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I always thought a CB72 or CB77 would look much better as a 'mini' Laverda 750 as top end of motors are somewhat similar (Italians copying Japanese as they did with Bennelli 500F)

Few years ago I bought a set off eBay for $200 and they were a disaster, BUT, I really needed a set at the time so couldn't afford to wait for something better. Since then, I've had pretty good luck with 360 carbs at around $75.00. They have to be cleaned and modified so I don't worry about...

It's a direct fit but you have to use 550 sprocket as 650 has a 'Hy-Vo' cam chain . It's a bigger performance boost using complete 650 head but it looks kinda ugly. I sold the 650 cam I had several years ago as I would probably never use it and I have a PIPER performance cam I bought around...

You 'unscrew' the adjuster in chain cover to bring it closer to clutch push-rod then adjust cable. Part #127 (or #7) moves away from cover moving the entire operating mechanism. on 360, you can do the cable adjustment before fitting cover to bike . There is a cast 'pointer' inside cover that...

Motion pro cables were slightly short on the inner wire,(roughly the thickness of locknut) maybe they 'fixed' that problem but now it's too long?

It would also be a real good idea to check valve clearances. Alloy expands way more than steel so it could be close to burning out exhaust valves if they are too tight from lack of servicing. The valve clearance3s tighten up on shim/bucket motors when the valve head and seat wear. There is...

'105 secondaries, 68 primaries

The old R series BMW's are dead easy to service, almost like someone designed it that way/ :D The new 'high cam' models are a different matter though as they have some major electronics controlling just about everything.

Have you stripped calipers to check them? The pistons should be 'flush' with casting when fully retracted

That isn't even trying to 'grab' The only way to reverse it is if you completely dismantled it, removing the steel shield which is kinda difficult as it should be 'rolled over' at the edge. It's more likely the roller ramps are either worn or cracked, you'll have to pull rollers to check...

Yeah, shipping prices are crazy. I'll see if I can find one to measure actual thickness

Someone posted an SLI (3D print ?) file a few years ago to make a little bracket for rear carb support but even a piece of bent strap works. If they 'fell off' they were not fully inserted into manifolds though. You also NEED some form of fork brace, there is a dramatic loss of stability...

If you don't let drums get rusty so needing cleaning (and thinning liner/opening diameter), 1.5 mm of cast iron will last a few decades or couple hundred thousand miles of use

Oil filled coils should last way longer on a motorcycle as they are only firing at one quarter the rate of a car engine (for an inline 4) I use BSA/Triumph style as they are easy to get hold of and pretty cheap

I've made stepped studs for people, 8mm or even imperial sizes to fit into head and 6 or 8mm to keep exhaust flanges stock size (so you don't have odd size nuts :eek:

Wrap some masking tape (or even thin card) around the chrome and tighten a hose clamp onto it. You then have something to tap on to help loosen things up. Will probably need a few days soaking with release oil

It should be fine with stock jetting although you may need 105 secondaries. If it's too rich at low rpm, most likely cause is pilot jets or primary mains have been enlarged (oversize from 'cleaning'.) If I modify jets I always remove the numbers so there is no confusion 'down the line' but...

It's a thrust washer made from spring steel. Can't find one at present to measure thickness but I think it's 0.25mm/ (there are a couple of different thrust washers in transmission that can fit but thicknesses vary) Someone else will be along shortly to verify (Matt, Eric or Richard probably)...

Was asked to make a couple of spacers to mount footrest hanger on swing arm pivot bolt. As usual, couldn't leave well alone so instead of basic parallel 'lump', did some math and machined some angles so they have a taper. Took a guess at large size, small diameter is 30mm, centre hole 15mm...

If you have the 'straight' top holder it's the early style and should be changed. The 'cup' part will have the 'thin' side towards centre of engine