brazing questions

R

rustreddesign

Been Around the Block
To actuate the brake light with my new rearsets, I am planning on using a brake cable / housing from a bicycle. To accomplish this, I will need to braze some cable guides and ferruls onto my frame. Problem is, I have never brazed anything before. I do have access to an oxy/acetaline rig, but can I get away with a mapp gas torch and plumbing solder or will this not be strong enough. If I go the oxy/acetaline route, where is the best place to get a small amount of brazing rod? I only plan on doing a couple of these so I don't want to spend money on something I will not ever use again. BTW, I have done a little research, but sometimes it's easier to just throw something out to you guys and get a knowlegable answer. Thanks guys.
 
Youll definately need to braze. Soldering is good for cosmetics, but lack in strength for structural things. Good news is, if you have access to acetylene, the rest is cheap and fairly easy. You'll need brazing rod (ive used a metal coathanger before) and some brazing flux. Make sure the area is clean and free of grease. Sand the surfaces to rough them up and apply a light coat of brazing flux to both surfaces. *note, solder flux and brazing flux are two completely different things.

Place the two items together and heat the, up lightly touching the tip of your brazing rod to the heated section till the rod melts. Dont use too much rod (insert joke here). You may want to practise a few times before going all in. drop me a note if you have any other questions about brazing. It's an art form of sorts.

Cheers n Beers
 
solid! where do you find your brazing rods there are a ton of diff ones at ace! how do you knwo what to use?
 
I prefer to use a 3/16 flux coated brazing rod, I buy them at the local auto or welding supply shop. they are less than $10 for a 36" rod.
You'll need Oxy acc and practice with like metals at first, then try thin to thicker, as cable clip to frame will be.
With all welding cleanliness is next to godliness the cleaner the better.
A little bit of the morning shakes will actually help with puddle forming, but watch out the brass will follow the heat, capilary attraction. a good thing and a bad thing.
 
I was told that you can use map gas as well... ihave the oxy in the shop but we are building a roll cage right now for a race car so i was just going ot use map gas... have some un even spots on a fender i need to smooth out and the powder i am using needs 400* to bake... around 425 solder will start to get weird but brazing is good to 475 so that is what i was gonna go with... what do you sugest for fenders? type of flux and brazing... sorry i just watn to get the right stuff first... i have used solder to fix stuff a ton of times but never brazed this big of an area just pin holes mainly
 
It depends on the metal your brazing to. If the metal is thicker like on a frame, I would use acetylene. As mentioned, you can get brazing rod with the flux already on the rod, it's a matter of preference and availability I guess. As for the size, the best rule of thumb is the smaller the joint, the smaller the rod. Silfos stuff is pretty good.

Greasy Peace.
 
pin holes and very thin stuff I wouldn't hit with to much heat period and I'm not a big fan of Bronze for body work.
I would use a 1/16th steel rod and drip it onto the parent metal. For practice we used to steel weld the lids on to tobacco cans.

If doing an area that can warp easily keep a bucket of cold water with a rag in it. cool the heated area imediatly after the metal bonds, take easy and go slow.
 
no what i have to braze is the back of a HD fender... i used a filler on it, worked great till the last bake in the oven... then it released and ruined the whole thing! sucks! i just need somethign that can take 400* in the oven... have used solder but you can not really do that for multi bakes... i have to bake this sucker 3 times at 400* for 45 min a cycle... needs to be brazed... welded up the tail section of the fender and just want to have it perfect smooth before i have at it again with coating... it has already cost me a ton in materials and overhead i do not want to go any deeper in on this...
after the welding was done it still is not perfect (would be good for a flat but not for a ultr gloss)


t6oso2.jpg


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it came out great after the base coat the first time (i used a powdercoating filler i have never used before) made it through the primer stage, and the base coat but then after the clear it could nto take the heat
look how good it looked b 4 clear
lrg-688-smooooooth_rear_fender.JPG
 
Ya that wouldn't work very good try the bronze or the new metal glues they use in the bodyshops now, I'm haven't used them yet or know if they are good for the heat.

ya looked great before.

Aaron
 
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