+1 to what ridesolo said... it's what I did with mine, and I'll tell you the 20 minutes I rode the bike without that while I was picking it up from the powdercoats was pretty sketchy. how on earth people ride without them is beyond me
Thanks Hurco! I just found and recieved a top triple clamp that will work (I have access to a vintage motorcycle salvage yard and am doing this entire build from there) so I just need to mock up the forks in the frame with a wheel and get the length that I will need to lower it - else I can just...
since they stay in place and the fork slides inside them, I think they are probably bronze - aluminium might work, provided the inside doesn't scratch up the fork tubes (shouldn't!)
Hurco, I could give you dimensions how much to turn some spacers?
I need a set of CB or CL 450 forks - K0 style external spring to cannibalize - the fork tubes can be bent, broken, rusty, the sleeves can be gouged, chopped, oxidized or even missing.
what I need are the internals - the guide pipe - part number 14 in the below diagram
you need the one pictured on the bottom.
no one mentions this when talking about the updated tensioner I had to find this out myself while in the shop putting the engine together which was very frustrating to know I had to wait an addition week to put it together for one tiny little part) (see...
When you updated the tensioner - did you also get the new style top tensioner retainer? the original type is not compatible with the new tensioners.
old style on top, new on bottom
Today I've taken apart the CL450 forks.
They are external spring forks and I am exploring lowering them.
Removing the internal damping rod was a pain, but I wanted to see how these forks worked, to ensure they can be "safely" lowered internally... I do believe I can make a spacer for them...
was able to acquire a second cam on ebay - mine was marginally worn
original cam on left - "new" cam on right.
the original cam has this groove and the numbers 10/3/1 on it ** the "new" cam has no groove and marked 6/6/1
both have the same measurements but the new cam is in much better...
working a little bit with the parts washer and got the parts looking much better!
will likely be blasting the barrels and sending the rest of to vapor blast. who knows
I've checked out the cam, it seams servicable
"fat cam" with 36.xx MM largest diameter on the lobes.
I THINK, this is the desirable "early" fat cam? (tach is the 10.5k redline version)
I was busy putting rockers/shafts in the appropriate bags to keep them together I have not yet inspected them...
every. single. JIS screw. was. stripped!
I have some sympathy... I am, after all, working on the patio in my back yard (no garage here!)
but hey... do it right may take some time like my last build. the end result will be worth it
this engine was recently "serviced" although I think they did the bare minimum of trying to hone the cylinders and call it good - the timing tensioner is seized and I'm guessing that resulted in THIS:
ignition timing was 90* off and that's probably why the bike was parked.
I have a tank from a Yamaha MX175 that is missing the cap - really no problem as the original caps are available. but I would like something "prettier" as in not plastic, and suited more for a cafe racer look, so metal ideally.
is there another bike with the same tank thread that will allow me...
Spent most of Monday doing frame modifications as per my usual. Still not sure where the project is going but at the moment - I might be moving this thread to the "bobber" section - we'll see
seam welding the frame - both for strength and for looks. looks how?
we'll I'm using a tank from a...
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