Another build thread? Why the fuck not! KZ650 daily driver build.

This is what Z1 sells for it, should have looked there first I guess. I'm sure there is a $20+ markup on it there, but it would be correct. https://www.z1enterprises.com/regulator-rectifier-kz650-b1-c1-xs650.html


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Was messing with the rectifier and pulled one of the connectors out of it. Guess there is no going back now. Will either need to get the correct Oregon one that looks like a spaceship or the Z1 unit but I need it asap


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Got some stuff coming from Oregon electric, the big news is this bad boy finally got here.


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Looking for a little advice on carb cleaning. During cold start with the choke on it revs to like 8k if I go part choke the idle goes down but I have to keep playing with it as it warms up to keep running. During this time throttle is a mess, it'll die or it'll go up and not come down. Once it's finally warm, it runs fine. These carbs have the plunger choke so there is a separate air/fuel to richen the mix independent of the standard fuel. My thought is that the air circuit is working but the fuel circuit is not on some of the carbs, really leaning the shit out of some of them causing out of sync and lean issues.

Now, I've never had to clean or care about this before so I'm really not sure what I should be looking for. I've pulled the plungers, blew on what I thought might be something and everything seems fine. Time to find someone that knows. Posting up on here first but I'll get this up on kzrider tomorrow when I'm at a computer if no one is sure.


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did it run like this after you pulled the plungers?
 
The port in the bowls where the brass tube goes into is where the choke sources fuel. They have a tendency to get overlooked when cleaning and can block easily. Make sure they are clean as well as the tubes.
 
Stupid question but have you tried to sync the carbs yet? I say this because when I first built mine the idle liked to fluctuate on its own. Once I got the engine warm and got it idling the best I could... I synced them... then was able to get a clean idle/throttle. After that set the AF mixture and you should be set. If the problem continues it's essential IMO to replace the following:
- Intake Manifolds
- AF mixture screw O-Rings
- Choke Plunger O-Rings and top seal.


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doc_rot said:
did it run like this after you pulled the plungers?
Click to expand...

I had not pulled the plugers when I took them apart last time. So I cant say yet if pulling them and putting them back will have made a difference.

hillsy said:
The port in the bowls where the brass tube goes into is where the choke sources fuel. They have a tendency to get overlooked when cleaning and can block easily. Make sure they are clean as well as the tubes.
Click to expand...

I cleaned them out this time but they SEEMED fine. I didn't last time so we will see if that makes a difference

SrgtBear said:
Stupid question but have you tried to sync the carbs yet? I say this because when I first built mine the idle liked to fluctuate on its own. Once I got the engine warm and got it idling the best I could... I synced them... then was able to get a clean idle/throttle. After that set the AF mixture and you should be set. If the problem continues it's essential IMO to replace the following:
- Intake Manifolds
- AF mixture screw O-Rings
- Choke Plunger O-Rings and top seal.
Click to expand...

I have not tried to sync them yet, my idle issue ONLY occurs while choked, which is why im pretty sure it has to do with the choke circuits. Once its warmed up and the choke is off, the idle is spot on. I will sync them, but I dont think thats what my current issue is. I did spray the intake boots and all around the carbs with carb cleaner to check for leaks/cracks and I didn't notice anything. O-Rings on the plungers look nice, tops look nice too.. again, I would have expected some change when i sprayed them with carb cleaner if there was a leak. I could be off with some of this as I really dont know much about the choke circuit on these carbs but those were my thoughts while going through it.

So, if I can blow through the long tube that sticks down without issue, the little hole in the bottom of the float bowl is clear, the seals around the plungers seems ok. Is there anything else in the circuit I should check/clean before I put it back together again and see if the problem persists? is there some internal passage that I need to check?
 
SrgtBear said:
If you can post a video that would be super helpful in diagnosing.
Click to expand...

I'll get them back on tonight, likely fire it up tomorrow and i can take some video if its still all jacked up.
 
Picked up this $22 chinesium wind screen, we will see how well it works and holds up. Should take a pic with the turn signal not all wonky


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