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Re: Suzuki gt185 color scheme. Purist? Hardly. Honestly I read these threads more for humor and entertainment than anything. Cafe the shit out of this bike! Make sure to check out the Rattle Can Bling thread to put that authentic garage built look on it too! [emoji38]

Tuneafish I always thought your name was music related but now I now it's because you have a smelly vagina.

Why would you want to chop up such a beautiful original bike? Why don't you keep that one original and find something beat to shit to build a cafe racer out of?

What's the big deal? A little hammer action, a little body filler, primer and paint. It's worth the effort.

Your cams were likely speced with a bit more lift than the other bikes were. It happens quite a bit in large production numbers. While it's usually not very much difference at all, if a set of cams in 1 bike were ground just a hair under spec, and another bike was just over factory spec, there...

That came out good, you did a good job spraying it. I think if one were to use a satin clear coat, you would end up with a more "raw" and "natural" finish. Just a thought. :)

Bare aluminum I would hit with etching primer first, paint tends to have difficulty sticking to bare aluminum unless it has a catalyst. Let the etch primer dry fully (usually about 2 hours) and then give it a quick scuff with a Scotch-Brite pad and hit it the epoxy paint like normal.

Conventional oil for the 1st 1000 miles. Don't exceed half throttle and 60% of redline for the first 500 miles, and always keep the rpms fluctuating. Do NOT hold any single RPM for any extended time, including idle. For the next 500 you can start getting on it, but keep it to 3/4 throttle or...

You must have done something wrong. I have never used any automotive 2K product that wasn't fully cured in 24 hours. The chrome foil thing you did looks good tho, nice work on that.

My vote is in! :)

$125 if pretty damn cheap to have a frame powder coated, I'd do that. But out of curiosity, did you even try getting the bike to run before you tore it down? I've seen a lot of people jump right in and tear everything apart before they even have a clue of what they need. They put the bike all...

Looking great! That is going to be so sick! :D

If you're blowing fuses, you are grounding out somewhere. You will need to trace your entire harness back until you find the break in the wires. Is it the original harness on the bike?

In a nut shell, it is a printed film. You lay it across a tank of water, spray activator on it and dip the part into the tank. The film transfers onto the part, rinse, dry and clear coat. It's really cool stuff, check it out! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSoiCo-lA

Wet sand with 800 and reclear.,

If it is removable paint marker, the easiest way to get it off without making a mess is to buff it off.

I have never touched ANY cleared surface with anything coarser than than 800 grit, and that is only to re-clear. If you're going to cut and buff, don't start with anything coarser than 1200. This is also why I won't shoot with rattle can, no control over air flow to prevent orange peel.

It's funny. So many customers cry about having to spend $1000 for a high quality paint job. Candy paint jobs are expensive because A - you have about $600 just in paint materials, B- it takes longer to actually paint than a regular paint job, and C - candies have to be done 100% perfect 100%...

You can use a Scotch-Brite to prep it, but you will want to nib out any dirt or runs. I would highly recommend NOT using W&GR in between as it may cause some reactive issues. In fact, I've pretty much stopped using it all together except for actual degreasing of stuff. I've switched over to...

No, you're good. Nason is really good single stage paint. I used it a lot on different industrial equipment at my first auto body job. I've painted brake presses, tractors, propane trucks, wheels, stock cars, and countless other stuff. Next day it was always good to be handled and assembled...