About to torn the motor open

The air jets are only going to make a difference from about 1/2 throttle to WOT.

I think you're trying to do too much at once.

Get the idle and off-idle dialed in before messing with too much else. That's only the pilot jets and air screw.

First air screws:
With the bike warmed up, set the idle speed to around 1200 RPM. Turn the air screws in and out about half a turn at a time until the bike reaches maximum RPM. Dial idle back down to 1000 RPM and repeat the adjustment.

Now pilot jets:
With idle speed adjusted, blip the throttle. Response should be immediate. If not, you're likely too lean. If you're getting any black smoke or the exhaust sounds "tinny" then you may be too rich. Take the bike onto the road at 20mph in third gear. You should be able to hold this speed without making any throttle adjustments. If you need to adjust the throttle to hold speed, you're still too small on the pilots.
 
The bleed type uses round head jets, primary choke uses hex head. (different thread pitch)
Go down to a 105/110 jet with bleed type
 
It's slightly more nuanced than that. For example Bleed types 175, 176 and 284 use hex and 338 use round.

On Primary needle jets 159, 166 and 169 use hex but 188 and 196 Primary use round jets

In this case we're talking Hex in both, so that jet sizes are not an issue in the way that they would be with a change from hex to round. Hex jets are flow rated and round jets are diameter (so double the size = 4x as much gas)
 
Jramos13 said:
ok so i have my CL350 finally running good, idling properly and synced with no smoke at all, i have a pair of VM28's,

currently i have:

15 pilot jets,
130 mains
175 -P4 needle jet
5F21 needle (in the second from the top)
Air jet removed
air screw 2 1/4 out

its feels good but when i check the plug it was very sooty black but not wet after a ride around the block, and it smoke heavy black only at 1200 rpm, once i accelerated it stopped smoking but smokes again at idle speed, also the carbs got really cold with condensation

The dyno should help to get the correct main jets. you should also be able to see the idle, low speed and mid throttle fuel rates on the screen. When the main jets are correct, ask the dyno guy to do a run at 1/4 throttle, another at 1/2 throttle and one at 3/4 throttle and look t the air:fuel ratios on each run.

That will indicate which "circuit" is too rich or lean. Often the slides are the wrong cutaway and have to be changed to get the bottom end clean.

#15 pilots are very small. Are they new jest or "pre-loved"? Always use new jets or at least jets that you have owned since new and know are good.

Get idle right first and then just off idle ( as you crack it open) and then main jets. After that needles and cutaway.
 
hmm that main jet thing got me confused, im using the same size main jet that i use with the other needle jet, it screwed in just fine, so thats not the one i should is? its part number 4/042, i found a pick up truck to take the bike to a dyno on monday finally! its a well known reputable place in the island, they do lots of custom things, like turbos and stuff on bikes, lets see what happens, because like sonreir said, im doing to many stuff at once and i really dont have the knowledge to deal with carbs, i've never work with a carbs before in my life
 
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