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Is anybody out there? I'm testing my coils now, they are new Mike's XS 4 ohm (primary) units. I believe the secondary winding on the left coil is bad. Anybody know what is spec for that resistance? left primary = 4.1 ohm secondary = 2,240 ohm right primary = 4.0 ohm secondary = 8,160 ohm

So- the washer was not an issue. It keeps the advance unit in place but does not bind the points cam no matter how wide. The screw holding everything down, however, was grinding on the points cover. So I ran tests without the points cover on, and no different. Now it seems the left cylinder...

I realize I'm not getting any replies until tomorrow... but more info is good for posterity. Below is an image of the surface I nicked. The advance cam rotates on this... but its not the surface that the points ride on, so I'm fairly confident in still using it at this point. I've sanded and...

Update- Got my brand spanking NOS advance unit off with vicegrips and a piece of leather- still nicked the cam surface. asdflkjsdflksjdf Can I solder or JB weld the nicks and sand/polish smooth? Really don't want to buy another NOS advance. I could've bought an electric unit for all the money...

Another note- I really don't want to pry this thing off with a flathead. I did that with the original advance unit on the first rebuild, and it came out in pieces. The new one, however, came out smoothly during this most recent rebuild, which was yesterday.

I just rebuilt the top end a week ago. Bike was running perfectly, but leaking oil behind the cam boxes. Probably 2 miles on the engine since I assembled it, just test runs. I took the top end apart again yesterday to use thicker gaskets and eliminate the cam box leak. I had to unbolt the cam...

What about my procedure above makes you concerned about that? Genuinely curious. Seems if the "L" line on the cam sprocket matches with "LT" on the alternator, piston to valve contact isn't possible. Am I missing something?

Copy you guys. Honestly, I couldn't get the end housings on otherwise. I was gentle with the mallet, but even then it was tight. I had the valves adjusted as loosely as possible, and the cam chain tensioner off... what should be done to get them on more easily? Also, I notched my frame...

Or more importantly to me right now- any danger of it not ending up timed correctly? I assumed that the LF mark on any rotation could match the "L" line on the cam sprocket. The method of finding TDC on the exhaust stroke (in the manual) obviously made no difference when turning the crank...

You don't have to be sorry- knackering what parts? Anything I should check out?

Ok- for posterity- If the points won't open, matching "LF" on your generator, in the adjustable range of your points plate- your cam is out of sync with your crank. This means jumping teeth on the cam chain that runs through the top cover. Getting to the top cover means removing all your...

I've removed all the bolts but one, and it won't clear. The final bolt is the bottom rear near the brake pedal, and you can't remove that one without removing the brake pedal itself and all of its connected bits. Seriously Honda? Again, its like 1/2 a mm from clearing. Sorry to vent, it just...

It doesn't line up on the mark on any of the rotations. I wouldve pulled the plugs to find TDC, but I knew it didn't matter. I didn't take apart my cam, so I know that if its off, its only a tooth or two, no chance of it being 180 out. On the rotation where the points open (I know my advancer...

Thank you- copy that. Will report back.

So how can I remedy? Do pull the side boxes off and try to get it to jump in the other direction (assuming I can figure out which way that is)?

This topic was never updated with a solution, come on OP! I'm facing the same problem. Lets solve this once more for myself and posterity. Using a test light for static timing, I have to rotate about 1" past the LF or F mark for the points to open, even if I advance the points plate all the...