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PS: Thanks for your HELP BradJ!

With all the new paint and powder the coil bodies didn't have a good ground! Jumped a wire off them to the ground on the wiring harness and it runs perfectly!

My problem ended up being a worn oil pump that wouldn't pump the thin hot oil to the top of the motor. It destroyed the entire top end. I got that fixed struggled with the carbs a little and got it running great. I broke the bike down for powder and paint and now it's backfiring when you...

On second inspection its backfiring on the throttle up and feels a little sluggish with maybe a slight miss involved. Its not an exhaust leak because I sorted that today. The battery is new and I swapped the coils from one side to the other with no change. Anyone got any other ideas?

Thanks Gary! I'm just gonna start at the front and make sure the exhaust is sealed from front to back. When pulling my mufflers I noticed I still rock one the pipes on the head even though the clamp nuts are tight. Its not the side thats giving me the problem though. Is there anything wrong...

I think if i remember correctly (got tired of fooling with it and walked away) its when I let out of the throttle.

I carbs had a rebuild and were clean and running good. They sat on the counter for a couple of months while I did the other work. I don't understand if it is them how they got out of adjustment just sitting there. I did take the right one off and open it up and check just to make sure. Now the...

I recently did a top end rebuild on my 1970 Honda 350k. I Had it running great and then broke the bike down for powder and paint. I have it looking "PRETTY" again but it now is backfiring slightly on the right cylinder. I have already cleaned the plugs and points. Checked timing and the gaps. I...

Don't think so because I didn't even have the throttle cables hooked up and the screws were backed completely off. Both butterflies were completely closed and there was still that big of a difference in the air being pulled in to the cylinders. The carbs are now pulling the same air so tomorrow...

Brand new. And I swapped all the internals from the carb in question to a different one and it seems to function properly now. I will know more tomorrow when I can get time to mess with it some more.

Nope stock air filters.

Here's what I have discovered: I got to thinking that the air being pulled into the cylinders needs to be as balanced as possible form one side to the other. The right side that was reading 120lbs of compression with the bores closed must be wore out or cracked somewhere allowing that cylinder...

I've had them apart three times. They are clean and all passages are open. New diaphrams installed. Now I did notice the second time that the floats weren't set to the right height. I had them first set to a figure I found in an old clymer manual but found a differnet numert number in several...

Yes, Somethings wrong with one carb (I don't know which) Because one cylinder is pulling the other along at idle. you can pull off the plug wire on the cylinder with the lowest compression at idle and it will quit. If you pull off the other it continues to run. Its pulling more air and fuel on...

Sorry I failed to mention that my carbs are the CV type keihin's.

I have a 1970 cb350k twin with a fresh engine rebuild that I cant get to run "idle" correctly. First of all I know to check compresion with the bores open and both cylinders are close to 180. With the bores closed I have 60 out of the left and 120 on the right. The left cylinder exhaust runs...

So the compression in the cylinders is fine! I forgot to open the bores when I did the checks. Now I have a another question. With the bores closed I have 60lb in the left and 120lb in the right. Bores open I have 180 in both. Why is that and is this why the left cylinder is fouling plugs...

For what its worth while I had the head off I propped it up so I could fill the inside on top of the valve with some wd40 and let it sit for a hour or so and then looked to see if any leaked out on the bottom of the valves. I did both the intake and exhaust with no leakage.

teazer: I'm sure I follow what your trying to tell me to do with my compressor. My tester threads in and the guage disconnects with an air fitting. So can you explain (I can be kinda slow sometime) a little better. Are you telling me to connect this hose to my compressor and pressurize the cylinder?

Valves were my thought when I first noticed the loss of comperssion and checked that before I broke it down this last time. I will recheck them tomorrow and recheck the compression tomorrow. I'll post the results. Thanks for the time and advice! Lynn