YZF750/1000R - The Fly

Maritime

Active Member
HF site says 49.99 for the welder and 5.99 for some plastic rods in 3 flavors. not bad at all. I wish I knew they were that cheap when I was fixing the plastic on the wheeler, I spent probably 20 bucks in epoxy and it only partly worked.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
Anyone know what type plastic is used in the rods? Rolls of ABS for 3D printing are pretty cheap and LOTS of colors available.
 

1fasgsxr

New Member
Might be picking one of those up. I have a stock tail piece that I will cut up and use. So glad I ran across this !
The ear on my upper fairing is broke clean off but I still have it.
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
1fasgsxr said:
How much was that thing? I need to do some plastic welding on the Gsxr.
This particular plastic welder was 50$ at HF. A few more bucks and you can get a bag of abs welding rods to go with it. I have some Katana carcasses in my barn I'm going to practice on first. I'll post up pics etc when I test it out. I'm going to try and get to it tonight after work.
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
I think the trick on my YZF750 fairings will be to only weld one side of the plastic. I don't want to mess up the body graphics on the outside and have to re-do them. All the videos I've watched show welding both sides, sanding, filling, etc.... Which is what I hope to avoid. I just want to weld up one side, prevent further cracking and keep the oem graphics as intact as possible.
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
Sonreir said:
Anyone know what type plastic is used in the rods? Rolls of ABS for 3D printing are pretty cheap and LOTS of colors available.
You use the same kind of rod as the plastic you are welding, polypropylene, abs, etc... Post up a source of the abs rolls if you can.
 

1fasgsxr

New Member
How far away are they from the crack? That heat might melt em pretty quick. Mine is getting a color change so I will be doing both sides and sand etc etc..
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
1fasgsxr said:
How far away are they from the crack? That heat might melt em pretty quick. Mine is getting a color change so I will be doing both sides and sand etc etc..
Look back a page or two. I posted pics of the inside and outside of the left fairing, showing the worst crack. It goes right through the graphics.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
canyoncarver said:
You use the same kind of rod as the plastic you are welding, polypropylene, abs, etc... Post up a source of the abs rolls if you can.
This place is good for samples: https://quantum3dprinting.com/shop/3d-printer-abs-filament-samples-10-meter-increments/

Once you figure out what you want, I usually hit eBay or Amazon for the whole rolls. Usually runs about $20-$25 for a 1kg roll.
 

Maritime

Active Member
canyoncarver said:
You use the same kind of rod as the plastic you are welding, polypropylene, abs, etc... Post up a source of the abs rolls if you can.
You may want to chemical weld then. you can use MEK and abs chunks and make a slurry to apply and then it turns back into solid ABS, you can use a little glass mat or cloth to make it stronger. I will be using that technique this spring to fix the ABS front on my camper. Just need a respirator to not die
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
Maritime said:
You may want to chemical weld then. you can use MEK and abs chunks and make a slurry to apply and then it turns back into solid ABS, you can use a little glass mat or cloth to make it stronger. I will be using that technique this spring to fix the ABS front on my camper. Just need a respirator to not die
Yeah, I also considered abs cement and abs chips to make a slurry and to do it that way. Once I practice on the carcasses I have, I'll have a better idea about which way to go because of the graphics.
 

Maritime

Active Member
The slurry by itself isn't as strong as a weld but if you bury cloth or mat in it it should be. I think the welder will ruin the graphics on you but maybe not.
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
Slim chance you can save that decal. You'd have to repair it from the back as Mike said using cloth, etc. and you'd still see the crack through it regardless.

If you get a sheet of trace paper and trade the outer contours, we can reproduce that graphic (assuming they aren't readily available).
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
advCo said:
Slim chance you can save that decal. You'd have to repair it from the back as Mike said using cloth, etc. and you'd still see the crack through it regardless.

If you get a sheet of trace paper and trade the outer contours, we can reproduce that graphic (assuming they aren't readily available).
The graphics are sometimes available but silly expensive, like over 250$ per side. I don't expect my repair to be visually perfect from the outside. I rode it like this all last fall and can live with the look I just don't want it to get worse. I mean, I want it to look good but I'm managing my expectations on the possibilities.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I've repaired a bunch of plastics with G/Flex. You can use pigments to color match. In fact, most 2 part epoxy and plastic can be pigmented.
 

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