Switching plug wires will show if you have a carb issue. If the same cylinder doesn't fire, it's not ignition, but is fuel related.
If opposite cylinder is dead, then it's ignition related.
You can still check the compression with the motor out. Just hook the starter up to battery power and spin the motor over. Looks like the carbs are off already, so that's fine.
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For the choke flapper, you could source another spring.
I had this same issue on one of my carbs, but I just bent the end of the spring straight out so that it would be in contact with the flapper.
It doesn't need much spring pressure, just enough to return to flat.
You could you something like this, but make a different mount for the license plate.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Bike-LED-Stop-Tail-Turn-Signal-Brake-License-Plate-Integrated-Light-/181519580460?hash=item2a4368fd2c:g:7A8AAOSwRLZUDHd7&vxp=mtr
Regarding the exhaust stud issue, I would use parts from one of the other motors. In order to repair those stud mounts, you would probably want to remove the head and take it to a good machine shop to have welded up and redrilled.
Makes more sense to just use one you already have. One motor is...
Not sure what to believe about this one. Are those clubman handle bars?
What's up with the gold accents?
https://annarbor.craigslist.org/mcy/5917995252.html
I believe the self-centering action of the shifter happens from the spring at the lower part of the shift shaft. Make sure the shaft is centered around that pin.
I used a cbr1000rr kill switch. If a starter button and kill switch are all you need, this is factory Honda and fits the bill.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-10-Honda-CBR-1000-RR-Right-Control-Switch-Start-Stop-/381841343738?fits=Model%3ACBR1000RR&hash=item58e78484fa:g:v5oAAOSwo4pYEpEN&vxp=mtr
Put some fenders on it and a set of superbike bars.
That would make the seating more comfortable with the standard peg position.
The tires are a bit over the top, but I like it.
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