed to a crawl for awhile. I picked up a Koso guage for the bike. It's a nice kit. I shaved down the stock front fairing mount, made a bracket and welded it on for the Koso mount.
I come back to DTT after a few years away...and glad to see progress hasn't been too fast so I haven't missed too much!
She'll be a beast on track!
are you running the stock ignition? sometimes if you route the wires to close to the coils it can get a false reading. i had to isolate the tach signal on a bike once with a shielded sleeve that grounded to the frame. another time i had to get a signal wave transformer, changing the signal from a sine wave to a square wave for the tach to get accurate readings. all depends on what type of system you have.
I had tried wrapping a plug wire and tying to an ignition coil wire but now it's directly tied to the crank trigger, before it gets to the rest of the ignition system. The lead wire was run directly over a coil so I moved it and isolated it away from the coils and ignition components. I need to test it again but I'll be wowed if that fixes the tach trigger reading. The heat shield matting I ordered should be here tomorrow so I can isolate the head heat from the carb bodies. Then another road test or two before Saturday I hope.How do you have the pickup wired? Is it wrapped around a plug wire or spliced into an ignition coil wire (gray or orange), itself?
It's directly tied to the crank trigger, before it gets to the rest of the ignition system.
The crank trigger may not be a good enough signal to use. I'd try orange or gray wire from the coils (if you haven't already).
If you had it directly connected to HT lead, I suspect any electronics in the tach are fried